Top rope anchor setup question

Hi everyone,
Recently I took a class with REI on top rope anchors and setup. It was incredibly helpful and I feel much more confident than before, but still at the point where I’d want someone to doublecheck my anchors before totally trusting them. Since it’s pretty cold/often raining outside these days, I probably won’t get to practice IRL anytime soon, so I’m trying to mime different anchor setups in my living room.
In the class, we built anchors using two static rope lines so I feel really confident on that. However, I want to be able to build with just one longer line, so I tried it out... can anyone tell me if this would work?
“Tree 1” has a single bowline with a backup double fisherman’s knot. It comes down to one BFK master point, which goes up to “Tree 2”, which has a bowline tied WITH a bight (so I wouldn’t have to pass the rope through). Then a lot of extra rope off to the side behind that.
Any thoughts?

You'll hear about many "better" ways, different knots, etc., but yours looks good (can't clearly see the knots good enough). Learn how to make an anchor off of two bolts, also, as that is commonly encountered at the top of climbs.

This is fine. However, it seems extremely likely that your REI class way, way, way overcomplicated something extremely simple. Toprope anchors, especially TR anchors that are not built using gear, should be very simple and able to be rigged in two minutes flat, likely less. Yes, check everything, but keep it simple. Simple is best because then there's not all this going on with three or four different types of knots, multiple oddities, etc. Keep it simple so that everything is easy to see and there are fewer places to make a mistake.

In almost all situations one tree is ample. I always laugh when I see people equalizing two massive trees, using 100ft of static line, backed up to natural gear, etc etc. It's great that you're psyched and want to practice but in actual real-life applications, this is rarely if ever used. I can confidently say that in all of my years of climbing I've never had to rig an anchor like you're showing.

Thanks everyone!

This looks really good, and I love the use of rolled up yoga mats to mimic trees LOL! I also love to see people practicing skills learned in class at home! You can get really good at quite a few skills related to climbing without actually being at the cliff!

The comments I have are;

1) You should "capture" the bight left over from the BHK. You can clip it in the master-point biners but it is more common to roll it over the whole knot to "capture" it... not really a big deal as the overhand bight knot you tied shouldn't ever "roll" but capturing this loop is considered "best-practice" and in a worst case scenario would reduce some extension should the knot ever roll...

2) While using the double bowline on the second tree seems like a good idea to eliminate the need of a sling/cordelette and locking carabiner in practice using a sling/cordelette and locker and being able to "tie a clove on the carabiner" makes getting this second leg length correct SO much easier. If you want minimum potential extension and some form of equalization between the two trees tying the clove on a biner really helps here especially if you pre-load the master-point after the BHK step.

You can see how to tie the clove on a biner' in this tech tip video I posted a bit ago... it can be done with that second "leg" under load which helps both legs of this set up see some tension and reduce any potential extension....

https://northeastalpinestart.com/2017/06/20/tech-tip-tying-a-clove-hitch-on-to-the-carabiner/

Northeast Alpine Start wrote:
1) You should "capture" the bight left over from the BHK. You can clip it in the master-point biners but it is more common to roll it over the whole knot to "capture" it... not really a big deal as the overhand bight knot you tied shouldn't ever "roll" but capturing this loop is considered "best-practice" and in a worst case scenario would reduce some extension should the knot ever roll...

Another option for capturing the bight from the BHK if the bight is really long like in the picture is to use it to tie an overhand (add extra wraps to use up more tail) around one of the legs (or both depending on the angle).

Just remember to watch those angles when choosing your anchors (trees in this case). Also, it looks like you'd have a lot of extension if one side failed. I agree most people would use some slings and lockers on the trees and some webbing or cord to create the anchor instead of lugging an extra rope (static line). But also like others said, what you have will work and looks able to be equalized, is solid, and redundant.

