Point Dume Anchor Setup

Newb here wondering how I can setup an anchor to top rope the west wall of Dume. How straightforward is it? What should I bring and what are the bolts like?

[btw sorry if this type of stuff is typically posted at the area page -- newb]

Justin Barham wrote: Newb here wondering how I can setup an anchor to top rope the west wall of Dume. How straightforward is it? What should I bring and what are the bolts like?

[btw sorry if this type of stuff is typically posted at the area page -- newb]

It's been a year or more since I was there but the bolts on top were fine. Your issue, as a newbie, is going to be getting the master point set up correctly. The bolts are set back from the cliff edge considerably on the beach side. When I take people there I bring a long piece of static rope to be able to get my master point over the real drop. A couple quickdraws can also help as directionals for some of the climbs.

Feel free to PM me if you need any more input. 

Señor Arroz wrote:

Feel free to PM me if you need any more input. 

Thanks I'm might do that.

Your description matches what I remember from climbing there a few months ago. I got eyes on the anchor setup so I know it wasn't as simple as just dropping a quad on there.

The ocean side wall is easier to set up than the left anchors of the slab side. Those require a lot of cord to get the master point hanging perfectly. The far right climb on ocean side, The Flake, requires slightly long cordalette, maybe 20-30ft. Or some webbing or a couple of slings, but one of the bolts is set back a ways so it helps to have a lot of material. The far left ocean side can be set up with a double length sling on sliding x if you're bold and minimal, or two slings or medium cordalette (this one would be easy with a quad). There are two parallel bolts around 6" back from the edge.

All of the anchor bolts up top are relatively new glue-ins (~2 years).

Sam is correct. You can actually set up the ocean side TR with just a couple longish draws. But that's not the main climbing area, particularly if you're bringing newbies.

I was there a few weeks ago and 30ft of cordelette worked just fine setting up on the flake side, and would be more than enough for the ocean facing side as well

Great to hear that the bolts have been replaced. Last time I was there like 4 years ago the bolts were weathered and not confidence inspiring. It made the anchor set up tricky as one attempted to use any bolts one could clip and even sling a bulge 

Great info guys. That's hugely helpful. 

We'll definitely be climbing the easy west side. This is not a hard climbing group. I'll bring a 30' cordalette and a couple slings.

Any thoughts on how early we'd have to get there on a Sunday morning to secure a route? That place is so gorgeous I can't imagine we'll be the only climbers with designs to spend a Sunday there.

Justin Barham wrote: 

Any thoughts on how early we'd have to get there on a Sunday morning to secure a route? That place is so gorgeous I can't imagine we'll be the only climbers with designs to spend a Sunday there.

Get there early. When I take a group I aim to be there around 7 AM. People tend to share ropes and routes, though, so it's not like you'll be aced out if you get there late. Parking is actually the bigger issue. 

A 40 foot piece of rope and a few carabiners is all you need forget the webbing lol can set up all anchors with gear in photo keep it simple/ anchor for fixed line in photo.

Followup...

Thanks again for the help. We had just a ton of fun out there. Anchors were pretty easy with the beta. The main center route we just used a big quad with each side extended with a couple of 48" runners. Worked great and seemed solid. Dropped a quad on the far left face for some super easy climbs. The arete we rigged with webbing somehow as the bolts aren't side by side.

Feedback suggests rigging rope is clearly in my future as I gather more robust anchor building skills. Still, pretty stoked on a fun day climbing at the beach.

Oh, bonus, we got to see that guy who does that crazy commando rap of the south face. Pretty rad.

Glad you had fun.

The aussie rappel guy (i think his name is greg?) might be the best part of climbing there.  One time i was there a sherriff showed up saying they had received a call saying someone had jumped off the cliff, he came straight up to me and asked if it was greg(?), i told him yes and he walked straight back to his car.