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Mn Hjhjj
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Sep 12, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2018
· Points: 0
What's the proper way to fix a z clip in the gym? For a backclip you just unclip and reclip properly, but for a z clip?
Anyone have a link to a video/page demoing this?
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Calvin Coffin
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Sep 12, 2018
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Concord, MA
· Joined May 2016
· Points: 155
Prevention is key. If ya goof, downclimb
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NRobl
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Sep 12, 2018
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Hyrum, UT
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 1
You can just unclip the lower of the two draws involved in the Z.
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Paul Hutton
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Sep 12, 2018
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Nephi, UT
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 740
NRobl wrote: You can just unclip the lower of the two draws involved in the Z. Then clip the lower draw back into the rope after making the correction. https://youtu.be/T8A1XQ8Qmak (z-clipping/ zen therapy video)
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David K
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Sep 12, 2018
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The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 424
Paul Hutton wrote: Then clip the lower draw back into the rope after making the correction. https://youtu.be/T8A1XQ8Qmak (z-clipping/ zen therapy video) I know it's technically safer to do this, but if the draws are so close together that z-clipping is even possible, I'd view this as a waste of time and energy.
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Andrew Rice
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Sep 12, 2018
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 11
NRobl wrote: You can just unclip the lower of the two draws involved in the Z. This. And ask your belayer to take up the slack when you do. Then climb on.
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Paul Hutton
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Sep 13, 2018
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Nephi, UT
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 740
David Kerkeslager wrote: I know it's technically safer to do this, but if the draws are so close together that z-clipping is even possible, I'd view this as a waste of time and energy. bolts break sometimes. Get stronger.
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Phil Lauffen
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Sep 13, 2018
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Innsbruck, AT
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 3,113
Paul Hutton wrote: bolts break sometimes. Get stronger. truth. also you should use lockers for every carabiner. They can come unclipped.
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Andrew Rice
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Sep 13, 2018
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 11
Phil Lauffen wrote: truth. also you should use lockers for every carabiner. They can come unclipped. Plus, why use only one rope, that could break, when you could use 2 or 3?
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Jeffrey Constine
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Sep 13, 2018
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 674
Don't go to the gym, problem solved.
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Jordy Clements
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Sep 13, 2018
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Incline Village, NV
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 41
Deal with the rope drag and the shame that comes with it. When I'm climbing poorly, I find the easiest 5.6 in the gym and z-clip every bolt, and then at the top I wrap the rope under my armpits and get slowly lowered like a Halloween effigy. Tends to disrupt the gumbies in belay class.
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David K
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Sep 13, 2018
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The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 424
Jordy Clements wrote: Deal with the rope drag and the shame that comes with it. When I'm climbing poorly, I find the easiest 5.6 in the gym and z-clip every bolt, and then at the top I wrap the rope under my armpits and get slowly lowered like a Halloween effigy. Tends to disrupt the gumbies in belay class. Z-clip every bolt? I'm trying to imagine what z-clipping two bolts in a row looks like.
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Andrew Rice
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Sep 13, 2018
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 11
David Kerkeslager wrote: Z-clip every bolt? I'm trying to imagine what z-clipping two bolts in a row looks like.
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Go Back to Super Topo
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Sep 13, 2018
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Lex
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 285
Paul Hutton wrote: bolts break sometimes. Get stronger. How do you clean routes with this mentality?? Genuinely curious...
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Sam Sala
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Sep 13, 2018
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Denver, CO
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 82
MrZ wrote: How do you clean routes with this mentality?? Genuinely curious... Downclimb. Duh. (not a genuine reply)
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Paul Hutton
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Sep 13, 2018
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Nephi, UT
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 740
MrZ wrote: How do you clean routes with this mentality?? Genuinely curious... I'm so strong, I think about cleaning and the route hands me the gear before I tell it to. Does that answer the question?? Genuine answer: I don't understand the question. How do i take a QD off a bolt? How do i lower off the top anchor if I'm worried about both bolts shearing? How do i drive my car if I'm worried about crashing? How do I live if I'm worried about dying?
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Paul Hutton
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Sep 13, 2018
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Nephi, UT
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 740
Mike wrote: The OPs question was about a gym situation. Odds of a bolt breaking, especially in a gym: very very low. Also, if you're going to engage in that level of shenanigans, unclip the top bolt and clip correctly? Oh yea, i forgot. People prefer gym memberships, short approaches, and to avoid using their QDs after intentionally dropping $80 on a 6 pack. Gym bolts won't break. Maintenance is what your membership dollars go to.
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Paul Hutton
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Sep 13, 2018
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Nephi, UT
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 740
Mike wrote: Well as long as we're being snarky: Oh yea, I forgot, people don't read what they respond to. I was trying to get the topic back on track by suggesting a potentially less taxing method instead of fueling unfounded fears. OP didn't find the video on their own. Question was answered in a matter of minutes. What is there to get back on track? Time to troll and demo the thread lol! Jk, let's keep each other formal and serious. Adjust your neck tie and brush your shoulder off. Break's over. I'm on a road trip from Idaho to Missouri.
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