Skye Swoboda-Colberg wrote: It's a little difficult to tell what's going on, clove hitches could streamline the process but there is nothing wrong with your setup. The BKF masterpoint is interesting, not sure I have ever seen that particular figure 8 on a bight variation in the field.

I'd just do a bunny ears 8 in place of the BFK. And use sling's and 8's around the trees. Fast, bomber. 

This is so helpful, everyone! Thanks!!!

A technique I was taught for the same scenario was to wrap each tree about 3 times and then tie a tensionless figure 8, and even a fisherman’s to back up (over kill but makes you feel good).  

The theory is that the tensionless knots are easier to identify when doing safety checks, and keep things simple.  This also reduces the very slim chance of the knot untying due to friction.

Yours looks good though and I’d TR on that setup all day. 

That's pretty much a textbook anchor using a long static line, and an additional benefit is that since it's all knots and your two lockers, you don't have many points of possible failure, so it's simple and safe. Additionally, when you make that bowline on a bight, you can plan to use the free end as a tether.

It's a great system if you have a really short approach, but as others have said, it can be easier and faster to use slings, biners, and cord, and all that takes up much less pack space. However, that does introduce more points of failure (or user error), so that's the tradeoff. But unless I know I need my 100' static line, I'm going to go with the slings and cord.

argghgh fighting the desire to make stupid comment about yoga pads not being very good for anchors.

Dan Cooksey wrote: A technique I was taught for the same scenario was to wrap each tree about 3 times and then tie a tensionless figure 8, and even a fisherman’s to back up (over kill but makes you feel good).  

The theory is that the tensionless knots are easier to identify when doing safety checks, and keep things simple.  This also reduces the very slim chance of the knot untying due to friction.

the one dangerous thing about tensionless anchors, you can't tell is the anchor is loaded by looking at or touching the knot.  this isn't really applicable to recreational climbing...more for technical rescue systems.

Kat, Quincy Quarries are a great place to practice building anchors. There are many bolts and iron rods to build from, as well as gear opportunities and natural anchors. J, K, M, Q and S walls are climbed often and dry quickly after rain (left side of J wall has some seepage all year), with K and M walls seeing morning sun with good climbing on warm days well into December (if it ever stops raining). S wall (knights wall) is a shorter, steep slab that is comfortable for new outdoor climbers. C wall has some fantastic climbs, protected from the wind and gets afternoon sun but be careful slinging the boulders closer to the D wall as they are loose.

With trees/boulders I usually use a bowline>masterpoint>clove hitch to a locking HMS carabiner that's been basket hitched to the second tree.  Fig. eight on a bight>masterpoint>clove using bolts.

2) While using the double bowline on the second tree seems like a good idea to eliminate the need of a sling/cordelette and locking carabiner in practice using a sling/cordelette and locker and being able to "tie a clove on the carabiner" makes getting this second leg length correct SO much easier. If you want minimum potential extension and some form of equalization between the two trees tying the clove on a biner really helps here especially if you pre-load the master-point after the BHK step.

awesome! I'll for sure go down to Quincy Quarries sometime if the weather ever lets up...

That anchor is bomber. Capture that third loop like NE Alpine said. You won't die if you don't but it's the right thing to do. As mentioned, there are definitely a few tricks to make building it quicker and -more important- easier to adjust the legs for equalization. Learn the tension less 8 if you don't want to use a cordelette/clove hitch combo. Check out Hammond Pond. I like it better than Q Quarries for practicing anchor building and easy climbing. The main wall has 6 or 7 5.5-5.7s with a variety of anchor building options to practice on top. Have fun.

Great set up! Just clip that tail to the BHK biners or roll it over/girth hitch it around the BHK. BHK's are better made with a figure of eight too instead of an overhand as you have here but an overhand is fine as well. This is bomber. Check your equalization too. On the left "tree" if you use a cordalette or sling and then clove hitch the static line to that you can micro adjust your equalization very easily. After establishing your first amchor you should always load the BHK and then build your other anchor. Looks great and keep climbing!

YGD™.