Winter Climbing in New Mexico

Hey! So I’m going to be in NM for about a month from mid dec- mid Jan and was wondering if there were any places good for winter climbing other than box canyon. If so please let me know! Thanks so much! Climb on my dudes 

I'm going to be north of Santa Fe Dec. 18-24 if anyone wants to climb.

The Sandias are the best in the winter!! Excellent alpine style climbing on classic trad routes!! Plus this year there is actually just enough snow to make it even more fun and epic depending on the route! Bring a good clothes and jacket, maybe some microspikes, some munchies and water and your good to go!

Guess i should add a good partner and snow shoes. Some of the best times I've had out there are during the winter, and most of the routes are just fine. the approach through the snow is half the fun. I've done tombstone, crackula, miss piggy, estrellita, gemstone and a few others during the winter and had a blast. I'd say if you like alpine style climbing, don't mind getting a little cold, and you have a good partner go have some fun. I do agree not the best for someone not familiar with the route location, and horrible for someone looking to stay away from the snow, but the sandias cannot be left out as a fun winter location if that is your style.

It is "Estrellita."

oops, thanks. fixed.

I did the NW ridge of the Thumb in the Sandias in winter (with crampons), and it ranks as the most miserable climb of my 700+ ascents. The only Great place in New Mexico to climb in the winter is the Organ Mtns at Las Cruces.  Lee Davis

Last Chance = Thumbs Up!

White Rock, Socorro, Last Chance/Sitting Bull, Hueco Tanks, Organs/Rough & Readies and Bat Cave were my go to winter areas. I've frozen my ass off on in the Sandias in the middle of summer in the shade when it got windy thus it never once occurred to me to climb in the Sandias in the winter. I would avoid Sandias, Jemez crags and El Rito unless expected to be on the sunny and warmer side. My 2 centavos.

Actually, the sunny side of The Tunnel is spectacular on a cold and sunny winter day, and maybe one of favorite NM crags period for limestone sport climbing. On a 45 degree day you'll be running around in boxer shorts. Gets sun ALL day. 

bruno-cx wrote: NM is great in the winter Diablo, White Rock, Taos, the foothills bouldering ABQ, Roy bouldering, and even Los Conchas.  What are you looking to climb and where you are located?

I’m currently building my trad rack (I have .4-2  and I plan on getting a 3 before I go out there) so preferably sport. I’ll also be in Albuquerque. I’m from NM originally but I’ve moved to NYC so I’m always itching to climb when I come home. I just never climbed in the winter lol I just stuck to the gym like a chump 

Thanks for everyone’s replies! Don’t hesitate to post more! I’ll be in NM from dec 21-Jan 24 in the abq area if anyone wants to climb hmu!!! I only have one belay partner out there so it’d be great to know more people! 

OK... I just have to speak up. I am from Albuquerque, and so I have done a lot of backpacking and climbing in the Sandias. Holidays during the winter would find me there, so the climbing beckoned .Did the knife edge of the shield in deep snow, The Crest (tram top) to South peak in a blizzard (Fun!), and the NW ridge of the Thumb in winter with Reed Cundiff. On that climb I had my Grivel crampons and put them to good use. 2/3rds of the way up, I was suffering from the cold and so Reed suggested we stop for a bit. He pulled out a thermos of hot buttered rum and revived me! Finished the climb in fine style, no thanks to my long fingers. When we got to the top, we hiked to the Crest, called our pickup ride, and I remember the wait on the top for the ride to arrive as the biggest ordeal. Still have my Terray parka.

George Perkins wrote:

Really? I'm no "local", but I'd consider the Sandias to be among the least dependable "winter areas" in the state.  I've had some great days climbing there in the winter, postholing to my knees, but most of the time it is not "good to go".  Pretty much any other area will be 20 degrees warmer, less windy, and less snowy.  It can be okay, nice, and quite pretty on the 20% of the days that are warmest and sunniest, and most cliffs dry out within a few days after the last snow.  Additionally, a climber unfamiliar with the approaches should anticipate being even more confused trying to find them when they're covered in snow for anything that's not just off the La Luz. 

Here's a webcam showing current conditions: http://sandiapeak.com/index.php?page=ski-cam Looks nice on camera today, but if the forecasted 35 mpg wind gusts this afternoon kick in, it won't be fun.

I agree with George. The Sandias can be good in the winter on the right day. Most of the time it is not the right day. 

How’s the road into Last Chance?
Usually drivable in a minivan?
Or highly conditions dependent?
Looking for warm limestone for January/February. 

New Mexico sucks, there is no good weather period. Try Arizona or Nevada. 

Mark E Dixon wrote: How’s the road into Last Chance?
Usually drivable in a minivan?
Or highly conditions dependent?
Looking for warm limestone for January/February. 

It is conditions dependent. If dry, it would be fine, if wet, 4wd is required. Also, it is at relatively high altitude, and is often VERY windy in the winter/spring, so conditions can be quite grim given the right weather system. 

Didn't want to make a new thread but can someone confirm camping around Pena Blanca is allowed? Everything I've found saying yes is a few years old. Trying to spend New Years in the Organ Mtns area. Thanks!