Help with building woodie...

Looked around the forum and could not find anything similar so i apologize if there is a thread already... for any builders in the community, i am trying to build a small woodie and was wondering the correct way to attach angle joists to a ceiling header? I am using small angle ties, but they are not inspiring total confidence - lol.

Can i get away with a more beefy framing angle corner braces or do i need to squre off the tops on my angle joists and just use hangers similer to the wall header... i attached images:

Any help would be greatly appreciated... i do not have any experience framing so it has been a hell of a learning curve.

https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/How-to-Build-a-Home-Bouldering-Wall.pdf

If you want total confidence, go with something you don't question in the least. Over engineering is peace of mind. I built something similar and used standard joist hangers on top and bottom.

Excuse the crude phone drawing. You don't have anywhere near enough support. Red line should be additional bracing. The yellow x's are to show if you set the 45° board behind the ceiling brace how it would act as a kicker brace to prevent it from pushing forward.
Do not use deck screws as the hardware component of the structural support. You should use 5/16” minimum carriage bolts with countersunk washers. If those don't work with your clips, get different braces. Google Simpson Products, or Unistrut for hardware options.
Good thing you posted this, that what you have would have gotten you hurt. 

It looks like you are pretty much following the Metolius .pdf. You might just need a bigger joist hanger underneath the Header Joist to join to the main wall joists. I don't think you will be able to guage the strength of the wall based on (1) 2x4. Once you have multiple joists up 16" on center, you will get a better idea of how strong this system will be. Just don't forget the lateral bracing. 1/2" plywood will also add a lot of stiffness once everything is all said and done.

You can always count on the internet to tell you everything you are doing wrong. It looks like you pretty much have the right idea (IMO). Wood is pretty forgiving, if the wall isn't as stiff as you would like you can always add more bracing. I think adding midspan support like Brothern Numsie is suggesting is overkill though, and deck screws should be perfectly fine b/c the joist hanger will act as a washer. I don't even know how you would countersink a joist hanger?

Sandbagger Vance wrote: It looks like you are pretty much following the Metolius .pdf. You might just need a bigger joist hanger underneath the Header Joist to join to the main wall joists. I don't think you will be able to guage the strength of the wall based on (1) 2x4. Once you have multiple joists up 16" on center, you will get a better idea of how strong this system will be. Just don't forget the lateral bracing. 1/2" plywood will also add a lot of stiffness once everything is all said and done.

You can always count on the internet to tell you everything you are doing wrong. It looks like you pretty much have the right idea (IMO). Wood is pretty forgiving, if the wall isn't as stiff as you would like you can always add more bracing. I think adding midspan support like Brothern Numsie is suggesting is overkill though, and deck screws should be perfectly fine b/c the joist hanger will act as a washer. I don't even know how you would countersink a joist hanger?

Brother Numsie is in construction. Don't mind constructive debate though. In my opinion he needs to redirect the downwards force into at least 2 directions, not just the single ceiling support. Legs going to the floor would be an alternate. But you can bang into those.

Single plate mount on the ceiling can work if he really strengthens it, serious lag bolts into the joists and the carriage bolts I mentioned. But as he has it it will fall off when he's playing on it.

I second the suggestion of adding another ledger and braces back to the wall. The framing in the ceiling may not be as strong as the stud wall.

Brother Numsie wrote:

Brother Numsie is in construction. Don't mind constructive debate though. In my opinion he needs to redirect the downwards force into at least 2 directions, not just the single ceiling support. Legs going to the floor would be an alternate. But you can bang into those.

Single plate mount on the ceiling can work if he really strengthens it, serious lag bolts into the joists and the carriage bolts I mentioned. But as he has it it will fall off when he's playing on it.

Do you use carriage bolts in the floor joists you frame up? If not why would you make the bouldering wall connections stiffer than the framing surrounding it?

Per the metolius .pdf, if you are doing a 45 degree wall on a 8' span I would use something bigger than a 2x4, probaby a 2x8. No need for a redundant mid span support.

https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example8.1/index.html

Use the above link, to confirm what Metolius says. The mid span moment on a 45 degree angle can be calculated the same as a flat span, assuming you have an 8" span just use (300 lbs x 5.6') = 1680 ft lbs for the maximum moment mid span (5.6' is the distance of the hanging load from the joint). The link reccomends 2x10's but I doubt your ceiling is more than a 2' x 8', if they are then use 2x10's instead of 2x8's. Adding mid span support on the bouldering wall will import momentum on your wall if your ceiling brackets are not strong enough. This might damage your wall, which is weaker than your ceiling.

