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Trango Phase quickdraw - broken rubber attachment

Original Post
Ron Roy · · Hong Kong · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

Any Trango Phase users out there having issues with the rubber attachment breaking off on the blue biner? I got these cos they are super lightweight and great for travel but I am already down 3 in a 6-pack within 4 months. Check the photos for what I mean. Any ideas how this can be fixed? I am currently keeping the dogbone in place with plastic wraps.

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

Get a better brand. Good luck.

stolo · · Lake Norman, NC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 214

Before you take the biners off, spit in the black rubber keeper so it slides off without breaking

Rob warden The space lizard · · Now...where? · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Wrap them in tape... 

C Limenski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 15

I have a bunch of the same dogbones - tape on the biner (or around biner/dogbone if you won't be taking the biner out), as mentioned above, is a good solution.

I've also been fine just working the broken rubber part under the dogbone and letting friction hold things together (I am not using the trango biners however so YMMV)
Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

This is not an issue. Draw strength is not affected.

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,611

^^^+1^^^ A non-issue as the strength of the quickdraw is not affected. Lubricate the keeper (saliva, water, etc) prior to inserting the carabiner. Don't compulsively remove and/or replace the carabiner in the quickdraw.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

Get yourself some Petzl String, it works with any biner and pretty much any dog-bone or sling. It has the added advantage of protecting the webbing material from abrasion at the point of connection to the biner.

String

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

You know you can still use them right????  You are not down to 3 draws because the keeper broke, you still have six draws theater perfectly fine.  This is a non issue.  

Bryan K · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 652

Small rubber o-rings work well.  I have a few phase quickdraws I made with Metolius dogbones that didn't have an integrated keeper, so I used them.  They are very cheap and work well with the skinnier dyneema.  You can get a 10 pack of various sizes at any home improvement store for a few bucks.

T Maino · · Mount Pleasant, SC · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5
Buck Rio wrote: Get yourself some Petzl String, it works with any biner and pretty much any dog-bone or sling. It has the added advantage of protecting the webbing material from abrasion at the point of connection to the biner.

String
Personally, I would not use the Petzl string for any open (i.e. non dogbone) sling.

If the sling clips back thru the 'biner you wind up with a situation where the sling is only held to the 'biner with the rubber String.    It is particularly dangerous, because it will appear that everything is OK until you weight the sling.

Petzl's documentation on this product warns of this issue
Please see the link below for a better explanation.  The video explaining the failure is titled "Safety Video - The Danger of Open Quickdraws".  It is torward the end of the page.

This has been argued on MTN project before...   This info is just FYI.

Tom

https://www.epictv.com/article/climbing/how-make-alpine-quickdraw
Eugenel Espiritu · · Pennsylvania · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,620

I bought the 16cm and 12cm dogbones from trango. This happened to me for 16cm. The dogbones are still fine to use; use something else to keep them  in place so they dont spin. @bkozak idea of O-Rings sounds good. 

Alexander Stathis · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 657

My Wild Country Heliums did this too, and I just ripped the black thing out and climbed on. It seems to be a design flaw with the thin dynema dogbones and the rubber inside.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
T. Maino wrote: Personally, I would not use the Petzl string for any open (i.e. non dogbone) sling.

If the sling clips back thru the 'biner you wind up with a situation where the sling is only held to the 'biner with the rubber String.    It is particularly dangerous, because it will appear that everything is OK until you weight the sling.

Petzl's documentation on this product warns of this issue
Please see the link below for a better explanation.  The video explaining the failure is titled "Safety Video - The Danger of Open Quickdraws".  It is torward the end of the page.

This has been argued on MTN project before...   This info is just FYI.

Tom

https://www.epictv.com/article/climbing/how-make-alpine-quickdraw

I think the only people in danger of this happening to are grossly incompetent. It sure doesn't appear everything is ok to me on that, it looks really fucked up. 

And who puts a String on an alpine draw??? It would add weight and decrease the flexibility of being able to re-purpose that biner. But I guess it must have injured or killed someone at some point so the Mfr. has to cover the bases. Kind of like kids that eat Tide Pods.

Choss Wrangler · · Elkview, WV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 65

Just use rubber bands man

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

BTW cheap as shыt bunch of rubber rings for money makes a lot (and I mean it, a lot) of rope side binner keepers.

T Maino · · Mount Pleasant, SC · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5
Buck Rio wrote:

I think the only people in danger of this happening to are grossly incompetent. It sure doesn't appear everything is ok to me on that, it looks really fucked up. 

And who puts a String on an alpine draw??? It would add weight and decrease the flexibility of being able to re-purpose that biner. But I guess it must have injured or killed someone at some point so the Mfr. has to cover the bases. Kind of like kids that eat Tide Pods.

Buck,  It's a little more subtle when people use a rubber band.   It was enough of a problem to hurt the poor kid in link below.    I agree that it would be easy to see if you happen to look, but it's just more thing that can go wrong...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/12-year-old_tito_traversa_dies_in_climbing_fall-68190

Ron Roy · · Hong Kong · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

Thank you everyone for your responses. Trango has actually agreed to send me new dogbones. But I'm really curious - how does string or rubber bands help? Can someone pls post a picture or photo?

Bryan K · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 652
Ron Roy · · Hong Kong · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

O ring



BTW, Cypher and Trango are the same stuff just branded differently.  I had the same issue with Cypher draws. Trango is kind to replace yours, but the design is inherently flawed and those rubber keepers fail regularly. There is absolutely no hazard using o-rings on dog bones (not open slings) and to me it is less hassle to just have o-rings on hand rather than dealing with returns/replacement. YMMV.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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