Crampon recommendation for RMNP

Really looking forward to getting into ice climbing/mountaineering this winter. Mostly expect to be doing stuff in RMNP, have friends to go with and hoping to get on the some of the classic easy/moderate routes. I'm 19 and have 3.5 more years of school out here so what would be a good crampon to start out with and last me as I hopefully get into more technical routes (Alexander's chimney looks sickk).  My biggest question is horizontal vs vertical front points for routes in the park maybe say for routes up to WI4/M4? (BD snaggletooth's?) I know borrowing or trying out gear first is the best but not really an option for me at the moment. Also likely getting a pair of Scarpa Freney XT's if that makes a difference. Any input would be really appreciated. Thanks.

Not exactly a straight answer to your question, but here is an article written by Steve House on crampons that has some good information in it: https://www.uphillathlete.com/forums/topic/best-crampons-for-alpine-climbing/

I would also recommend warmer boots than the Freney. From what I can see the Freney is designed more for road side mixed climbing, where you can switch in and out of boots if you get cold. RMNP can get pretty cold, and has some long approaches. I really like the Phantom Techs or 6000's, but I get cold feet...

The Freney XTs will accept a full auto crampon. What boots will you be using before you get the Freneys; will they require a toe strap? If so, a convertible model like Petzl Lynx would be a good choice. Also b/c you can run the dual frontpoints for alpine stuff and switch to mono if you get attracted to vertical waterfall type ice.

Gunkiemike wrote: The Freney XTs will accept a full auto crampon. What boots will you be using before you get the Freneys; will they require a toe strap? If so, a convertible model like Petzl Lynx would be a good choice. Also b/c you can run the dual frontpoints for alpine stuff and switch to mono if you get attracted to vertical waterfall type ice.

I agree with Gunkiemike. If your looking at doing any technical climbing spend a little more to get removable front points. You can replace them when they wear or change up if you want to run dual or mono. 

BD cyborgs, Petzl Lynx, Grivel G22, etc 

John Sims wrote: Not exactly a straight answer to your question, but here is an article written by Steve House on crampons that has some good information in it: https://www.uphillathlete.com/forums/topic/best-crampons-for-alpine-climbing/

I would also recommend warmer boots than the Freney. From what I can see the Freney is designed more for road side mixed climbing, where you can switch in and out of boots if you get cold. RMNP can get pretty cold, and has some long approaches. I really like the Phantom Techs or 6000's, but I get cold feet...

Thanks for your input about the boots too. Done a lot of research online and read the article, I feel like I understand the pros and cons for both but was looking for some specific info on RMNP.

In my worthless opinion, the new Grivel G20 plus with the replaceable front point are the best crampon available.

I second slugger up above, new g20s are my pon of choice for alpine, primarily in rmnp. I also enjoy my camp bladerunners. I've had bd, petzl, and trango crampons, in mono/double/vertical/horizontal/semiauto/full-auto/bails/nobails whatever. All time favorite setup so far has been (temps allowing) SCARPA rebel pro boots in g20s (new or old). Lightest and super nimble with some decent secondary points for rests and snow, and they don't dull as fast as bd/petzl in my experience. Second choice is probably my blade runners, primarily because of their weight. 

I’ll sell you these. Mono point.  $70 shipped.

Also agree on the g20+ they're fantastic.

If you've got your eyes set on the park it sounds to me like you plan to trash whatever crampons you get. Which I'm all for, but I also notice that you're a student, so presumably broke. This poses a problem.

