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Mountain Equipment Lightline vs Rab Neutrino Pro

Original Post
Erik B · · New York, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 91

Looking to get a solid warm puffy, kinda torn between the two, neither are sold near where I live, so unfortunately it will be a pick one and mail-order it, hope it's great, situation.

They both seam to be pretty solidly warm and at a reasonable price-point.

The Rab has 8oz of 800FP down the Mountain equipment has 10 oz of 700FP down.

I'm having a hard time trying to figure out specifically how the quantity to quality of two translates/compares (or if that's even possible?).

Any experiences with these? I'm mostly looking at these as cold weather belay jackets and possibly used while camping when the temps get lower.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

If you're going to get a good down jacket, always get at least 800FP. It's lighter and packs down more. That said, I have the Rab Infinity Endurance (850FP) that I'm selling for $200 if you're interested. Still perfect condition. Only worn a few times. 

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

In order to give the best recommendations, it would help to know what you plan on using the jacket for and in what climate.  Northeast climbing, mountaineering out west, or just around town in the depths of winter?

Erik B · · New York, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 91
AlpineIce wrote: In order to give the best recommendations, it would help to know what you plan on using the jacket for and in what climate.  Northeast climbing, mountaineering out west, or just around town in the depths of winter?

Most likely in the Northeast. Basically I’m looking to be up in the Gunks whenever weather permits and maybe dabble in some ice and snow kinda stuff when possible. I find myself getting super warm while climbing but I get cold very fast while sitting around or belaying. I may also be camping around temps 30-40F at night, which I’ve done fine before with tons of layers and less puffy items but it’s not as comfortable as just a t shirt and something cozy as hell. 

Around the town is cool but not s priority. 
Erik B · · New York, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 91
Ryan Hamilton wrote: If you're going to get a good down jacket, always get at least 800FP. It's lighter and packs down more. That said, I have the Rab Infinity Endurance (850FP) that I'm selling for $200 if you're interested. Still perfect condition. Only worn a few times. 

Interesting, which color and size are you looking to get rid of?

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5
Erik Braun wrote:

Interesting, which color and size are you looking to get rid of?

It is size Large. Blue. REALLY awesome coat. Only selling because I have another one that fits a bit better (though not as nice of a coat)

Alexander Stathis · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 657

The general rule of thumb is bigger = warmer, and bigger = more down.

Shopping for puffy jackets is really annoying because a lot of companies will only list the fill power and not the fill weight. It's why you'll see high fill power jackets that don't look that puffy, and consequently aren't that warm, because they have a lot less actual down in them. It's also obviously easy to confuse fill power with fill weight.

I'd suggest not thinking of fill power as related to warmth, but more as related to the compressibility and the weight of the down. 1oz of 800 FP down will be warmer than 1oz of 700 FP down, but really, the difference comes more in the form of how light and compressible the down is.

So to answer your question specifically, I would guess that the Mountain Equipment jacket will be warmer, while the RAB jacket will be lighter and more compressible. It's up to you to decide what matters more to you in your jacket, and that depends entirely on what you'll be using it for.

I just bought a RAB Asylum jacket. It's 12.8oz of 650 FP down at 250$. I bought it for standing around in boulder fields. I don't care if it's compressible or light because I'm just standing around in a boulder field. I just want to be warm. In fact, I prefer it isn't compressible because I'm gonna sleep in it sometimes, and I want that sucker to stay puffy and warm. 

Erik B · · New York, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 91
Ryan Hamilton wrote:

It is size Large. Blue. REALLY awesome coat. Only selling because I have another one that fits a bit better (though not as nice of a coat)

Hey Ryan, thank you for the offer, but it's not for me at this point.

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

As I live in upstate New York and climb mostly in the Adirondacks, my vote, between the two, would be the Neutrino Pro.  I own and have owned numerous Rab down jackets and they fit me well.  For northeast ice, 230 grams of down is great start for a belay jacket.  I find, for me, 230 grams on some winter days just isn't enough, so I have a heavier-weight down belay jacket.  That being said because I climb more ice than rock.  If you're interested, I have a men's medium Rab Resolution Jacket for sale.

Erik B · · New York, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 91
AlpineIce wrote: As I live in upstate New York and climb mostly in the Adirondacks, my vote, between the two, would be the Neutrino Pro.  I own and have owned numerous Rab down jackets and they fit me well.  For northeast ice, 230 grams of down is great start for a belay jacket.  I find, for me, 230 grams on some winter days just isn't enough, so I have a heavier-weight down belay jacket.  That being said because I climb more ice than rock.  If you're interested, I have a men's medium Rab Resolution Jacket for sale.

Thanks for that info, ended up ordering the Rab.

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255
Erik Braun wrote:

Thanks for that info, ended up ordering the Rab.

Congrats, man! I bet you'll love it! I should have recommended sizing up, but that's more for committed belay use while on ice.  Let us know what you think in a month or so!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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