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Hueco Tanks Wanker 101?

Original Post
skelldify · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 464

I found this list in an old issue of climbing and thought it'd be fun to try to check them all off in a weekend. However, at least the first 10 aren't listed on mtn project. Are they off-limits now, or just missing from the database?

Mike Grainger · · Waterloo, ON Canada · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 636

Some are off limits, see here:

https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/hueco-tanks/climbing-closure-list

Note - the Warm Up Boulder proper is closed, but several of the listed problems are on nearby walls and are open.

These problems are all listed in the Sherman bouldering guidebook.  

AndyMac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 1,133

Why the hell is the warmup boulder is closed?

Mike Grainger · · Waterloo, ON Canada · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 636

I don't remember exactly, but I think it was because of erosion.  Or they could have discovered an invisible to the naked eye pictograph.

Andrew V · · Denver CO · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 55

The Wanker 101 was originally meant as a single day event. Some buddies and myself did it a few years back prior to the Warmup Boulder closure. At that point in time with the listed optional routes we were able to eek out 101 routes and fit all the rules. I'm not sure if that's still the case. It took us a couple of attempts to fit all the climbs in a single day. Know your route through the park to get it all done efficiently. Wear a comfortable pair of shoes and be ready to run through the park in them. Highly recommended, we had a blast.

David Rice · · San Antonio, TX · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 548

I added some notes to the wanker out of boredom about a year ago.  It notes closures, bad landings, high balls, and random information from mountain project.  Many of these problems are not listed on mountain project.  

END LOOP (closed) #22 pg. 87
 1. Slam Dip (V0)
 2. Arêtey or Not (V0)

DELIVERANCE #20 pg. 85
 3. To-Bo or Not to Be (V0)
 4. Jellyroll Jamboree (V0)
 5. Sir Nose D’voidoffunk (V0 R)
 6. No Scruples (V0)
 7. North Deliverance Left (V1)
 8. North Deliverance Middle (V2)
 9. North Deliverance Right (V1)
 10. South Deliverance East Face Left (V1) (bad landing)
 11. South Deliverance East Face Right (V1) (bad landing)
 12. Albino Simpleton (V1)
 O. Squeal Like a Pig (V0)
 O. Manly Stuff (V4)

MUSHROOM BOULDER (north face is closed) #19 pg. 82
 13. Family Size (V0)
 14. Busted (V0)
 15. Legal High (V0)

HAIRY AND SCARY #18 pg. 78
 16. Indians Laying on Dawn’s Highway Bleeding (V0)
 17. Tobacco-Chewing Gut-Chomping Kinfolk From Hell (V0)
 18. Butt Buddy (V0)
 19. Saxon Tactics (V0)
 20. Top Guy (V0)
 21. Gay Abandon (V0)
 22. The Sphincter (V0)
 23. Dingleberry Jones and the Lost Crusade (V0)
 24. Hard Wipe (V0)
 25. The Hashmarker (V0)
 26. Feces of the Ages (V0)
 27. Boo (V0)
 28. Eek-a-Mouse (V0)
 29. The Melon Patch (V0) (high ball bad landing ****MP)
 O. Epilady (V1)
 O. Shaved Pits (V2)
 O. Five O’Clock Shadow (V2)

SPLIT BOULDER #17 pg. 76
 30. Banana Split (V0)
 31. Split Crack (V0) (high ball good landing ***MP)
 32. Split Shift (V0)
 33. Split Ends (V0)
 34. Split Crack, Jr. (V0)
 35. Splitting Hairs (V0)
 36. 7-10 Split Left (V0) (**MP)
 37. Splitter Splatter (V1)

LUNCH ROCKS #15 pg. 72
 38. Wonderhole (V0) (V1)
 39. Orifice Affair (V1) (V2/3 a hold broke)
 40. Tell Mama (V1)
 41. Turtle Wax (V0) (closed)
 42. The Dripping Gash (V0)
 43. The Thighburner (V1) (problem is closed)
 44. Vanilla Smoothie (V0)

ASYLUM BOULDER #10 pg. 66
 45. Asylum Crack (V0) (V3)
 46. Asylum Slab (V0)

