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Dmm offsets too good?

Original Post
Drew L · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

Recently I got dmm offset nuts and it seems like the nuts are really prone to getting stuck even without weighting them. Is this something I'm doing wrong while placing them or are they too bomber for their own good?

Jonathan Awerbuch · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 41

Yes, I think it's kind of an accepted phenomenon. I've always been able to get them out with enough work, unless they caught a fall. I'm willing to trade the cost of a nut for a decreased chance of getting hurt. If there's a real chance I'll fall on a placement, I set it quite firmly, and let the second deal with it. Otherwise, I don't set them too hard when I place them.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,550

Like the DMM Wallnuts, do not try "yanking" them out, they'll stick and you'll waste a lot of time getting them out.
Like Jonathan said, I prefer them being harder to remove than seeing them get wiggled out of place with rope drag.
Sometimes it's nice to have a hex on your harness to knock stubborn ones out.

Mark A · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 96

Interestingly some of the better crag booty I've gotten lately has been the DMM offsets, hoping I can get a full set eventually :-)

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,621

In my experience DMM offets, brass or alloy, are a little sharp around the edges and this is what causes them to get "stuck." After a while, and many placements, these sharp edges round out a bit and the pieces become much easier to remove. 

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989
Mark Andes wrote: Interestingly some of the better crag booty I've gotten lately has been the DMM offsets, hoping I can get a full set eventually :-)

I actually got my first DMM offset by using a hex as a hammer to pound on a nut tool to dislodge one. I liked it so much I bought a full set.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

I typically don't really yard on my nut placements to "set" them, just a gentle tug. I've never had an issue cleaning my alloy offsets or even the brass offsets I have. I've found that most nuts can easily be cleaned with some finesse and wiggling the wire with a little bit of force. Every now and then I have to push upward with my nut tool with a little bit of force (not enough to hurt my hand even with a BD nut tool) but I rarely have to hammer on the nut tool to get them out.

Now cleaning nuts placed by novices, on the other hand, is a different story. 

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

HB/DMM offsets basically only need a whisper of setting, a steady pull until you feel some grit suffices. And don't yank the stems of them or any nut up and out - leave the stem in the orientation you found it, figure out how it went in, and reverse that.

ryan albery · · Cochise and Custer · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 290
Andy Hansen wrote: In my experience DMM offets, brass or alloy, are a little sharp around the edges and this is what causes them to get "stuck." After a while, and many placements, these sharp edges round out a bit and the pieces become much easier to remove. 

The older style Peanuts used to come pre-rounded around the edges.  I'm sure it costs more to do this, especially in the smaller sizes, but it definitely makes them more secure to place and easier to remove.  From the gold size and above, I haven't found too much of a difference, but those littler ones sure do like to get stuck.  Still, I think they're the best nuts around.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

I think y'all need a lesson in cleaning nuts:

-Take your nut tool off your harness.
-Smack yer nut back the way from which you think it came.
-DON'T yank up on the wire!!! I see this way too much.

I've never lost a nut and been using the off-sets since they came out.

Yer welcome.

J A · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 45

My favorite gear.   You just have to back clean them if you can when climbing with certain partners who yank first and look at the placement second when it doesn't immediately fly out.

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

I set all my stoppers hard, and push on the wire to see if they lift out easily. They'd better stay if I'm falling on 'em. My biggest fall ever was a 40 footer on a tiny stopper, but it wasn't an RP. It wasn't a splitter placement, either. We have nut tools for a reason. And, they're the cheapest gear. 

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

It's not them it's you

Zacks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 65

So bomber!

I recall reading in some anchors book when I first started trad climbing that modern nuts have the curved shape to make cleaning easier.  The curve wouldn't work on an offset I assume.   I've always figured the offsets where harder to clean due to the strait sides.  I believe  very old non-offset nuts also had strait sides but I've never climbed on any like that so...

Hiro Protagonist · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290
Tradiban wrote: I think y'all need a lesson in cleaning nuts:

-Take your nut tool off your harness.
-Smack yer nut back the way from which you think it came.
-DON'T yank up on the wire!!! I see this way too much.

I've never lost a nut and been using the off-sets since they came out.

Yer welcome.

Yes, this usually works for me.  Tap with nut tool to unset it, then wiggle it out the way you think it was put into the constriction.

Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 76
Tradiban wrote: 
I've never lost a nut and been using the off-sets since they came out.

Since the 70s?

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Xam wrote:

Since the 70s?

Hook, line, and sinker. I will acknowledge your desire to have a stupid argument by ignoring it.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

The little gold one... the #7.  I feel like I place that on every pitch.  I probably place offsets more than regular nuts...  I haven't heard my second's complain about cleaning them yet.  They are great though.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

I just noticed that my Blue colored one is missing, but I know where it is. the second pitch of 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel. I leaned on that one a bit when I put it in.  

Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 76
Buck Rio wrote: I just noticed that my Blue colored one is missing, but I know where it is. the second pitch of 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel. I leaned on that one a bit when I put it in.  

Not there anymore.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Xam wrote:

Not there anymore.

Yeah, it was probably gone the next morning. My partner neglected to mention that he couldn't get it out.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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