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El potrero Chico.

Original Post
Cris Garcia · · Michigan · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 42

Have any of you ever been to El Potrero Chico? I have an opportunity to go this New Years for a week but don’t know what to expect or what it’ll be like. I hear it’s all sport pretty much. I’ve also never climbed multi pitch however the people I’m going with do. I think it’s a rather easy thing to learn to be fair. What are some classics or must do’s if there is any.

Cris Garcia · · Michigan · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 42

Care to explain? Just bad climbing or what’s up?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Cris Garcia wrote: Have any of you ever been to El Potrero Chico? 

No.

Cris Garcia · · Michigan · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 42
FrankPS wrote:

No.

Thank you. Very helpful lol

garrett K · · salt lake city · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 179

If you do your research on multipitch climbing before going (to the point that you know what your doing for the most part) you'll have a wonderful time. Its supposed to be really good climbing if sport climbing is your thing. 

Cris Garcia · · Michigan · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 42
garrett knorr wrote: If you do your research on multipitch climbing before going (to the point that you know what your doing for the most part) you'll have a wonderful time. Its supposed to be really good climbing if sport climbing is your thing. 

I have a pretty good idea of how to multi pitch it seems really common sense I just live in Michigan so the highest point in the lower peninsula is the top of my van so I haven’t actually got to try it haha 

LB Edwards · · Austin, TX · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 216

Never been to EPC but done the research and plan to go in 2019. I also just came back from Mexico City so kinda close enough to throw my 2 cents since you're only going to get the usual trolls in here for the first couple posts.

There are single pitch routes but the bread and butter of EPC are the multi-pitches. Just have a PAS system dialed in and work on your rope management if you plan on leading. If you are already up to snuff on cleaning anchors and rappelling then you should be fine. It helps that you are going with friends that know what to do, but be sure to know what to expect so you can double check your friend's setups.

Hidalgo seems like a pretty chill town, they are welcoming to travelers coming their. Right outside the entrance of the park are a bunch of campsites and houses to rent. If it's anything like other parts of Mexico it helps to know Spanish and do not drink the tap water.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Cris Garcia wrote: Care to explain? Just bad climbing or what’s up?

That 1/10 means he thinks you're trolling the forum, and at a very low trolling quality level.

Jeff Goulet · · Saint-Félicien, QC · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 3

Potrero chico is a great place to learn multipitch climbing, it's all on bolt, the routefinding is straightfoward and there is commonly 3 bolts at the anchor to ease tethering to the anchor and rope handling. I went there in 2012 and at the time I had zero multipitch experience, but like you I had a partner who knew what he was doing. I did my first two pitch climb the first day and at the end of the week we did a 15 pitchs route. The town of hidalgo is a nice and safe and the water is good the campgrounds have clean water that you can safely drink. It's also good to know that Potrero chico has "vacation grades" ! 

z t · · Spokane, WA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,197

EPC is sweet! There's a load of long moderate multi-pitches that your friends can teach you on. Really good single pitch sport climbing, check out the Outrage wall. 

I would recommend renting a Casa de Wero, or staying at La Pasada. Check this site for the classic routes, they are all good.

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

Actually, although there are many
multipitch classics there, the majority of the routes at EPC consist of single pitch cragging. 

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Just got back from there about 2 1/2 weeks ago.  It's some amazing quality limestone.  I might be out there again at the same time as you.  Def work on leg cardio, the multipitch is mostly slabby.  If you are a solid 10-11 sport lead you should be able to attempt most multipitch out there.  Also i highly recommend one or more in your group takes a self rescue course before going.  I had a stuck rope on Spaceboyz and those skills really came in handy.

Jeff Luton · · It's complicated · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 5
Goulet Goulet wrote: Potrero chico is a great place to learn multipitch climbing, it's all on bolt, the routefinding is straightfoward and there is commonly 3 bolts at the anchor to ease tethering to the anchor and rope handling. I went there in 2012 and at the time I had zero multipitch experience, but like you I had a partner who knew what he was doing. I did my first two pitch climb the first day and at the end of the week we did a 15 pitchs route. The town of hidalgo is a nice and safe and the water is good the campgrounds have clean water that you can safely drink. It's also good to know that Potrero chico has "vacation grades" ! 

Holy shit it’s the answer of the year

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Ohh also beware of sandbagged 5.8 pitches.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669
Christopher Smith wrote: Ohh also beware of sandbagged 5.8 pitches.

I would say handicapped. As in, "That was a 5.8, if I was handicapped by 2 of those giant margaritas".

K wab · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined May 2016 · Points: 50

Yes 

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669
Briggs Lazalde wrote:

Not drinking the 2 giant margaritas would induce the handicap. By drinking them you have planned and prepared like a true pro.

OP: prepare to party.

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 55
Goulet Goulet wrote: The town of hidalgo is a nice and safe and the water is good the campgrounds have clean water that you can safely drink. It's also good to know that Potrero chico has "vacation grades" ! 

I gotta imagine that drinking the water would probably be the riskiest thing he could do there. I NEVER drink tap water in mexico, not even in the resorts, not to brush my teeth, not ice cubes in a drink, no fresh veggies like lettuce, tomatoes, onions, nothing that touches the water and I have never had the gut issues my wife has every time we go on vacation.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

From what I remember, the water is pretty good. I think it's sourced from the creek that comes outta the canyon itself.

What's the guidebook say?

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

Spring water. Fine to drink. 

Cron · · Maine / NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 60

Water is legit. Driving there from the airport is easily the most dangerous aspect of an EPC trip.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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