Denali - Down Puffy Jacket

Hoping to score on some sales for black friday, and want to buy a down puffy for Denali.  I do tend to run a bit colder, female, so don't want to freeze on the mountain.  Any thoughts on the Mountain Hardwear Nilas? I'll also use this jacket for cold days ice climbing in Colorado.

Any other puffy recommendations would be appreciated, thanks!

Hey Sandrock, I have guided on Denali and would say that personally I think Jackets like the Nilas and Fitzroy are the minimum that I would take. It really depends on what kind of trip you are doing as well as how warm you run (sounds like you run cold) though, and you will definitely see people with those level of jackets who are fine when you are up there. If you are trying to bust out a fast and light Cassin or more technical routes than you will likely be happy with those jackets, if you are just doing the West buttress though there is lots of slow hiking with weight across exposed and at times brutally cold terrain. I would recommend something along the lines of the Patagonia grade VII or one of the big mountain equipment jackets like the expedition or K7. A big part of picking what jacket to bring also comes from experience, if you are newer to big mountains then airing on the warmer side may be prudent, if you have lots of experience than striping things down may be a better option with the understanding of when you might have a uncomfortable shiver bivy but be okay. Personally when I am working I bring a North Face Himalayan Parka (overkill) because I know I am going to have lots of exposure time, already be very heavy, will be moving slow and want to have the highest level of comfort vs when I do personal trips around the range I use a Fitz Roy knowing that I will be moving much faster etc. That being said I have co guides who swear by the Fitz Roy, also when in the season you go plays a big role, one thing is for sure though when storms come they come and it really is a personal choice. You will likely be fine in most all of these jackets but it really just comes down to comfort.
-Hope this helps, Dogarf

The Patagonia Grade Vll has some well documented issues with down shift/ cold shoulder areas.
Some great advice above, here is my input from New England where we get some bitter cold winter climbing.
If you go with a mid weight ( nilas, Patagonia fitzroy..) another to look at would be the Rab Infinity G which is a fantastic jacket and solidly warmer than my Fitzroy.
If going warmer, which sounds like you should being a cold person I would take a hard look at the Mountain Equipement K7, I looked at one last winter and was impressed with it. Mtn Equipement has a “expedition” parka but it is 10 ounces heavier with limited added warmth.
Enjoy Denali!

You do not want a puffy but a down jacket. The Mountain Hardwear Nilas is a down jacket that gets good reviews. I have used what is now FeatherFriends Khumbu Parka as well the NF Summit Jacket. Basically, you want a fully baffled jacket - not sewn through which is what a puffy is with even less insulation.

Not my advert: https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/102169-feathered-friends-front-point-jackets/?tab=comments#comment-1154052

Edit to add see this thread : mountainproject.com/forum/t…

Thanks everyone, really helpful!

I used the Mountain Hardwear absolute zero. Had a marmot Greenland that I was going to bring instead. Would have been warm enough but the weather was terrible so we spent a lot of time hanging in camp so the burlier jacket was nice to have. Only wore it in camp and headed up Denali pass before the sun was out as well as coming back down from
The summit for a bit. 

This year (2019) I bought an Eddie Bauer PEAK XV expedition parka. In an otherwise great mountain parka I felt the front zipper was inadequately protected.

MY MODS:
1. filled the original internal zipper baffle with down to make it "puffy" (TNF DWR down from "Ripstop by the Roll")
2. made a second zipper baffle tube, sewed it on the left side & filled it with down

These two baffles work like the Patagonia Grade VII and Fitzroy parka baffles.

Now I have an excellent parka for $260. on sale plus $50. in materials and my labor.