Wedge bolts, clean vs uncleaned hole strength.
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I was curious if anyone had data on strength for a wedge bolt with a blown out/bushed hole vs a hole that was not cleaned. I know it is a big deal with glue ins, but couldn't see it being critical with a wedge. I ask because I recently set a 12mm wedge for a 2 bolt single pitch anchor and am not 100% sure I blew the hole out, and I know I forgot to brush it. It took spec torque, near 40lbs, just fine and set appropriately deep as I had overdrilled. It seems solid and holds weight fine. I will funk test it as well. Just curious if there is any reason I should consider sinking it and placing a new bolt or if it is nbd. Thanks! |
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It´s fine and you need to do nothing, you´ve already tested it by torquing it up. The standard tightening torque for metric wedge bolts tests them to around 20kN (for whatever thread you have got on yours you can look up the compression force/torque tables on the internet). This is the reason for the tightening torque, to test the bolts installation and it is common to apply the test torque then use another lower value for whatever is being fastened. |
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Caveat that doesn't apply to most: |
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Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Caveat that doesn't apply to most: Well yes but!!!! Dust in the hole can certainly make them a bit "soft" to take up but the minimum embedded depth is only related to concrete, not the bolt. You need the depth to get a large enough cone of fracture for whatever material you are bolting in and in granite I have succesfully tested resin anchors down to 20mm embedded depth. In fact my local climbing wall uses drop-in inserts in extremely high quality concrete and they test out fine with only 25mm. The standard requires an embedded 5x the diameter for bolt-ins but in granite or other good rock (especially with 1/2" bolts) I can´t say I´d get too concerned about going a bit lower, I´ve installed hundreds myelf |
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Thank you both for the info! Harumpfs answer brought up another question in my mind. Assuming his above scenario of the bolt have set above a depth you are comfortable with, what do you do with that bolt? Can you back off the nut and bang it in deeper + retorque? I assume there is some risk of a spinner if you damage the sleeve in the process. |
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Taotao 1 wrote: Thank you both for the info! Harumpfs answer brought up another question in my mind. Assuming his above scenario of the bolt have set above a depth you are comfortable with, what do you do with that bolt? Can you back off the nut and bang it in deeper + retorque? I assume there is some risk of a spinner if you damage the sleeve in the process. Jim makes an excellent point that it really comes down to the rock quality. Rarely we do come across some rotten granite that was previously under hummocks that seem to practically digest the rock but have to use it to protect some sections of routes. This becomes a little sketchy if the bolt doesn't torque up right away, imo.Point being that in ideal Granite (something like 20-50k PSI hardness) you can be remarkably shallow and not have any trouble with producing a "cone" of rock failure that occurs in softer stuff. Jim knows way more about it than I do, but as I understand it most of the shear rating for bolts comes down to the crushing of the soft concrete (ie 3-5k PSI) below the bolt and it then pulls out. If your stone is very good this doesn't happen in any climbing scenario imaginable. The minimum embed depth is based on this soft concrete testing and only when we are obligated to place in bad stone does it become an issue for us. This is my understanding anyways, hopefully Jim can provide us with a more educated elucidation. DO NOT try and hammer the bolt in and try again. If it torques up well you have to decide to use it or not, or pull it and patch it and use another hole. For wedge anchors the 4-tipped type drills produce a better round hole and a non-round hole is probably the issue with bolts failing to torque up quickly. |
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It´s all a bit complicated and variable! Normally you can trust if the bolt takes the specified torque then it will hold the force given but if the rock isn´t continous then life gets difficult, the extreme being bolting in conglomerate where if the bolt is through a pebble then it has enough strength to hold the cone and provide the required torque. But the pebble pulls out! That´s why the standard specifies the distance apart for the tester support legs. |