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Bicep tenodesis procedure for a labrum tear - field reports?

Original Post
Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

I've found a few posts on MP, but I need more beta :)

Anyone out there who has had a bicep tenodesis procedure for a labrum tear?  I'm going on 50 years old, climbing for 30 of them, and hope to get another 30 years out of this shoulder.  

Seems us "older folk" may do better with a tenodesis procedure rather than a classic repair?   I'm not asking to be a 5.13 sport climber in the future ('cause I've never been!)... but I do want to climb 5.10 trad until they bury me.

Harald Swen · · Oisterwijk · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

Had one (+rotator cuff surgery+minor detail) 2 years ago @44 after 20 years of morebless constant shoulder/biceps pain. Best decision ever. 5.13 climber before and after, but without the pain now :-) Underestimated the pain - it hurt like hell for 6 weeks after surgery. 6 months no climbing, 6 months getting back into shape. As a result of lifting all the heavy stuff (kids) with one arm after surgery the other biceps stated to hurt which set me back another year. Painfree after 21.5 years since april. Could finally start training. Hallelujah!

Can’t agree with previous poster over the hamstring vs. shoulder surgery comparison. The hamstring tear (seriously big one) ff-ing hurt, but was bearable. Drove home after bouldering myself. Shoulderpain wasn’t bearably for a month, even with morphine. Really surprised pain could be that intense. Probably made it worse by going to the office three days after surgery. Fun times... ;-)

Lzpup Brewster · · North Bend, Wa · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 40

Rotator cuff (full tear) and tenodesis 6 months ago (47). Just getting back in the gym , did my first 5.8 in a while. Happy with the surgery, bicep pain gone and I could not have lived with the tear. I did an easy ridge climb just before the surgery and it reminded me , there was no way I could have climbed like that. My surgeon is a huge fan of the tenodesis, says it is actually stronger then the way nature attached it. It is a long recovery, PT is critical and pay it pays to be cautious in not over doing it. I feel like is is really reasonable to think you will get back to the 5.10, I hope to get to 5.11 trad some day :). Not getting fat was a challenge :)

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,667

Another biceps tenodesis here, 3years ago (early 40s), and my husband had one a year before me. Great results for both of us, shoulders good as new, same climbing ability level now as it was before surgery.

I started climbing 3months post surgery, got back to pre-surgery redooint level 7 months after surgery.  My husband took about 5 months before starting climbing, and took longer to get to before-surgery level. In a large part due to big weight gain while recovering. (Don’t do the weight gain thing!)

Tom Hickmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 35

Tore my labrum and rotator cuff about ten years ago (I was 45). Took about a year for 100 percent recovery. Hasn't been any problem since.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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