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Cam comparison tool

Original Post
Andy Lei · · New York, NY · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 20
A while ago, I made a tool to help you compare cams and put together a cogent rack.

You can find that tool here: https://cam-parison.com/.  It visualizes the effective ranges cams.  It looks like this:

For me, its really useful when I'm trying to see how a new piece of gear would fit into my rack.

I have made a couple of updates to the page that I thought might be useful to people:

  1. You can now share your rack!  For example, this is my rack.  After you have chosen your cams, you can click the "Share" button to get a url to show others your rack!
  2. Expansion is visualized through the bars.  There are white lines at 10% and 60% of the range, so you can get an idea of what the usable range is.  If you click "More Options" and hover over the "Expansion" button, there's a more detailed explanation.
Please let me know what you think, or share your rack!
Matthew Carpenter · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 413

Bump... saving to review for my cams at a later date.

Also, can you add pre-C4 BD cams?

Isaac Roter · · Toyota, Sienna · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 266

Awesome!! Thank you!

Pete Nelson · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 27

Great job! Thanks...

Dan Allard · · West Chester, PA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,070
matt carpenter wrote: 
Also, can you add pre-C4 BD cams?

ditto this.. (and also add Metolius Powercam sizes #9 and 10)

They changed the range for the same numbers so its a little confusing  
The old Camalot 4.5 is bigger than the new 5 for example.

Great work though. thanks for sharing. Super useful tool!
Piotr Sobczak · · Queretaro, MX · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

Great url. As others said please add older cams including TCU 000

James D · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 30

great work! Thanks! Wayyyy better than my crappy excel file I created years ago!

Luna Luna · · New Haven, CT · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 60

I’ve referenced the site from time to time and it is useful, thank you. Would you be open to adding big-bros? Thanks!

Andy Lei · · New York, NY · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 20

I'm having some trouble finding published ranges for these older cams.  Anybody know the min and max expansions for these cams?

  • pre-C4 BD
  • Metolius Powercam sizes #9 and 10
  • TCU 000
Piotr Sobczak · · Queretaro, MX · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0
jt newgard · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 436

Thanks. I like Metolius in the smaller range so it was great to compare to the Camalot C4s.

I was surprised to see the 0.75 C4 overlap a bit with the orange Metolius mastercam! I have no excuse not to try those horrible ringlocks now!!!

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

I've touted enough times but I'll give it another go:
http://steimann.li/

djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 110

If you look at the chart I think it makes sense to carry BD and totem on climbs because of the sizing differences

Hayden Moore · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 50
Dan Allard · · West Chester, PA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,070
Andy Lei wrote: I'm having some trouble finding published ranges for these older cams.  Anybody know the min and max expansions for these cams?
  • pre-C4 BD
  • Metolius Powercam sizes #9 and 10
  • TCU 000

Hey Andy -

Some links that may have additional data to help

http://www.steimann.li/climbing/slcd.html
http://alanblanchflower.co.uk/climbing/cams.php
http://dawnalguard.com/tradgirl/climbing_faq/pro_sizechart_active.htm
http://www.clydesoles.com/Front/Camsbrand.html (check out the "Gone but not forgotten section")

From an old metolius website for powercams

And for original CCH Aliens:
https://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/cams/cchalienscom.htm
https://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/cams/cchaliens_hybrid.htm

Psyched about the updates, keep up the great work!
Leliko Mana · · On the road in US · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 45
Andy Lei wrote: A while ago, I made a tool to help you compare cams and put together a cogent rack.

You can find that tool here: https://cam-parison.com/.

Andy, among several similar products, yours seems to be the easiest to navigate through but you do need to add those cams that are missing, for example site 7 and 8 DMM Dragons, and new friends...

Looking forward to seeing an updated cam-parison sometime soon :)
curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274

lovin this!!

M guzzy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Andy I really like your tool.Well done. It 's great way to visualize the Cam ranges. Can you add to your database older cams, like the original rigid stem Friends and some of the other out of production cams? I see the old Aliens specs have been posted, cool!

M guzzy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Dan Allard wrote:

Hey Andy -

Some links that may have additional data to help

http://www.clydesoles.com/Front/Camsbrand.html (check out the "Gone but not forgotten section")

Psyched about the updates, keep up the great work!

Dan.. I just browsed through those links.. nice! especially the "Gone but not forgotten section" It would be cool if Andy could incorporate that data as well for us old fogies that still climb with legacy gear.

Scurvy Dave · · Squamish · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

This is great! Thanks for the work you put in to this!

Bob Klaas · · Westminster, CA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 260

Super sick man! Works great. A couple features I thought of.

1. Adding Tango Big Bros. :)
2. Possibly adding X & Y axis cross-hairs with a value readout. Similar to a lot of stock market charts. (See Image Below)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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