Whatever you get make sure they're not too expensive and replacement parts are cheap and readily available (BD is cheaper than Petzl and more widely available than grivel, but wear out a bit faster). Plan on wearing out a pair of front points each season, and a pair of crampons every couple years (YMMV but this is a good starting estimate). Horizontal front points cant be replaced without replacing the entire front half of the pon (an $80-$140 proposition, assuming you can find replacements). Petzl front points last longer but are more expensive than BD. Grivel are probably better than BD too, but even if they're the same cost their distribution isn't as good in North America as BD so pick your poison between BD (durability) and Petzl (cost), or roll the dice with grivel. Either way stock up on replacement parts early because sometimes there are shortages. Climbing in a monopoint configuration will minimize the number of front points you need to replace, but don't' expect it to halve your upkeep costs because you will still eventually wear out the secondary front points and need to replace the whole crampon (or again, maybe just the front section).

Buying slightly used crampons may not be a bad idea, and then you can save your nice new crampons for ice, which you won't find in the park.

G20+ for everything always. Light, sensitive, modular, good metal, easy kicks with mono points, and a superior mixed performance.

Briggs Lazalde wrote:

Horizontals for alpine snow

Dual verticals for steep ice

Mono verticals for rock and mixed

Snaggletooths for the best of all worlds.

Understand this thanks, wanted an answer specific for RMNP since I have yet to climb there.

I too am looking for a general use crampon. I’ve currently have a pair of G14’s strap on that have been good so far. I just got a pair of Acrux boots that will now take full auto crampons.
How would the G20’s, or G22’s do on lower angle ice in more of a hiking scenario? Any other solid options to consider other than what is mentioned above, and from the Steve House link?

Overshot03 wrote: I too am looking for a general use crampon. I’ve currently have a pair of G14’s strap on that have been good so far. I just got a pair of Acrux boots that will now take full auto crampons.
How would the G20’s, or G22’s do on lower angle ice in more of a hiking scenario? Any other solid options to consider other than what is mentioned above, and from the Steve House link?

Take a look at Briggs advice above for the type of climbing you will be doing. If your not doing technical climbing what you suggested would work, but might be overkill. 

I bought the Acrux boots last season and love them. They have a little bit more flex than other boots so for technical ice (WI4-ish) I prefer a more rigid crampon to stiffen them up like the BD Cyborgs.

E Mann wrote:

Understand this thanks, wanted an answer specific for RMNP since I have yet to climb there.

What are some specific routes you want to do? Are you looking to climb pure ice routes? Mixed routes? Snowy walk ups? Alpine routes that combine all the above? 

Right now your question is the same as asking what crampons are the best for the Alps, or the Himalayas. To which the answer still is, it depends on what your climbing. 

John Sims wrote:

What are some specific routes you want to do? Are you looking to climb pure ice routes? Mixed routes? Snowy walk ups? Alpine routes that combine all the above? 

Right now your question is the same as asking what crampons are the best for the Alps, or the Himalayas. To which the answer still is, it depends on what your climbing. 

As crags go RMNP ("the park") is dry. There is some ice, but it's short lived. Low snowfall combined with high winds desiccates whatever does form very rapidly, meaning that for most of the "winter" season (October to April) you're mostly scraping up snowy rock. It is not the same as asking what's best in the Alps or Himalaya, both snowy and well iced ranges. It's probably closer to asking what's best in the Karakorum based on what I've heard about the latter.

This may be more illustrative:
https://vimeo.com/ondemand/thepark
Trailer alone could do to illustrate, but the video as a whole was worth buying for me. It's got one ice route featured (which usually comes in for a month if at all and then sublimates) and maybe 5-6 routes that are devoid of anything that would take a screw. I think that's representative of what the park has to offer.

That said OP said he's looking at routes up to WI4/M4. You could finish all commonly done routes easier than that in a season if you were dedicated and well informed (there are probably less than 10), so I can't necessarily speak for him. People commonly need to recalibrate their expectations as they figure the place out though (and this can take a while), so WHAT he currently thinks he will be climbing is probably not as important as you might think. WHERE he plans to climb is informative though.

Thanks everyone, y'all've been quite helpful. Ended up with some Sportiva Evo's and been waiting for some used, dual points pon's with replaceable vertical front points to pop up.