Sliding X: Pros and Cons

I want your opinions on the sliding X anchor (please don’t bring your quad anchor opinions)! I love the sliding X so I’d love for you to trash it for me so I understand it’s limitations better - I’m a beginner looking to learn. When is it better not to use it? In those situations what is a better option? Thanks!

This topic has already been addressed on here:
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107084048/self-equalizing-vs-static-anchor

Pros:
-Constantly equalized
-Very quick setup requiring less gear

Cons:
-Lack of redundancy. Your trusting one sling vs two, and if one anchor of the sliding X blows, the other anchor will shock loaded causing a potential problem.
-Nylon on nylon friction.

I personally prefer an equalized static system. It may be slightly less adaptable, but waaayyy more redundant. 

It’s pretty good, but it could be better 

Jeff Luton wrote: It’s pretty good, but it could be better 

The OP wrote: "I’m a beginner looking to learn."

So, care to elaborate or provide a link?

http://kevin-heinrich.com/the-best-climbing-anchor-a-look-at-anchor-research/

I summarized most applicable anchor research looking at common constructions. It discusses a lot of "advanced considerations" but I think anyone can learn from it! Hope it helps.

It's rarely the best solution for the job. And if you're going to be clipping 2 carabiners to the masterpoint anyways then it's better to just clip the 2 strands between the limiter knots separately without the twist. That way you get less friction and therefore better load distribution.

Limiting extension is important, though, if any extension could throw the belayer off a stance and potentially cause the belayer to lose control of the belay. Also very important if anybody is clipped into the anchor with a static connection, without any dynamic component in the system.

I know you didn't ask for anything about the quad but I have a hard time imagining a situation where a sliding x is a better option than a quad. It's far better in terms of cutting redundancy, distributes the load better than the sliding x and offers 2 separate master points that can be weighted in opposing directions, which can be very useful on multi-pitch routes with small belay ledges.

Who has had an anchor piece blow anyways? 

Marc801 C wrote:

So, care to elaborate or provide a link?

Elaborating,

I use it every now and then to bring up the second but only when I’m leading several pitches in a row and don’t want to build the anchor off the rope for efficiency.It also comes in handy when there is a traversing pitch for the whole “equalization” thing all the kids are raving about.As far as the redundancy thing goes, it could be better and I find myself using it on easier routes where I’m pretty damn sure the second isn’t gonna fall. That said, it’s caught my girlfriend when a hold was just out of her reach, she was out of eyesight, and it was a pretty dynamic move to get the hold. It’s quick, it’s easy, but I’d feel better about it if there was more redundancy.

plastic princess wrote: I want your opinions on the sliding X anchor (please don’t bring your quad anchor opinions)! I love the sliding X so I’d love for you to trash it for me so I understand it’s limitations better - I’m a beginner looking to learn. When is it better not to use it? In those situations what is a better option? Thanks!

What fool is still teaching the sliding X?

To make perfectly clear what others have said: it extends, a lot, and it doesn’t equalize.

Mobes Mobesely wrote: Who has had an anchor piece blow anyways? 

Right here. Cleaning an aid lead on a crack with a hard lean to the left. Sliding x was moving way too much while jugging and pendji from each piece. Made for a great drop. The x worked but the beaner flew of the piece that failed!? 

A brief comment on “I love the sliding X”.  

It’s  great to have a favorite, but keep in mind, the reason there isn’t an “industry standard” on anchors and belays , is because climbing is multi-dimensional and very situational.  Just keep that in mind, have a few different tools in your bag, make good decisions and climb safe!

It's always in the tool box, it may not get used often but the few times it does get used, I'm happy to have left it in the tool box.

I've only set up a sliding x once. The only reason I can see to use them over a quad is to save time and I'd prefer 2 QDs over a sliding x if it's that big of a concern. My primary reason is that you are screwed if the sling becomes compromised in any way (rockfall cutting it, weak point, etc). Limiter knots mitigate this, but at that point you might as well tie a quad anyway. My quads stay set up and are long enough to sling over my shoulder so they aren't in the way when I'm climbing.

You know this all becomes so much simpler if you only use 1 anchor point.

You can always set a sliding x with two pieces, then clip a third piece to the master point with an extra sling. Then the third piece is independent of the sliding x and provides some redundancy.

Nice thing about this is that no cordellette / knotted quad is needed for the anchor. Just use a few slings.

That said I like others pointing out it's good to have lots of tools in the toolbox so to speak. Can research the route beforehand and think about your anchor setup of choice before ever stepping on the rock!