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Sprained A5 pulley

Original Post
rudedog205 · · River falls, WI · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

So a few days ago I hurt what I believe to be my A5 pulley in my left ring finger, I can still move it fine it just  hurts mildly and I have trouble climbing on it, I did this while finger board training it was going great till I got off from my last dead hang and I was wondering if anyone knew more about this type of injury as I can't seem to find much about it online as it's pretty rare. Also do any of you know some good grip strength exercises to do while I wait for this to heal that won't aggravate it? I don't want to sit around and lose to much progress because of a finger injury.

Lin Robinson · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 15

You’ll lose a helluva lot more progress by continuing to try to do stuff. 

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,836

Complete rest is the best solution for a full recovery.

Tommy B · · Lunenburg · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 5

There are a ton of things that it could be. If it still bothers you after 1-2 weeks you should see a specialist.
Be prepared it's going to set you back, finger injuries take a long time to heal. 

In my opinion a lot of people miss diagnose AX pulleys on this site. I tore the sheath around my tendon this summer and am still recouping.
My doctor was able to quickly rule out a pulley because I could bend my finger at each joint. He gave me a couple cortisone shots and told me to rest for a couple months while it heals.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3377907/ 

 

Eric Danner · · The People's Republic of Bo… · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

I ruptured my A5 here is what I did.

I took 2 months off from all climbing activity.(Pick up something new to fill the void. I actually got super into baking) You aren't going to lose that much strength or progress. Your climbing ability is in your skill not your strength all that other stuff comes back fast.

Once it started feeling better I bought the Rock Climbing Training Manual as all my friends suggested for finger injuries to follow a plan so you don't re injure it. I followed the beginners plan well below my ability in that. Pretty cool to see how going back to the basics can make you a much more talented climber. 

6 months later I am stronger than before. And I can bake a damn good cake.

So the point of this is to just quit climbing and let your body heal....or risk not being able to climb for a lot longer.    

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
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