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North Col
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Nov 29, 2018
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Toronto, CA
· Joined Jan 2018
· Points: 0
Hi guys,
It seems like the clove hitch is the answer to almost everything. I was messing around with the below equalette, but i guess theres no point for any directional fig 8 or alpine butterfly to connect to any of the biners, because you might as well have the adjustability and ease of use from the clove. Theres only 1 alpine butterfly below but id do all three, kind of a pain to “equalize” but whatever. Mabye do the two right butterflies and the one left a clove?
If this anchor was taking multi directional forces would it be better to tie with alpine butterflies? This would be assuming the protection was placed with multi directional forces in mind as well. Can a clove withstand being loaded multi directionally? I hope i am saying that right. The clove just works for so many climbing applications i am finding, I am guessing this is the knot to learn to tie with both hands, one handed, eyes closed etc. lolThanks Colin
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Jon Rhoderick
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Nov 29, 2018
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Redmond, OR
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 966
The pieces need to be multidirectional. The knot will 99% of the time only be pulled in one direction: from the pieces to the master point. An upward, downward or lateral force to your anchor would still create the same direction pull on the knots. So cloves are fine, the main drawback is that they can be tough to get off carabiners.
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Greg D
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Nov 30, 2018
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Here
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 883
This is a good use of cloves. They will not have an issue if the direction of loading changes. A butterfly would not be as practical here, but would work. For tying into the middle of the rope a butterfly is great, a clove would not be as practical.
Btw, cloves are easy to untie, even after loaded. Just roll it back an forth to loosen it.
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FrankPS
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Nov 30, 2018
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
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David Arredondo
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Nov 30, 2018
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Austin, TX
· Joined Apr 2017
· Points: 15
Cloves are a great knot, especially for anchors. To give you extra confidence in them, know that some people rope solo with a clove hitch on a biner as the “belay device”.
Also, clove hitch’s are the easiest (bomber) climbing knot to untie.
So yes: Just clove it.
Aside: My partner once made a three piece equalized anchor using just the climbing rope and clove hitches.
PS you can save yourself a shit load of hassle if you just use a cordellete.
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Gumby King
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Nov 30, 2018
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The Gym
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 52
Note your Master Point isnt exactly redundant in the photo (unless you're clipping to both biners?). Either way, I would make one of the center strands a Sliding-X for redundancy at the Master Point.
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Jim Titt
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Nov 30, 2018
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Germany
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 490
Here´s a tip;- "Don´t overthink it". I´ve been climbing for over 50 years, I´m also an instructor and I also know more about "equalising" belays than anyone else on earth (a somewhat sad claim to fame I´ll admit). I´ve never used anything else than a clove on the pieces with the rope. I´ve never used or felt the need to use a cordalette (or it´s equivalents) except for building instructional top-roping belays where the climbing rope isn´t available. Forget the sliding rubbish, just tie a big knot as a masterpoint and adjust the cloves on the pieces, the force is nearly always downwards and if it isn´t your sliding setup wouldn´t help one bit. I´ve never tied an Alpine Butterfly and wouldn´t know how to, a completely superflous knot in my opinion.
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North Col
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Nov 30, 2018
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Toronto, CA
· Joined Jan 2018
· Points: 0
Cory F wrote: Note your Master Point isnt exactly redundant in the photo (unless you're clipping to both biners?). Either way, I would make one of the center strands a Sliding-X for redundancy at the Master Point. Hi yes id clip into both biners, i have the doible biner in my mind from practicing my toprope anchors! Thanks
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