First flatiron direct route advice?

I'm thinking of climbing the first flatiron's direct route, roped.  I'd like to make sure I'm up for what I'm getting in to.

I have been up Fandango, and found most of that route pretty chill, other than the nerves from being on what was my first actual long, committed route.  I lead pitch 2 on it since it was pretty protected.  That said, the runouts on the direct route sound scarier.  How bad is it?  Anyone actually take a cheese-grater on flatiron slab and care to share the experience?  I'm really worried about what would happen if a foot slipped before that first bolt, or while clipping the second...

Also - any funky gear I should have?  I'll be taking tricams, a nut set, singles from a #0 mastercam to #3 double-axle friend and slings/cord/webbing.

If you're worried about this route, you might not be ready yet. The first bolt is pretty straightforward to get to but like virtually every Flatirons route, falling is really not an option. Same with the second bolt. The most important gear includes comfy sticky shoes and a positive attitude.

Nathan Sullivan wrote:  I'm really worried about what would happen if a foot slipped before that first bolt, or while clipping the second...

Also - any funky gear I should have?  I'll be taking tricams, a nut set, singles from a #0 mastercam to #3 double-axle friend and slings/cord/webbing.

Yeah, you definitely don't want to slip a foot anywhere on the first flatiron. That said, it's a very easy climb. Just keep your eyes up and don't climb into no mans land.

After the first pitch, everything else is super chill. That's the only crux. Some of the ridge running pitches are outright walking. You can bypass the first pitch a variety of ways, too. Once you get familiar with the lower part of the rock, you can skip pitch one and join in with the third pitch to pass parties lined up on the lower pitches. I use the East Gully route to the right and then step up and over a rise to access the huecos above the first two pitches. If you have done Fandango, I'm sure you'll be fine.

It was an easy climb...  but about half way through I questioned why I even bothered using a rope (The runout is real).  I did the leading, so the rope was for my partner ;-).  Honestly, the first pitch is the crux.  If the first pitch doesnt go well you can leave a bail biner or rig an anchor to bail off of the first pitch.  If bailing from the first pitch a single 70M will not suffice.  I believe the best climber is the one that can climbing tomorrow.

If you're comfortable on moderate slab you'll likely be okay if you can handle to runout.

Think about waiting until the days are longer in the summer it's a long route and you won't have much spare daylight if things go wrong.

I lead it this summer as a relatively new trad leader. My second who is not as good of a climber as me cruised up every pitch. But every step for me was a challenge simple because of the runouts and fear management. Make sure your headspace is in a good place. I loved this route and its definitely a classic but I will probably never lead it again. At least not until I'm crushing 5.11s and feel fine free-soloing 5.6 since thats basically what the leader is doing.

The run-out is definitely serious, and not to be taken lightly. That being said, the climbing is easy and the holds are mostly obvious. Like any other flatiron, you will need to trust some smeary feet on low angle slab in many spots. Just take your time and choose your feet carefully.
Even after soloing the route many times, I am always most nervous about the first two pitches. After that it is just pure fun the whole rest of the way.

Tricams are useful, as are TCUs for weird little pockets. Take long slings to cinch on chicken heads, etc. Other than that, a single standard rack is fine, and you probably won't use a lot of it. And as others have stated, make sure you have plenty of time. Pitching out all ~10 pitches takes a long time.

I agree with some of Brett’s assessments: that a longer day is best, especially if your transition efficiency isn’t great; and that there are sections of pretty significant run-out, albeit on easy terrain. I agree that the first pitch to the tree is the most serious bit of the day, but the second pitch has rock features I dislike (they seem slippery to me, but they have great edges).
I disagree that you need to be firing 11s to feel comfortable on the rock. It may cause you a little sphincter clenching until you hit those bolts, but as long as the rock is dry and you’re not being careless, you should be fine.
Good luck out there. 

Hmm, OK, maybe I should pick something less runout/comitting.  My major goal right now is getting mileage on gear (placing and removing it), so I guess the flatiron routes aren't the best choice for that anyway.

Have you considered Cob Rock?

Perhaps run up the second flatiron and third to get more of a feel for the style, and then see how you feel about it? The second is mega easy, but standard flatiron run outs and gear funk. The third is steeper, but also really mellow, and takes relatively good gear. The last pitch will get your head ready for the first pitch of the East Face Direct(run-out friction climbing at 5.4 rather than 5.6).

Yeah, I've been there (Cob Rock).  That might be a good choice.  Considering the third as well, though the short day thing still applies.

Gotta talk it over with my partner and we'll see.

You may want to consider Seal Rock: it's only 4 pitches long, through the first pitch you can sling trees (a fall would still be pretty bad though), the third pitch eats gear and the summit is cool!

Seal Rock is very cool, then you have a very long rappel.

I actually find the pitch after the tree ledge to be the most committing. That yellow band with the shifty rocks gets my adrenaline runnin! But then there's that big bolt to belay at, and yodeling moves to the bbq ledge.

Fandango is a great route - other than the first pitch of the Direct Route, I can't think of anything you would be completely unprepared for. The last pitch of the third can take quite a bit of gear, until the very last bit, where it eases up in steepness, significantly.

Sad to see that weather is moving in again

If you’re solid on lead, the first couple pitches aren’t bad. Keep you wits about you and plug gear in where you can. Flatiron routes are mostly not fit for someone maxed out at the grade. 

Seal rock really does look like a nice mini adventure, I'm certainly considering that.  The rap looks fun/scary.

yer gonna die

Ugh, we went all the way there to do the third since my partner has done it - found it iced up.  The first was covered in verglas up to the first bolt, so that was a firm "no" as well.  So, we went up the second instead with gear and belays for fun, making the most of the day.

The start of the first's direct route didn't look too bad under the ice - I'm still going to need to try that.