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How to manage two ropes?

Original Post
Chicken Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

My wife and I have two 70mm two pattern 9.7 Edelrid Anniversary ropes, which look identical.  This late fall we are targeting a moderate climb on Sugarloaf in NM which may require two ropes.  We won’t climb if there is snow or ice on the slabby 5.6.

Can folks offer guidance on how to manage the ropes?

One question is how should we choose between the leader tying with two ropes vs the follower tailing the second rope?

Another question, the route is multipitch, when the leader climbs tied in to two ropes and places gear on both ropes separately is it best to try to keep the ropes in separate piles when belaying up the second.  Is there a trick or technique to this?

 Advice unrelated to the second two questions is welcome too?

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110

1. They are not half or twin ropes so you should only be leading/ following with one tied to the climber. single vs twin vs half
2. I'm assuming that you only need two ropes for a rap? If yes, then just carry it in a backpack, or backpack coil. Only reason to have to tag a rope is if you're going to haul.

Chicken Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
NorCalNomad wrote: 
2. I'm assuming that you only need two ropes for a rap? If yes, then just carry it in a backpack, or backpack coil. Only reason to have to tag a rope is if you're going to haul.

Yes, for rappelling.  Obvious now that you’ve said it. Thank you. 

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110
Jaren Watson wrote: If you decide the leader will climb on both ropes, alternate clipping the protection. Rope A into the first piece, Rope B into the second piece, and so on.

Do not do this with single rated ropes. 

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

When taking the first rope out climbing, reassure the second rope that you are just going to visit a sick friend, or getting the car fixed, or some such excuse.

Chicken Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Tim Stich wrote: When taking the first rope out climbing, reassure the second rope that you are just going to visit a sick friend, or getting the car fixed, or some such excuse.

Psychology...very important. 

Chicken Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
KC wrote: 

I would not recommend having the second trail a rope, that is a great way to get a rope stuck and have to lower down to retrieve it. 

Exactly my worry. Cool. Thanks.

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

2 70 meter ropes for rappels? That seems like a lot. I don't know the area, but i feel like its usually either 1 70 meter rope rapel or 2 60's.
I could be wrong. I'm not a very good climber.
I would either put it in a pack or trail it off the leader, don't trail it off the 2nd. 

baldclimber · · Ottawa, Ontario, Canada · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 6
NorCalNomad wrote: 1. They are not half or twin ropes so you should only be leading/ following with one tied to the climber. single vs twin vs half

Not entirely correct.  All single ropes meet or exceed the half rope specifications and test.  Conversely most half ropes will not meet the single rope test and specs.  Read the UIAA test specifications and you'll understand.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

Which route? North Face?

Serge S · · Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 688

I was curious why (besides both of OP's ropes being the same color) it would be bad to use singles as halves.  Found this:

"And in reality, on a big fall, both ropes usually come under tension before the climber's fall is arrested. In this case each rope supports part of the user's weight."

(from petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Why-t…;Familly=Ropes)

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

You certainly can use two singles with half rope technique, just not twin rope technique unless their certified as such.  I often climb at a place with 60m raps using two single ropes in this way.  Just look up half rope technique and how to manage ropes with it.  The hard part for you is both ropes are the same color, which makes telling which is the right rope and which is the left rope difficult.  consider borrowing a different colored single that is the same length.

If you use half rope technique, you can probably carry less runners as it's much easier to keep the ropes running straight.  This offsets a little bit of the weight, but not much.

The other options are:

  1.  to backpack coil the second rope and one of you carry it while you climb.  
  2. leader trails the second rope off their haul loop (this will slow you down and adds about 8lbs to the leader's harness.  You might have to pull and flake the rope each pitch, and you risk getting it snagged on things...)
  3. Get a Beal Escaper (which i find kinda scary)
Dave Baker · · Wiltshire, UK · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 303
sDawg wrote: Since your ropes are identical, make a plan for how to tell them apart. When you start a 2-rope rappel, it's important to note which side of the rap rings the knot is on and which rope you will be able to pull. ...

I tie half a double fisherman stopper knot in one, and half a triple fisherman in the other.

Tie so that I always pull the triple.
phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137

One leader dragging up Two times 9.7 mm full out a long pitch is a LOT of weight. You’d be miserable. 9.7 is pretty hefty these days. There are very few raps which require 2 70s. You might want to invest in a skinny 1/2 rope at 60 meters and have the second either drag it or carry it in a backpack.

Usual caveats on tying together and rapping on two ropes of different widths and lengths ...

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

As a twosome, I would do North Face of Sugarloaf with a 70m single and a tag line.

70m rope is super nice for several rope-stretching / combining pitches - assuming route finding is not an issue. And, after summitting, one can do the standard rap route with one rope: ‘A’ descent on MP.

Tag line makes bailing nice via double-rope raps. Have bailed once from the top of official pitch 5 but not back down the route - rather a bit off skier’s left via trees in three raps with a bit of downclimbing.

But would I climb as a pair without knowing the route in these short daylight hours and cold nights? - no. Too many potential route-finding issues in 50-60 ft run outs. Wandering off route can get hard. Better to follow a knowledgeable team up it. Still, maybe you bagged it this weekend. :)

P.S. Navigating the way up and down to / from the climb can be tough in the dark. Have gotten lost on the way down even though I had been on the “trail” many times before

Chicken Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

We would gladly follow an experienced party.  Any such parties going that way 12/10, 12/11, or 12/12.

Chicken Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
sDawg wrote: Since your ropes are identical, make a plan for how to tell them apart. When you start a 2-rope rappel, it's important to note which side of the rap rings the knot is on and which rope you will be able to pull. At the bottom you should only pull on that rope. Pulling the wrong rope risks getting the knot stuck in the rings. I could imagine tape at the end, or tying opposite patterns together so the patterns are also different at the bottom. 

This I have dealt with.  There is a black strand woven into one side.  Coordinating and remembering which strand is where is doable but not ideal. Thank you. 

Chicken Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Bill Lawry wrote: Which route? North Face?

Yes.  North Face. 

Chicken Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
DaveBaker wrote:

I tie half a double fisherman stopper knot in one, and half a triple fisherman in the other.

Tie so that I always pull the triple.

I tie a Flemish Bend (figure eight bend).  I am pretty comfortable with that.   I’ll have to look up a double and tripple fisherman. (But psychologically, I have a hard time trusting EDKs and barrel knots...without sound reasons.)

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Chicken Head wrote:

I tie a Flemish Bend (figure eight bend).  I am pretty comfortable with that.   I’ll have to look up a double and tripple fisherman. (But psychologically, I have a hard time trusting EDKs and barrel knots...without sound reasons.)

He wasn't talking about tying the two ropes together, but stopper knots at the (bottom) end of each individual rope.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
Chicken Head wrote:

I tie a Flemish Bend (figure eight bend).  I am pretty comfortable with that.   I’ll have to look up a double and tripple fisherman. (But psychologically, I have a hard time trusting EDKs and barrel knots...without sound reasons.)

Do a search for edk in this forum and you can read all about the sound reasons. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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