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NC: Eno River State Park bouldering - How to request climbing access

Original Post
Raymond St Joseph · · Durham · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 6

Does anyone know the appropriate course of action to get bouldering authorized at Eno River State Pak, and what the likelihood of getting approval is? Holden Mill Trail has some excellent boulders.

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

t’s something the CCC could take up with the park. They haven’t been real open to it in the past, but I’d be willing to talk to them after the storm waters clear out and things settle down. I don’t know that the boulders are excellent, but they are decent and worth a shot.  

Raymond St Joseph · · Durham · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 6

Awesome Brian! That would great. I am still fairly new to climbing (3 years mostly indoors), and recently joined the CCC. Maybe "excellent" wasn't the right word, but I was excited to see them when I was hiking around Eno a few weekends ago.

Here are the coordinates for boulders on Holden Mill Trail for reference - 36°05'12.7"N 79°00'54.0"W 

Raymond St Joseph · · Durham · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 6
Brian Payst wrote: t’s something the CCC could take up with the park. They haven’t been real open to it in the past, but I’d be willing to talk to them after the storm waters clear out and things settle down. I don’t know that the boulders are excellent, but they are decent and worth a shot.  

Hey Brian,

Bringing this up again, as most of the bridges and work to get debris from last year's hurricanes has been complete (I say this because I'm part of the Friends of the MST volunteer group that helps out Eno, and have done a lot of the work!). 
Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

I’ll reach out to the park in the next couple of weeks and see what they say. 

Andre Chiquito · · Seneca Rocks, WV · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 778

This may or may not be helpful, but about three years ago I was hiking to a campsite with a sleeping pad that resembled a bouldering crash mat and bumped into a ranger who asked if I was going bouldering. His tone was pretty clear that I would be in trouble if that was the case, so I've been of the mind that they don't look very kindly towards bouldering there since then.
Here's hoping I'm wrong, though, I'd love to climb out there!

Carter Neely · · Durham, NC · Joined May 2019 · Points: 65

Is bouldering not allowed at the Eno? I’ve never seen it specifically prohibited. 

Mike R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 2,959

Sadly, Orphaned User's assesment of NC State Parks is correct. Carolina Climbers Coalition tries our darndest to get new areas open all over the place. NC State Parks default to 'no climbing' unless otherwise stated. Eagle Rock in Chimney Rock State Park is the first example in recent history of being able to expand that open climbing within an NC State Park. National Forest, private lands, gamelands, municipalities, etc each have different takes on it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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