Mark Smiley's Online Anchor Course

Last week Mark Smiley released his online anchor course. I decided to buy it and review it. If you're curious about what you might learn take a look:

Why is it I always have a bad feeling about folks learning to climb online? 

I'd be interested in knowing why the price was set so high. Amazon/kindle very clearly point out to authors that to maximise revenue, minimise the price. 

Dylan B. wrote: That’s not a review. That’s a long-form advertisement.

Yup, in which the "reviewer" likely gets a commission from any sales using his "discount" code.

Hollywood Guiding=Big Money entitlement.  I mean come on, he climbed the 50 classics, and almost got shut down on 5.9 in YNP but hey, totally worth every cent.  Then consumers can instagram that they learned from a true expert, so obviously they are one too.  Perfect Storm.

its funny, I don't think I would want to learn anchor building from a guide-- they have a different set of constraints on them, usually erring on the side of more safety/redundancy than the average party.

For example- a bolted sport anchor -- most people are comfortable being lowered off two quickdraws (opposite and opposed). Would a guide's anchor course say this? Or would they recommend using a cordellete and a million lockers? 

mpech wrote:For example- a bolted sport anchor -- most people are comfortable being lowered off two quickdraws (opposite and opposed). Would a guide's anchor course say this? Or would they recommend using a cordellete and a million lockers? 

Interesting you mention this example. It is safer and better to have both draws (and all 4 carabiners) facing out and away from the cliff. The common practice of “opposite and opposing” draws at the anchor should be retired. Using a “locker draw” is a great solution for those who want to have a more secure sport anchor with out a lot of extra fuss/weight. 

And the folks keep chiming in... Who wants an online course that teaches bouldering? You would never have to leave the house to become "experienced"

Northeast Alpine Start wrote:

Interesting you mention this example. It is safer and better to have both draws (and all 4 carabiners) facing out and away from the cliff. The common practice of “opposite and opposing” draws at the anchor should be retired. Using a “locker draw” is a great solution for those who want to have a more secure sport anchor with out a lot of extra fuss/weight. 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but no one has ever died from the catastrophic unclipping of two quickdraws, so claiming that there are safer or more dangerous quickdraw orientations is inaccurate. 

mpech wrote:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but no one has ever died from the catastrophic unclipping of two quickdraws, so claiming that there are safer or more dangerous quickdraw orientations is inaccurate. 

I use locker draws for peace of mind, even if there are no documented cases of unclipping.

Mobes Mobesely wrote: Why is it I always have a bad feeling about folks learning to climb online? 

How would this differ from using a book?

FosterK wrote:

How would this differ from using a book?

Seems to be about $180 different.

FosterK wrote:

How would this differ from using a book?

People that actually read books are a rare bunch nowadays, especially down here in 'merica.

Northeast Alpine Start wrote:

Interesting you mention this example. It is safer and better to have both draws (and all 4 carabiners) facing out and away from the cliff. The common practice of “opposite and opposing” draws at the anchor should be retired. Using a “locker draw” is a great solution for those who want to have a more secure sport anchor with out a lot of extra fuss/weight. 

your kidding? have you been sportclimbing?  how secure do we need to make 2 bolts?  what you should do, is take the $200 dollars your video costs and give it to the ASCA. Then you can lower off rams horns, steel clips, mussey hooks... what ever. clip and lower should be the standard.

John Wilder wrote:

What are you talking about? Draws lay flat against the rock- and they should face away from each other.

Mussys orient away from the rock due to the link used to attach them to the bolt- and no, they shouldn't be opposite and opposed.

Your last sentence is my point. The majority of relatively new to intermediate sport climbers I’ve interacted with were taught, and believe, that opposed quickdraws at the anchor are somehow safer despite it often leading to open gate strength risks. Gates away from the rock > than opposed when using redundant non-lockers. 

Props to ya' dude for putting it out there for the Shit Gibbons on this site to huck loads at you.   

Put there ain't no "open gate strength risks" on a TR anchor made from draws worth a farthing.

I've seen draws hang with their gates facing out, inches from the (slightly overhanging) rock..  Probably related to the natural orientation of the bottom links of the chains.

Northeast Alpine Start, are you saying having both gates face the same direction is a lesser evil than having one of the gates touch the rock ?  It's an interesting tradeoff to discuss, but I am skeptical of your position.  I worry about the "twisted rope unclpping itself" scenario - when 2 carabiners are right next to each other and facing the same direction, it's not hard to picture the rope unclipping from both (assuming it can unclip from one).  One of the gates sitting against the rock worries me less, since at least the other gate is facing away then.

This bantering back and forth about QD orientation is bad enough but the real annoying thing about this thread is that the OP said he was going to review the climbing course for us and he failed by merely linking to a trumped up advertisement in which he appears to have a financial benefit (via referral code).

This has been addressed by several people already but there has been no response by this Northeast guy. Why not just come clean - instead of saying you are reviewing a course for us just say "buy this course so I can make some money as the middle man."

In fact where Northeast Alpine said he bought the course, I have my doubts. Can he show proof or is this all a sham?

mpech wrote:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but no one has ever died from the catastrophic unclipping of two quickdraws, so claiming that there are safer or more dangerous quickdraw orientations is inaccurate. 

This does not exactly meet your criteria (and isn't on an anchor, so it's moot, I guess), but the rope unclipping from a biner does happen. Even twice in a row.  

Northeast Alpine Start wrote:

Your last sentence is my point. The majority of relatively new to intermediate sport climbers I’ve interacted with were taught, and believe, that opposed quickdraws at the anchor are somehow safer despite it often leading to open gate strength risks. Gates away from the rock > than opposed when using redundant non-lockers. 

gate open... there are two gates... seems fine...