Lightweight, durable, highly adjustable alpine/ mountaineering harness suggestions?

Looking to buy a more compact harness for mountaineering mostly, but also some sport and trad. There's so many options out there I thought I'd run it by you guys before making a purchase. I've been using the Petzl Sama, its great and, but is starting to wear down. 

Thanks!

-DMB

I'd pick two harness, one for touring/mountaineering that packs small without fluff and one for sport/trad with gear loops and padding.
Though the Arc'teryx, you can remove the plastic wrap on the gearloops to turn them into nylon straps, makes it more compact under a hipbelt and easier to store.
Haven't tried it but you have the Petzl Sitta (can't don with skis).
Petzl Tour, Blue Ice Choucas are Ski oriented models.

I have the camp blitz that is super lightweight and compact.  Not totally confidence inspiring if leading at your limit and is somewhat uncomfortable when rapping, but doable.  

can't find the blitz on the camp website.  maybe discontinued  Looks like their alp mountain is bulkier and can't tell if you can unclip the leg loops like the blitz.
https://www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/product/harnesses/alp-mountain-harness/

you would be a lot better off using a good, heavier sport or trad climbing for mountaineering use than vice versa.  like Luc-514 said, get two harnesses if possible.

Personally I have a camp alp racing harness for all things where I expect to not weight or fall on the harness (very cheap, 90g, but the blue ice chocas or Edelrid loopo would be better imo). I use these ultralight and near featureless harnesses for glacier travel, alpine ice, easier alpine rock, pretty much anything where I lead with a pack and rack on my packs gear loops/ice clippers. For rock climbing there’s 1000+ options. Hard to find a harness to do both. 

Sitta, 100%.  I've owned mine for a couple seasons now and it's light, compact & comfortable.  I wish it had four ice-clipper slots vs. two, but it's not a deal-breaker (to me).  The orange color is nice and bright, but the white portion doesn't stay clean very long.  Highly recommended. 

I picked up a Singing Rock Garnet a while back as my outdoor harness and I like it.  I don't climb alpine routes, but the harness buckles have a useful feature where they can be taken apart, allowing you put on or take the harness off without ever picking up your feet  This seems like it would be a handy feature for ski touring or mountaineering.
https://www.backcountry.com/singing-rock-garnet-harness-mens

For a mountaineering/ice-climbing harness I've always liked one with "droppable" leg loops that you can put on without removing crampons, which can be a major hassle. Many times on approaches you need to wear crampons, but don't need to rope up. Then, when you finally decide it's time, the particular location may be cramped and exposed. 

My go to harness for alpine climbing has always been the BD Alpine Bod.  Droppable leg loops is a must for donning crampons or when nature calls. Mine predates gear loops but if I had to buy a new one I might remove them as they are uncomfortable when wearing a pack and I prefer to rack on a sling or the pack straps.

Matt Himmelstein wrote: I picked up a Singing Rock Garnet a while back as my outdoor harness and I like it.  I don't climb alpine routes, but the harness buckles have a useful feature where they can be taken apart, allowing you put on or take the harness off without ever picking up your feet  This seems like it would be a handy feature for ski touring or mountaineering.
https://www.backcountry.com/singing-rock-garnet-harness-mens

Derail - how do you like the Garnet? 

It's a harness.  I use it exclusively outdoors, and I do a mix of sport and trad, including multipitch (4-5 pitches max thus far).  I've never had to rig a hanging belay, and I've never done a big wall.  The gear loops are useful in that they are decently sized and stiff, so gear stays spaced out a bit.  I stopped climbing with a gear sling, so when I do trad, everything is on my harness.  It isn't uncomfortable, but I have never had a super cushie harness.

I just picked up the ultralight Petzl ski touring harness, the Altitude.  I think it'll work great for ski touring/glacier rambling but I suspect it's going to squish my junk if I have to hang in it for very long.  I've only had it a few days now so I haven't had a chance to test it out for anything other than fit.  It will fit well under the waist strap of a pack and it will pack easily into all but the tightest spaces in my pack and it has minimal gear loops for just what I'd want on a glacier (crevasse rescue rig).

My rock harness is a Mammut Togir but I'll probably replace it soon with something that has a little more coverage and padding for hanging belays and jugging fixed lines.  Other than those two situations I have found the Togir to be a great harness for trad cragging.

For a one harness quiver I'd be looking at the Sitta.

I have the Petzl Adjama and really like its versatility. The extra gear loop in the back is handy too. It's not the lightest out there, but it's built well and I find the functionality outweighs the... weight. 

Matt Himmelstein wrote: I picked up a Singing Rock Garnet a while back as my outdoor harness and I like it.  I don't climb alpine routes, but the harness buckles have a useful feature where they can be taken apart, allowing you put on or take the harness off without ever picking up your feet  This seems like it would be a handy feature for ski touring or mountaineering.
https://www.backcountry.com/singing-rock-garnet-harness-mens

Unless this harness is special in some other way I can't see then it can not be put on with your feet on the ground. Try it. The belay loop attaching the waist belt to the leg loops in a permanent way is what prevents it.

Check out the Mammut Altitude Harness. Do you see how the waist belt is through the belay loop but not sewn in any way? When the waist buckle is undone the belt comes out of the belay loop and the leg loops unbuckle allowing your feet to stay on the ground.

I use the Petzl Altitude for touring and alpine. It's very light, compact and you can put it on without taking off your ski's / crampons

It also has straps to secure 2 ice screws which is nice

Alex Fletcher wrote:

Unless this harness is special in some other way I can't see then it can not be put on with your feet on the ground. Try it. The belay loop attaching the waist belt to the leg loops in a permanent way is what prevents it.

Check out the Mammut Altitude Harness. Do you see how the waist belt is through the belay loop but not sewn in any way? When the waist buckle is undone the belt comes out of the belay loop and the leg loops unbuckle allowing your feet to stay on the ground.

The Singing Rock has buckles that completely come apart, both for the main harness and the leg loops.  It is essentially the same as unthreading the buckle, but way easier, safer, and much simpler to put back together.  I have take it off and put it back on without lifting either leg off the ground.  I have not tried it with gloves on, mainly because don't climb in the cold, but I expect that you could put it on easily enough with gloves on, taking it off may involve a level of dexteity you don't get with thicker gloves.

http://www.singingrock.com/rock-lock

Look at the camp alpine flash. I've climbed, trad climbed and am planning on ice climbing with it. It's tiny light and pretty comfy considering

Matt Himmelstein wrote:

The Singing Rock has buckles that completely come apart, both for the main harness and the leg loops.  It is essentially the same as unthreading the buckle, but way easier, safer, and much simpler to put back together.  I have take it off and put it back on without lifting either leg off the ground.  I have not tried it with gloves on, mainly because don't climb in the cold, but I expect that you could put it on easily enough with gloves on, taking it off may involve a level of dexteity you don't get with thicker gloves.

http://www.singingrock.com/rock-lock

Oh, that’s neat. Thanks for the info. 

Chris W wrote: Look at the camp alpine flash. I've climbed, trad climbed and am planning on ice climbing with it. It's tiny light and pretty comfy considering

+1, i do everything with it, gym, multi pitches, trad, alpine, ice. It doesn't open up like a dedicated 'alpine' harnesses, but never missed that, but way more comfortable. 

Check out the Camp Alpine Flash. Tiny, light, durable and cheap. Its pretty great.