How to manage two ropes?
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My wife and I have two 70mm two pattern 9.7 Edelrid Anniversary ropes, which look identical. This late fall we are targeting a moderate climb on Sugarloaf in NM which may require two ropes. We won’t climb if there is snow or ice on the slabby 5.6. |
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1. They are not half or twin ropes so you should only be leading/ following with one tied to the climber. single vs twin vs half |
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NorCalNomad wrote: Yes, for rappelling. Obvious now that you’ve said it. Thank you. |
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Jaren Watson wrote: If you decide the leader will climb on both ropes, alternate clipping the protection. Rope A into the first piece, Rope B into the second piece, and so on. Do not do this with single rated ropes. |
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When taking the first rope out climbing, reassure the second rope that you are just going to visit a sick friend, or getting the car fixed, or some such excuse. |
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Tim Stich wrote: When taking the first rope out climbing, reassure the second rope that you are just going to visit a sick friend, or getting the car fixed, or some such excuse. Psychology...very important. |
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KC wrote: Exactly my worry. Cool. Thanks. |
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2 70 meter ropes for rappels? That seems like a lot. I don't know the area, but i feel like its usually either 1 70 meter rope rapel or 2 60's. |
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NorCalNomad wrote: 1. They are not half or twin ropes so you should only be leading/ following with one tied to the climber. single vs twin vs half Not entirely correct. All single ropes meet or exceed the half rope specifications and test. Conversely most half ropes will not meet the single rope test and specs. Read the UIAA test specifications and you'll understand. |
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Which route? North Face? |
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I was curious why (besides both of OP's ropes being the same color) it would be bad to use singles as halves. Found this: |
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You certainly can use two singles with half rope technique, just not twin rope technique unless their certified as such. I often climb at a place with 60m raps using two single ropes in this way. Just look up half rope technique and how to manage ropes with it. The hard part for you is both ropes are the same color, which makes telling which is the right rope and which is the left rope difficult. consider borrowing a different colored single that is the same length.
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sDawg wrote: Since your ropes are identical, make a plan for how to tell them apart. When you start a 2-rope rappel, it's important to note which side of the rap rings the knot is on and which rope you will be able to pull. ... I tie half a double fisherman stopper knot in one, and half a triple fisherman in the other. Tie so that I always pull the triple. |
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One leader dragging up Two times 9.7 mm full out a long pitch is a LOT of weight. You’d be miserable. 9.7 is pretty hefty these days. There are very few raps which require 2 70s. You might want to invest in a skinny 1/2 rope at 60 meters and have the second either drag it or carry it in a backpack. |
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As a twosome, I would do North Face of Sugarloaf with a 70m single and a tag line. |
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We would gladly follow an experienced party. Any such parties going that way 12/10, 12/11, or 12/12. |
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sDawg wrote: Since your ropes are identical, make a plan for how to tell them apart. When you start a 2-rope rappel, it's important to note which side of the rap rings the knot is on and which rope you will be able to pull. At the bottom you should only pull on that rope. Pulling the wrong rope risks getting the knot stuck in the rings. I could imagine tape at the end, or tying opposite patterns together so the patterns are also different at the bottom. This I have dealt with. There is a black strand woven into one side. Coordinating and remembering which strand is where is doable but not ideal. Thank you. |
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Bill Lawry wrote: Which route? North Face? Yes. North Face. |
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DaveBaker wrote: I tie a Flemish Bend (figure eight bend). I am pretty comfortable with that. I’ll have to look up a double and tripple fisherman. (But psychologically, I have a hard time trusting EDKs and barrel knots...without sound reasons.) |
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Chicken Head wrote: He wasn't talking about tying the two ropes together, but stopper knots at the (bottom) end of each individual rope. |
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Chicken Head wrote: Do a search for edk in this forum and you can read all about the sound reasons. |