Climb or traing first?

Hey,

Wondering what people do - do you tend to climb first (say you're going to climb 1.5-2 hours) and then train, or do you train (and possibly climb after)?

Obviously if you're going to attempt 1-5-9, probably not do it after hard climbing, but for other reasonable exercises?

EDIT: let's say training is non-climbing training (e.g. some sort of exercises). As to what type (strength/hypertrophy/endurance, core, finger board, campusing...) then feel free to specify what you consider in your own evaluation.

Recommendation is to typically climb first as it is a skill sport and form deteriorates as you get progressively tired.  

There is the added benefit that by climbing first you should be fully warmed-up for what ever training is to follow.

By “train” I’m assuming you mean specifically non-climbing exercises? (Because there is lots of climbing training that IS climbing!)

I’d say it depends.

 If I’m planning to hangboard in a climbing gym, the ideal thing for me is to do about 20 min of very easy climbing before hang-boarding. I do non-climbing warmup if I hang at home, but climbing warmup is ideal, IMO. 

If campusing, I would do a longer climbing warmup, and some easy bouldering, but definitely less than an hour, so I’m not fatigued before trying to campus.

If “training” means some nin climbing core exercises, or antagonist muscles, or something, then I’d climb normally, and do these things at the end. If training means deadlifts and muscle ups and such, I would do it on nonclimbing days. 

I don't necessarily mean anything too specific at this point - I certainly do have my own opinions on this, but I've talked to some people and the conversations I've had about this seem to indicate there's a wide variety of practices and opinions on this. I'm kinda partial towards training-first. Mostly because I believe that whatever activity (beyond reasonable warm-up) you do first will be the one that will see the most benefits. So if I'm going to spend time/energy on training, might as well maximize it. Otherwise I'd just climb....

But yeah I do agree it kinda depends on the type of training - will clarify in the opening post.

Rui Ferreira wrote: Recommendation is to typically climb first as it is a skill sport and form deteriorates as you get progressively tired.  

There is the added benefit that by climbing first you should be fully warmed-up for what ever training is to follow.

Okay, but if you climb fairly continuously (e.g. not just socializing) for 1.5 to 2 hours, you're past warmup, at least for me.

definitely agree with rui.  climb first (i like reboot's use of the word "practice" for this climbing).  then train after.

I really think it depends on the type of training you are doing. If you are doing strength/power oriented work, I would put that early in the session (after a suitable for you warm up). If you're doing low-end aerobic endurance type stuff, then probably at the end. I don't really do much mid-range stuff, but when I do I typically do it mid-session, after warming up and then spending some time working out moves on the boulders I will be using. Also, if a climber is seeking to improve, then probably that 1.5-2 hours of "climbing" should be structured and intentional as well, and should be thought of more like practice than as a climbing session.

Just one more perspective.
-Xan

Franck Vee wrote: Hey,

Wondering what people do - do you tend to climb first (say you're going to climb 1.5-2 hours) and then train, or do you train (and possibly climb after)?

Obviously if you're going to attempt 1-5-9, probably not do it after hard climbing, but for other reasonable exercises?

EDIT: let's say training is non-climbing training (e.g. some sort of exercises). As to what type (strength/hypertrophy/endurance, core, finger board, campusing...) then feel free to specify what you consider in your own evaluation.

Do you think Wayne Gretsky did any "training"?!! Hell no.

Most of my “training” is spent climbing with a targeted goal. I do a strength session (resistance training and hangboard) once a week off season or 10–14 days in season. My warm up is ~20 minutes of climbing and the strength work takes an hour. I’ve got the whole session done before work.

I’ve done the strength work after 2 hours of bouldering. Results were poor and performance inconsistent.