WARM-UP BOULDER (boulder is closed)
 47. Loopzilla (V0)
 48. Elder Statesman (V0)
 49. Young Man Blues (V0)
 50. Dumbo (V0)
 51. Bitch Magnet (V0)
 52. Rumble in the Jungle (V0)
 53. Ju-Ju Wall Right (V0)
 54. Ju-Ju Wall Center (V0)
 55. Ju-Ju Wall Left (V0)
 56. Big Shot (V0)
 O. Thunderbird (V1)
 O. Backscratcher (V2)
 O. The Butter Dish (V2)

MAMMARY LANE #8 pg. 63
 57. Home of the D-Cups (V0) (**MP)

MICHAEL KENYON #7 pg. 59
 58. Chocolate Thunder (V1)
 59. Tralfaz (V0)
 60. Ah-So (V0)
 61. Mission Impossible (V0)
 62. IM Force (V0)

GUMS #4 pg. 52
 63. Gums (V2) (bad landing when up high ****MP)
 64. Gums Slab (V1)
 65. Root Canal (V0)
 O. Any line on the slab left of Gums (V0)
 O. Speak to Me Oh Toothless One (V1) (***MP)

SIGN OF THE CROSS #5 pg. 56
 66. Lughead (V0)
 O. Sign of the Cross (V3)

TERM BOULDER #5 pg. 56
 67. Mid-Term (V1) (**MP)
 68. Short Term Memory (V0) (bad landing *MP)
 69. Memento (V0) (***MP)
 70. Long Term Memory (V0) (**MP)

NEW MEADOW #25 pg. 94
 71. Mothertrucker (V0) (V1 **MP)
 72. Gumby Traverse (V1) (*MP)
 O. Gumby Direct (V0) (**MP)
 O. Look at Me (V1)
 O. Money Sucks (V2)
 O. Blackmail (V3)
 O. Fici’s (V1)
 O. The Sweat Shop (V2)

GYMNASIUM #31 pg. 102
 73. Solid Pleasure (V0)
 74. World Without Lawyers (V0)
 75. Jimmy Hats on Parade (V0)
 O. The Belly Bomber (V1)
 O. Celebrity Simulator (V0)
 O. Return Business (V0)
 O. Thumper (V0)
 O. 40 Ounce King (V0)

SMALL POTATOES #30 pg. 100
 76. Rotten Traverse (V0)
 77. Man of Leisure (V0) (V0- **MP)
 78. Spud Boy (V1) (PG13 *MP)
 79. Eye Gouger (V0)
 80. Mashed Potato (V1)
 81. The Peeler (V0)
 82. Suckah Inna Yucca (V0)
 83. Mr. Potato Head (V0) (V1 bad landing)
 84. Bassin’ (V0) (V0+ **MP)
 85. The Honey Hole (V0) (**MP)
 86. Chive Sucker (V0) (**MP)
 87. Baco Bit Left (V0)
 88. Bawl and Chain (V0)
 89. Men in Chains (V0) (***MP)
 90. Women in Chains (V0)
 O. Cast Iron (V1)

BIG TIME AND THE GRENADE #32 pg. 104
 91. Little Big Time (V0)
 92. Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2) (****MP)

SUMMIT BOULDERS #37 pg. 116
 93. Navajo Bubba (V0)
 94. The Colonel’s Secret Recipe (V0)
 95. Easy Dilator (V0)
 96. The Laughing Sutra (V0) (V0+ ***MP)

BABYFACE #35 pg. 112
 97. Aftershave (V0)
 98. Aqua Velva (V0)
 99. Brut (V0) (highball **MP)

 100. The Used Blade (V0) (V0+ *MP)
 O. Dry Shave (V2)
 O. The Unused Blade (V0)

GHETTO SIMULATOR #23 pg. 88
 101. Ghetto Simulator (V2) (****MP)

David Arredondo · · Austin, TX · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 15

Commenting to have access to the list above.
Thanks for making it!

skelldify · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 464

Wow, I knew I could count on you guys. Thank you!!!

skelldify · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 464

I tried this Monday and Tuesday this week. Some of the problems on the list clearly haven't been climbed in years, as they have large bushes or trees growing in front of them, Ju-Ju Wall Right, and Gums Slab, for example. Also, as noted above, some of them are closed. Just be prepared to make some substitutions!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Bouldering
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