Thanks all. Just building 45 so like mentioned... following the metolius instructions completely. 45 degree overhang with 2x8 headers (base into wall studs and sleepers into ceiling joists) and 2x8 angle joists. I will add 2x4 blocking before putting up 3/4” plywood.

I just couldnt tell from the instructions how to connect the angle joists to the ceiling joist based on the image... so i just wanted to check. That said i am just going to use joist hangers on the top as well. 

I would like to know how many people making suggestions have built a bouldering wall themselves? My wall angles are 28 and 34 so I'm putting not putting as much force on the ceiling as 45, but I did no extra bracing as some are suggesting, simply connected the tops the same way as the bottom, and have had no movement or issues. I didn't use any blocking because the plywood provides lateral support once sewn up. The thing is rock solid and I have group bouldering nights regularly.

I have a garage build with 2x10s for the wall and ceilings. My 8'x12' 40* wall is built like the photo shown above with 6 2x8 joists with no extra bracing. 3/4" ACX plywood for the climbing surface with generous amounts of paint on the front but not the back. I was worried it would not be strong enough but that things is like a rock. There is NO flex while climbing it and it barely creaks while I throw 150#s of dumbass all over that thing. I used deck screws all around although in hindsite Lag screws would have been better for attaching the joists to the ceiling. Here is a photo of it...

My 20* is built fully with 2x6s and is attached to a FAT ceiling support beam with deck screws and the base is bolted to the concrete, that board is a ground treated board. ACX 3/4" ply on this wall as well. This wall also has no bracing in the rear, I think its also very strong but if I was doing it again I would maybe use 2x8s for this wall as well, they are not that much more expensive, I dont think this wall needs rear bracing. There is no noticeable flex in it but it does creak while being climbed on.

My Campus Board is built with 4 2x6s and leftover 2x10 bits that connect it to the wall. This board is attached to the ceiling support beam on the opposite side of the 20* wall. It is more than strong enough and actually feels the most sturdy of all the walls Ive made.

I am NOT a builder and would NOT describe myself as an authoritative voice for this topic but this has been my experience.

Andy W, I have built a number of walls at different angles. 15, 30, 45, 60. All used the same construction shown in Brother Numsie's corrected photo. 1 2x6 ledger at the base of the wall with brackets. 1 2x6 ledger for perpendicular support. 1 2x4 ledger at ceiling w/ brackets. I think i have some pdf plans saved away, if I find them i will post them.

 
This was a quick sketch for a wall where we thought the gyp board on the ceiling was going to be removed. We would have attached the wall studds to blocks between the bottom chords of the ceiling trusses. We ended up using a 2x4 ledger at the ceiling instead.

Eric K wrote: I have a garage build with 2x10s for the wall and ceilings. My 8'x12' 40* wall is built like the photo shown above with 6 2x8 joists with no extra bracing. 3/4" ACX plywood for the climbing surface with generous amounts of paint on the front but not the back. I was worried it would not be strong enough but that things is like a rock. There is NO flex while climbing it and it barely creaks while I throw 150#s of dumbass all over that thing. I used deck screws all around although in hindsite Lag screws would have been better for attaching the joists to the ceiling. Here is a photo of it...

Eric, impressive wall, but you don't use blocking where the two sheets of ACX meet? I know OSB uses a tongue and groove to strengthen the edges so blocking isn't necessary. I just find it hard to believe that you haven't gotten any cracks in the paint at that joint. I don't have any experience building a bouldering wall myself, just speaking from experience replacing subfloors.

The 40* has three sheets of ply laid on their side, there is NO blocking where the sheets meet and there is not a continous pain line between them. It is by no means an invisible seam, you can clearly tell where one sheet ends and the other begins. I personally have not noticed any flex while grabbing a hold at top or bottom of a sheet. I am NOT saying this is the way it should be done, I think bracing in the back would be useful especially if you weigh more than I do, and some blocking would likely add structural support. The reason I did not do any of these things is because I didnt really know what I was doing and just tried to make it as square and strong as possible. I give it all a good inspection once a month and if I ever notice a problem I'll beef it up quick. So far its working out but it could also be a time bomb waiting to blow on me.

Just wanted to post update.... joist hangers at top are bomb. Thanks for replies all.

looks good