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Anyone 200+ lbs and sending 5.13? Can it be done???

Original Post
Matt Jones · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 101

Just curious.

Isaac Roter · · Toyota, Sienna · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 271
Tim Lutz wrote: John Dunne

It can be Dunne.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

SEND IT

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17

I got a buddy who is 6' and 190 who just .13d...I know that doesn't help, but I enjoy spraying for humble friends.

Taylor Spiegelberg · · WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,686

If you pay for my food this winter to fatten me up and provide me with a training plan, I'll be the first research subject! Only 30lbs to go...

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
Isaac Roter wrote:

It can be Dunne.

9a/14d for Mr. Dunne I believe. 

PRRose · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

I can think of a few, but I would hate to name names and be wrong...not about whether they climb 5.13, but about whether they tip the scales at 200 lbs.

Sam M · · Portland, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

I'd imagine it's more about your body fat percentage/bmi

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60

Eddie Russell's a big boi!

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Tim Lutz wrote: John Dunne

How much did he weigh when sending hard, though? He was known for cutting weight severely for hard routes. So while his walking-around weight was quite high, his sending weight was under 200, I assume? 

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,113

Kurt Ross

stolo · · Lake Norman, NC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 214

fingers of steel

Trent Mellgren · · ALISO VIEJO · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

At 215lbs and 6'3 i often wonder if i chose the right sport. 

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60

I climbed with Dunne in 2001 in the gym a bunch when i studied in England, and he was a big dude then. Crushing.

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60

Mike Simpson - not sure where he is these days (in NC early/mid 00's), i know he's an old head from the So. Ill sport climbing days of the early 90's.  He's a big dude too and climbed well into 5.13. 

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,677

Mike Caldwell was certainly over 200lbs much of the time.
Hugh Loeffler was probably over 200lb, but he was also very very tall.  
He answered the question with the route "take that Katie Brown."

Yeah, it can be done, even by mere mortals.  The question is what sort of routes.

J.Kruse · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 827

I am 6'6" and fluctuate around 205 lbs. Hardest I've sent is 5.12a. I don't climb or train enough to know if I could climb 5.13 and probably never will, but I sometimes think about the upper limits of difficulty for heavy climbers. Always interested to hear stories about huge folks pulling hard. John Dunne already discussed is most famous example. I grew up climbing in southern Illinois and the guidebooks always made the hardman Jim Thurmond sound like a pretty big dude. Anyone know more about him? Maybe I'm way off.

Big B · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1

Long?

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

More fun, what sort of route could a big guy rock that spits everyone else out? I'm on the other end of the spectrum, and I'm certain there are routes I'll fit into others won't. Not 13, though, lol on that one!

So my two cents? Maybe a reachy bigass roof with an off hand sorta crack? That's good hands if you are built for it? Or, so big it spits out smaller people but a big guy/lady gets a nice leg jam?

This is like that boulder problem thread. Really depends on the individual and the route. But, I know so many guys who hover around 200, big guys, who are youngish and strong, I most certainly think they could do 13 if they really went after it.

If you change disciplines to Alpine or ice, that body mass becomes a real plus for endurance on hard crap with ugly approaches. Entirely different animal, but who climbs harder, eh?

Best, Helen

Ben Collett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,637

John Dunne is rather short. I very much doubt he has ever weighed 200 lbs. Toni Lemprecht is really the best example of a heavy crusher. There are plenty of clydesdales who climb 5.13.

PRRose · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0
Old lady H wrote: More fun, what sort of route could a big guy rock that spits everyone else out? I'm on the other end of the spectrum, and I'm certain there are routes I'll fit into others won't. Not 13, though, lol on that one!

So my two cents? Maybe a reachy bigass roof with an off hand sorta crack? That's good hands if you are built for it? Or, so big it spits out smaller people but a big guy/lady gets a nice leg jam?

This is like that boulder problem thread. Really depends on the individual and the route. But, I know so many guys who hover around 200, big guys, who are youngish and strong, I most certainly think they could do 13 if they really went after it.

If you change disciplines to Alpine or ice, that body mass becomes a real plus for endurance on hard crap with ugly approaches. Entirely different animal, but who climbs harder, eh?

Best, Helen

The people I'm thinking of were slabmasters.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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