Owens River Gorge Rock Type

I don't know what volcanic tuff is. Is ORG climbing like basalt or limestone, granite. Smooth? Solid for gear?

Hahahahahahah!!! I love this

Compacted volcanic ash. This varies in features.
 
Smith Rock is a less compacted version of welded tuff, making for rounder features and softer rock. Not to say there isn't bullet rock.

The Owens River Gorge rock is more compressed, making the volcanic ash air pockets more compressed and eye-like - also making "brow" features.

The rock also tends to be harder than much of what Smith offers.

So I should climb the awesome sport routes in the ORG and get some crack climbing done on the granite walls of Pine Creek?

Hi Kyle,

I've lead a number of gear routes in the Gorge, just because I've climbed so much there.  I wouldn't make it a destination of crack climbing of course, but if you are down there and enjoy crack climbing, there are some cracks that are worth doing, most in a fairly small area of the Upper Gorge.  You don't need a big rack, I typically only take cams down there.  There are also some routes of a mixed crack and face nature that are bolt-protected, like Wacked Scenario at Gorgeous Towers, which is super fun.  So the question is whether you want to practice gear placement, or just want to enjoy the crack nature of routes.

I should preface this list by saying that I've never fallen on my gear in the Gorge but most of the gear I've placed on the cracks I've done looks good:

Dihedrals:  Life during Wartime (10a) is very nice, Not Proud enough to Name (5.8), easy but it's a crack.
Cracked Towers at the edge of the Dihedrals: Silence of the Poodles (5.8) quite nice crack moves, worth doing.
At Gotham City, the lower part of bolt-protected 5 star route Dr Evil is definitely hand-crackish.
At all You can Eat cliff, Alfred Hitchcock (5.8) is OK.
At Upper Elbow Room, Stella's Fellas and Kelly's Heroes are as much crack nature as face climbing.  They both used to be mixed bolt and crack gear but now one of them (Kelly's) has been completely bolted now. Both nice.

I was in Bishop climbing in Pine Creek last week for a couple of cold days.  In the sun it's fine, the bases of most of the cliffs are getting sun by about 10:30-11 and go into the shade around 2;30.  The thing I've noticed about Pine Creek is just pay attention to the wind and wind directions.  As you get up high it can get quite chilly.
Have fun.

Great info, thanks. I will be visiting in late December for mostly the sport climbing and some bouldering. However, I can't travel to a climbing destination across the country and not get some crack/traditional route climbing in. Minnesota has a lot of fractured, gear protected face climbing with only smaller sections of jamming. Would be great to get some variety while visiting Bishop (sport, trad, boulders) browsing the areas, it appears the granite traditional areas are all in the higher elevations. I'll check out those recommendations. Guidebook for the Gorge? I seen a Mike? and Peter Croft book.. Is that the one to get? Thanks everybody.

There's a new Guide out for both ORG and Pine Creek (2 separate guides).

Kyle Berthiaume wrote: Great info, thanks. I will be visiting in late December for mostly the sport climbing and some bouldering. However, I can't travel to a climbing destination across the country and not get some crack/traditional route climbing in. Minnesota has a lot of fractured, gear protected face climbing with only smaller sections of jamming. Would be great to get some variety while visiting Bishop (sport, trad, boulders) browsing the areas, it appears the granite traditional areas are all in the higher elevations. I'll check out those recommendations. Guidebook for the Gorge? I seen a Mike? and Peter Croft book.. Is that the one to get? Thanks everybody.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/115409756/yet-another-upcoming-guidebook-release-for-the-eastern-sierra#ForumMessage-115420738

Kyle Berthiaume wrote:I will be visiting in late December for mostly the sport climbing and some bouldering. However, I can't travel to a climbing destination across the country and not get some crack/traditional route climbing in. Minnesota has a lot of fractured, gear protected face climbing with only smaller sections of jamming. Would be great to get some variety while visiting Bishop (sport, trad, boulders) browsing the areas, it appears the granite traditional areas are all in the higher elevations. 

For crack climbing in Bishop in the winter, Little Egypt is the spot. Close to Buttermilks.