Mountaineering Tent

Hey,

I am looking for a four-season tent, and am just getting into mountaineering. What would you guys recommend that is lightweight but has enough protection for most lower 48 climbs. Also, can I expect to use the same tent for say Rainier for larger expeditions and higher peaks down the road?

Basically what tents do you use for what?

-Thanks 

in the realm of 4 season tents and mountaineering you have two categories:
 
Alpine Tents
light n fast, lightweight, easy to setup, small footprint, smaller platform you need to shovel out of snow, cramped inside, single walled, condensation will build up, weighs ~2 pounds
Usually used on Rainier. The Cassin Ridge of Denali
BD Firstlight, MHW Dierk,

Expedition Tents
spacious, larger footprint, heavy, better in heavy wind, weighs 7+ pounds
Usually used on trips where carrying the extra weight doesn't matter, West Buttress of Denali

I’d check out the North Face Assault 2 or 3 (three is bigger, obviously). I’ve used it in Alaska and the Himalayas. It’s a single wall tent, but more robust than the BD Firstlight...bigger too. If you were only going for one...I’d highly recommend that one! Still light, but lots more headroom than the first light. Plus it has a really nice detachable vestibule

Black Diamond Firstlight is light and robust enough for the lower 48.

Ethan Turan wrote: Hey,

I am looking for a four-season tent, and am just getting into mountaineering. What would you guys recommend that is lightweight but has enough protection for most lower 48 climbs. Also, can I expect to use the same tent for say Rainier for larger expeditions and higher peaks down the road?

Basically what tents do you use for what?

-Thanks 

For camp: MH Trango 4 + Hyperlight Mountain Gear Mid for the Cooktent.  This system worked well in places like Greenland and Denali.

I've also used the MHW Direct (Cassin Ridge) and the BD Firstlight on other alpine objectives.

Thanks for the advice! The fact that the first light isn't completely waterproof scares me. Is that unjustified? Also, how would you compare the BD Firstlight, BD Eldorado, and North Face Assult? Is the Eldorado overkill?

The BD Eldo would not be overkill and would last you many years on many climbs. As with many of these tents make sure you fit. I have used an Eldo and I tent but like the Ahwanhee because it is slightly larger.

If you decide you want a single wall tent have a look at the Rab Latok Mountain 2. Bigger and more waterproof than the Firstlight, lighter than the Eldo. eVent breathes pretty well as single wall stuff goes. I think it's the ideal compromise, but I'm also biased because I can't fit in all the little 3lb models (Firstlight, Direkt, Advance). 

Let me be the contrarian. Do you actually need a 4 season tent at this time? If your climbs are summer climbs in the cascades then the answer is probably not. The 4 season tent will be a bit more robust and more importantly able to handle a significant snow load.

Jake Laba wrote: Let me be the contrarian. Do you actually need a 4 season tent at this time? If your climbs are summer climbs in the cascades then the answer is probably not. The 4 season tent will be a bit more robust and more importantly able to handle a significant snow load.

I haven't spent much time in the Cascades, but the June night I spent at Schurman I definitely needed my 4 season tent. They recorded 70mph winds at Muir and it was snowing sideways. YMMV. 

Jake Laba wrote: Let me be the contrarian. Do you actually need a 4 season tent at this time?

Me too.
Anyway if you're just starting w mountaineering, why would you think you're ready to handle "4th season" weather anyway?

Better when starting to learn to be humble and responsive with plans + goals for a serious mountain. If it's not favorable weather for a 3-season tent, just go rock-climbing that weekend.

The point is not to "conquer" the mountain, Not to prove that you can force your itinerary onto whatever nature throws at you.

No point in purchasing an "expedition" tent until you know what kind of expedition you really want to try. And then likely your partners (more impt for mountaineering than equipment) already own a suitable tent.

Ken

kenr wrote: Me too.
Anyway if you're just starting w mountaineering, why would you think you're ready to handle "4th season" weather anyway?

Better when starting to learn to be humble and responsive with plans + goals for a serious mountain. If it's not favorable weather for a 3-season tent, just go rock-climbing that weekend.

The point is not to "conquer" the mountain, Not to prove that you can force your itinerary onto whatever nature throws at you.

No point in purchasing an "expedition" tent until you know what kind of expedition you really want to try. And then likely your partners (more impt for mountaineering than equipment) already own a suitable tent.

Ken

I disagree, I would say one of the most important skills in mountaineering is learning how to be comfortable camping in winter conditions. The majority of your time spent in the greater ranges is going to be in the tent anyways. Figuring out how to be comfortable in the winter is going to be just as valuable as any technical climbing skills you're going to learn.

Jake Laba wrote: Let me be the contrarian. Do you actually need a 4 season tent at this time? If your climbs are summer climbs in the cascades then the answer is probably not. The 4 season tent will be a bit more robust and more importantly able to handle a significant snow load.

I totally understand that you´re saying; however, I am taking the alpinism 1 course with AAI, and it requires a tent. I do a significant amount of non-mountain winter camping in about as bad of winter conditions you can get outside of a mountain, and sometimes my current tents aren't cutting it.

One thing to keep in mind is the social aspect of having a two-man tent.  You're going to be in that tent a lot, at night, in shitty weather when you can't sleep.  It's nice to have a tent big enough for two people so you can play cards, shoot the shit, and plan your next day out.  For instance, I recently decided to pick up a two-person, double-walled expedition style tent instead of a one-man tent.  It was also used and sold at a discount, and essentially new, which was nice.  The other thing is, if you have a heavier double-walled tent you can split it with your buddy and it will be lighter than taking two single-man tents.  

Also, depending where you are you can rent 2-man, 4-season tents.