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5mm cord recommendation

Original Post
Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

Hi all. I need to buy some 5mm cordage for prussiks. Is there a particular brand that you recommend?  Has anyone found a gear review that may help me choose?

Cron · · Maine / NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 60

Just get the stuff cut from the reel at the local climbing shop. Don’t overthink it. 

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 424

What Cron said. No matter what cord you use, you should always test that your Prusik grabs the right amount before committing to it. If it grabs too little, add a turn to the Prusik knot, if it grabs too much, remove a turn. Some cords will require more or fewer turns, but any cord can be made to grab the right amount, so it really doesn't matter what cord you use.

That said, Sterling makes a cord specifically for Prusiks, which comes pre-sewn into a loop, is light and durable, and subjectively seems to be easy to get to grab the right amount. I do think it's better than the alternatives, but maybe not better enough to justify the price.

frog pirate · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

I like sterling accessory cord - nice and supple and grabs really well compared to other cord i've used (tendon). I use the 6mm though. 130cm of 6mm made into a loop using a double fishermans gives me enough to wrap 4 times around a double strand rap (klemheist) perfectly.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

You want the most supple/flexible you can get.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Jaren Watson wrote:

If that’s what you want, I hear there’s a deaf, dumb, and blind kid who’s got such a supple wrist.

Anyone recognize the reference? 

Pinball Wizard?

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,893

Tommy ?! .....( Careful, giving away your age)

Roots · · Wherever I am · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

I prefer 6mm.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Understood.

Exiled Michigander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 252

5 mm Beal Accessory cord off the reel at REI is 35 cents a foot.  4 ft. tied in a loop with a double fishermen's knot works great for a rappel back-up Prusik . . . you'll need longer if you're making a leg Prusik or Texas Prusik system.  They also sell 7 mm PMI Accessory Cord for 50 cents a foot if you want to make a cordalette (16 ft. works great for what I use it for [mainly sport anchors], but others prefer 18' or even 20').

David K. above references the Sterling Hollowblock.  Works great too and can be purchased at REI for around $13.  I always like the cheaper DIY method though.

Cron · · Maine / NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 60

Are folks who buy the $13 hollowblock the same as those that buy the pre-sliced veggies at the grocery store at a markup?

Cody Cox KC · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 46
Cron wrote: Are folks who buy the $13 hollowblock the same as those that buy the pre-sliced veggies at the grocery store at a markup?

I honestly thought the same of the hollowblock until I used my partners on the rappels off central pillar of frenzy. It works exactly the same, yes, but it felt safer. It never bunched strangely or had any of the threads cross like sometimes happens with the thin cords. the texture also made it faster to grab if you were to go completely hands free abruptly.

Is it really needed, nah. But it gave me enough piece of mind that I went and bought one.  

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

DiY 6mm prussik because you can never have too many utility slings around to thread this or that and back up tat.

Maximilian Tagher · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 65

I buy the 50 foot lengths of Sterling accessory cord from Backcountry. Much better than the PMI I got from REI. 50 foot may be too much for just a prusik cord though.

I use 6mm for prusiks, 7mm for anchors. 

CDub · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5
Cron wrote: Are folks who buy the $13 hollowblock the same as those that buy the pre-sliced veggies at the grocery store at a markup?

Sterling Hollow Block all the way. It's not the same as a cord that has been sewn (although I think somebody does sell something like this). It's a length of coarse-woven-sheathed cord with no core so that it makes a better friction knot. It's also made of kevlar for abrasion resistance and rated to 13kN. There's no cord out there that you could buy and tie that would have the same properties. Guides seem to like them, which suggests it's not a product for lazy gumbies. I've been using them for many years and they work well.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 424
Cron wrote: Are folks who buy the $13 hollowblock the same as those that buy the pre-sliced veggies at the grocery store at a markup?

Just one data point, but I'm a Hollow Block owner and a member of a CSA which doesn't always wash their vegetables let alone slice them. :D

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

You all got trolled!  Seriously? A debate over cordage?  Ha!    I was motivated to post this by another thread debating which slings are best. 

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276
Eric D wrote: You all got trolled!  Seriously? A debate over cordage?  Ha!    I was motivated to post this by another thread debating which slings are best. 

haha got em!.....

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Eric D wrote: You all got trolled!  Seriously? A debate over cordage?  Ha!    I was motivated to post this by another thread debating which slings are best. 

You must be very proud of your con job.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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