What’s the best rope diameter for trad?

• Just wore out my 9.8mm 60m rope that is used from sport climbing to trad to a little big wall. I got a BD 10.2mm for big wall but it’s a bitch for just trad climbing. For a trad specific rope what diameter is best? Mostly doing multipitch. 

It's 98% personal preference. So if you liked your 9.8, that's your answer. If you didn't, well, as the cookbooks say, "adjust to taste".

Gunkiemike wrote: It's 98% personal preference. So if you liked your 9.8, that's your answer. If you didn't, well, as the cookbooks say, "adjust to taste".

+ Also depends where you primarily climb

I've used my 9.0 nano as my all around sport and multipitch trad rope. If I know a group will be TRing with  me or I'm climbing in Joshua tree, I use a 9.4

Long mulitpitch with a walk off and little to no rappeling, I like twins. If i'll be simu climbing and more than 3 pitches I like a 9.6/9.7.  I prefer not to carry gloves, so anything smaller can be annoying to rappel on. If pushing the grade and falling/hang dogging a thicker line can have advantages. As Crag Hag and Gunkiemike said....it depends.

I think rope diameter is a function of how often you lead fall and how many sharp edges are in your climbing areas.  If you plan to work trad routes like people work sport routes then get a rope suitable for sport climbing.  If the rock you climb on has lots of sharp edges buy a thicker rope.

I started climbing when the only choice was 11 mm for single ropes and 9 mm for doubles.  Now I climb on a mammut serenity 8.7 mm rope (tripe rated as single double or twin).   Rarely, if I am concerned about sharp edges I fold it in half and do shorter pitches using the rope as a double or twin.  I rarely lead fall (maybe once or twice per year) on trad routes and have a 9.6 mm rope for working routes if that is what I want to do.    I love my serenity and I am on my second one.  The first one lasted 3 years of weekly multi pitch climbing about what I got out of my previous 9.6 and 10.2 ropes.  I walk 0.5 - 2.5 hours to get to the climbs so weight is a great concern.

I cannot imagine buying a 9.8 after having my skinny rope.  I think you will be happier with a 9.2 - 9.4.  If you go for a super skinny (sub 9mm) rope make sure your belay device works well with it.   Consider if you have any issue controlling your rappel or holding your partner while top roping you will be unable to stop a severe fall.   I have bought all my regular partners alpine ups that work well with my rope.  I don't think ATC like devices really work well with such skinny ropes.  Certainly you have to belay with two carabiners in the rope which is just a pain in the ass.  One partner tried it for a day and gave up.

Another option for trad climbing is doubles/twins.  I also have a pair mammut double/twin 8.0mm ropes.  They are good for parties of 3, routes with required long rappels, and routes with sharp edges. They are really good ropes too but even skinny double/twins weigh more than a skinny single so I don't use them very often.  

Daniel Melnyk wrote:

• Just wore out my 9.8mm 60m rope that is used from sport climbing to trad to a little big wall. I got a BD 10.2mm for big wall but it’s a bitch for just trad climbing. For a trad specific rope what diameter is best? Mostly doing multipitch. 

Ive tried them all, 9.6 is where its at. Anything smaller wears out too fast, anything bigger is too damn heavy.

"I think rope diameter is a function of how often you lead fall and how many sharp edges are in your climbing areas."

Good advice above.  I personally use a 9.2 most of the time, but I will also use an 8.8 that's rated as single/twin/double, on easier, slabby routes, especially if we have to carry a second rope to rap.

How often do you climb?
What kind of rock?
How long do you want it to last?

Rope diameter is only one measure.  Weight, sheath %, UIAA falls held are others.  Then there's more subjective stuff like handling and durability.  I usually use a 9.5  dry cover mammut.  I like it alot, it just keeps going, it's relatively light per meter.  Climbed recently on 9.8 and 10.1 petzls, it felt wayy faster and harder to control on raps/lowers, and was a much softer rope, even though bigger and heavier.  In general I would say a dry cover 70m rope between 9.2 and 9.8 can handle just about any situation. Dry cover ropes tend to resist abrasion way better, extending the useful life of the rope significantly and only adding just a small % to the cost.