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Wall harness..double back or quick adjust?

Original Post
Zach Raney · · Moab · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Workee out a deal with misty where they will make me a quick adjust titan vs the double backed buckles. Whats your preference?  I feel like double back buckles are a bit of a pain to cinch super snug. Quick adjusts can walk.  What do you like?

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916

Quick adjust creeps but it’s quick to adjust on route.

Zach Raney · · Moab · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0
kevin deweese wrote: Quick adjust creeps but it’s quick to adjust on route.

Totally. Easy fix for sure. Been on my fifi after a long pitch and seen it a little loose

Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 21

After you cinch the quick adjust buckle, tie an overhand knot around the webbing on the other side of the buckle (the webbing tight  against your waist that you just pulled into the buckle to cinch it tight).  

Moving my diaphragm to breath seems to work the buckle loose on my Arcteryx harness surprisingly quickly. The overhand not solves that problem.  

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
Live Perched wrote: After you cinch the quick adjust buckle, tie an overhand knot around the webbing on the other side of the buckle (the webbing tight  against your waist that you just pulled into the buckle to cinch it tight).  

Moving my diaphragm to breath seems to work the buckle loose on my Arcteryx harness surprisingly quickly. The overhand not solves that problem.  

exactly this-- i've used an overhead knot to limit creep during aid climbing. 

Grandpa Dave · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 5
Zach Raney wrote: Workee out a deal with misty where they will make me a quick adjust titan vs the double backed buckles. Whats your preference?  I feel like double back buckles are a bit of a pain to cinch super snug. Quick adjusts can walk.  What do you like?

My double back (Metolius safe tech) cinches up tight enough, and doesn't creep. I far prefer that style to the "quick cinch" types  (which I find usually aren't all that quick). Besides, I'm in no big hurry to harness up. Take it slow 'n easy.

Aaron Nash · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 212
Grandpa Dave wrote:

My double back (Metolius safe tech) cinches up tight enough, and doesn't creep. I far prefer that style to the "quick cinch" types  (which I find usually aren't all that quick). Besides, I'm in no big hurry to harness up. Take it slow 'n easy.

Agreed. 

I prefer the quick cinch buckles on my free harnesses, but not on a wall harness where you're repeatedly loading and unloading the harness (ie. hauling). My quick cinch harness loosened a lot when I tried hauling with it, which I really didn't like. It also loosened when I racked a bunch of gear on my harness too (but I don't do that anymore). Maybe it was just the type of webbing/buckle that harness had on it, I dunno. Just pointing out things to look out for. You can cinch up a double backed buckle really tight if you do it right, just practice 3-4 times and you'll find The Way. Just my 0.02...YMMV


The overhand knot above the buckle is a good idea...so simple that I wish I'd thought of that! I'd think that it might be harder with the thicker webbing belts on some of the wall harnesses, but I could see that working wonderfully on some of the smaller belts (like the arcteryx free harnesses).
Mikey Schaefer · · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233

I had metolius make me a big wall harness with the quick cinch instead of the standard double back buckle that is standard.  The metolius quick cinch buckles don't creep nearly as much as petzl or BD buckles in my experience.  In fact the metolius buckle doesn't seem to creep at all.  I prefer the quick cinch buckle as it allows me to add and remove layers of clothing easily.

Zach Raney · · Moab · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0
Aaron Nash wrote:

Agreed. 

I prefer the quick cinch buckles on my free harnesses, but not on a wall harness where you're repeatedly loading and unloading the harness (ie. hauling). My quick cinch harness loosened a lot when I tried hauling with it, which I really didn't like. It also loosened when I racked a bunch of gear on my harness too (but I don't do that anymore). Maybe it was just the type of webbing/buckle that harness had on it, I dunno. Just pointing out things to look out for. You can cinch up a double backed buckle really tight if you do it right, just practice 3-4 times and you'll find The Way. Just my 0.02...YMMV


The overhand knot above the buckle is a good idea...so simple that I wish I'd thought of that! I'd think that it might be harder with the thicker webbing belts on some of the wall harnesses, but I could see that working wonderfully on some of the smaller belts (like the arcteryx free harnesses).

Good point on hauling! Ive used a misty and it seems to creep a tiny bit and its 1in webb so the overhand seems like a fine compromise 

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

I have to flop around like a fish to get my Yates wall harness doubled back but after that, the thing never moves. I’m not so into convenience that a pre-threaded buckle on my wall harness is going to make that much of a big deal.

Being able to loosen or tighten it quickly to add or subtract layers would certainly be nice but it’s not a dealbreaker for me.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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