Grand teton in the winter

Anyone know what the OS like in the winter? I'm guessing heinous skin approach up the canyon to rime covered scrambling/climbing up top. Any actual ice climbing or just easy mixed up those chimneys? Or does it depend on conditions? 

Seems like every winter someone asks...April isn’t strictly winter. Depends on conditions but the OS never really has ice on it. Ford-Stettner is different but not really ‘in’ for ice conditions in winter and quite an avalanche hazard. When do you want to go? The amount of skinning early season really depends on the amount of snow obviously. If you want to do it in winter the skinning probably won’t be the heinous part. 

luke smith wrote: Seems like every winter someone asks...April isn’t strictly winter. Depends on conditions but the OS never really has ice on it. Ford-Stettner is different but not really ‘in’ for ice conditions in winter and quite an avalanche hazard. When do you want to go? The amount of skinning early season really depends on the amount of snow obviously. If you want to do it in winter the skinning probably won’t be the heinous part. 

Jan or Feb. 

The wyomingwhiskey blog says: "According to an American Alpine Club Journal article, in early March of 1949, Paul Petzoldt with two partners set out to climb the Grand. They took skis and rope, but no ice-axes or crampons. They reported that most of the climbing sections were free of ice and snow; however, there was a "heavy accumulation of frost feathers". The temperature at the lower saddle was reported to be -2° F." publications.americanalpine…

and....

"Low temperatures and less than ideal conditions keep many mountaineers off the Grand between December and the end of March but some find it exhilarating. Paul Petzoldt was often packing a bottle of champagne to the summit on New Year's Eve and taking NOLS students with him. The first "winter" ascent included Paul, Fred Brown (a Jackson Hole skiing pioneer), and Eldon Petzoldt on December 19, 1935. They had a balmy jacket-free day on the summit above a valley floor frozen at -20°F."

So, obviously, conditions will vary just like the weather. You're more likely to find snow than ice. Ice is often under the snow. If the snow is stable, it's pretty easy to get up and down the Grand if you're in excellent health and comfortable with winter mountaineering. The approach isn't bad with skis. Quicker descent, too.

Avalanche hazards are always a risk but there are travel lines that can keep you away from most hazards.

Most summer routes rarely see winter ascents. The Owen-Spalding is the most common winter route if you're not taking the couloirs (Stettner, Chevy, Ford). I'd rather take the couloirs if the snow is stable. There are plenty of winter (Dec through March) trip reports on the internet - mostly skiers. Nowadays, plain old winter mountaineering isn't as popular as ski mountaineering in the Tetons. Back when Andy Carson was guiding, that may have been the heyday of winter ascents by climbers who weren't skiers.

"April isn't winter": So true. However, conditions are often very similar. Every year is different so talk with a ranger, or recent climber, about conditions and hazards.

The ski up Garnet can be quite pleasant (used to do it just for fun--Middle and South Teton, Enclosure).  In stable conditions, there's not too much avalanche concern.  Wait for an extended high pressure system, and the up track will be in, avy conditions will be low (Garnet Canyon gets pretty wind blasted--avoid obvious windloaded pockets and you're good), and there'll probably be an inversion, where the peaks are much warmer than the valley.  I haven't been up the OS in the winter (did the Stettner), but I did rap it in the dark by headlamp (long day).  Winter temps with an inversion can be mild--climbed it in early February with a couple of shirts and a shell.