Real gear sling vs. 1" Nylon sewn runner

I'm going to CO in a couple weeks on an RV road trip to Lumpy/Eldo/RMNP trip. I have been using for many years the BD Zodiac gear sling for multi-pitch climbing, I like how it sit on me and keeps my gear organized.

But I ditched the hexes, and only carry a smattering of nuts and offsets, and am toying with the idea of racking on my harness or just using either an over the shoulder padded sling or a 60cm sewn runner made from 1" (25mm) webbing. I don't really like the harness only option, but have used it on short routes before that don't require a lot of gear, like any trad route in the Black Hills.

Any opinions as to what type of single gear sling works best for a Lumpy/Eldo rack? I have more gear than I can possible carry, so I whittle it down depending on the route. Usually is a small blue Metolius to a #4 C4, with doubles in the .5 to #3 range.

I carry draws on my waist, along with belay stuff.

Any racking biner with a notched gate is going to hang up on 1" webbing, a minor but persistent source of irritation IME.

I think once you start racking on your harness, Buck, you'll like it. I have one of those BD gear slings with the padded shoulder and adjustable length. I really like it WHEN a climb is suited toward a sling. But I've really learned that racking on the harness is much better for me.

Gunkiemike wrote: Any racking biner with a notched gate is going to hang up on 1" webbing, a minor but persistent source of irritation IME.

Hey Gunkiemike:  Since re-buying my entire rack in 2018 (donated old one to nephew), I don't have any biners with notched gates....100% Petzl Spirit, DMM Shadow,  DMM Alpha, CAMP Dyon and BD Hoodwire. I also have a bunch of sub-sized biners I was going to use for racking, but I am going the other way now, hate those little bastards. My fat, arthritic fingers have trouble manipulating them, and they have a notched gate.

I am thinking that a 1" webbing sling can be left for tat if needed, and I'm only out $3.  I have a really old REI padded gear sling that I never used on a climb, but it has a buckle and I wouldn't feel safe using it as a bail sling.

other than the notched gate, do you have any strong opinion on the padded gear sling vs. the webbing?

Señor Arroz wrote: I think once you start racking on your harness, Buck, you'll like it. I have one of those BD gear slings with the padded shoulder and adjustable length. I really like it WHEN a climb is suited toward a sling. But I've really learned that racking on the harness is much better for me.

I have tried it, Senor, and I agree for light racks it is the shizzz. But on longer routes, I can't stand all the weight on my hips. Plus forget doing any kind of chimney move. 

I kind of like the idea of just using a wide runner for racking cams, and the harness for all my draws. Keeps the weight off the hips, but isn't a ton of shit on a sling either.

Buck Rio wrote:

I have tried it, Senor, and I agree for light racks it is the shizzz. But on longer routes, I can't stand all the weight on my hips. Plus forget doing any kind of chimney move. 

I kind of like the idea of just using a wide runner for racking cams, and the harness for all my draws. Keeps the weight off the hips, but isn't a ton of shit on a sling either.

That makes sense. I think a mixed-solution is a smart idea if you don't like the weight on your hips. Or even just carry the heavier big cams there. 

Buck Rio wrote: other than the notched gate, do you have any strong opinion on the padded gear sling vs. the webbing?

With all keylock biners, as you have, you should be fine.  I've always been a gear sling guy. Started with a Chouinard sling (rolled/folded seat belt webbing), then a homemade one with 1.5" webbing joined (not sling-strength) to 6 or 7mm cord, then a nice padded, sling-strength one (better on a sunburned neck!), then the Metolius multiloop sling. In the winter, when I'm wearing enough clothing that padding isn't needed, my sling is a knotted 9mm rope (pretty well suited for leaving behind at a rap anchor, but I've always had other leaver tat with me when I've needed it. And I've grown attached to the rope sling.)

Gunkiemike wrote:

With all keylock biners, as you have, you should be fine.  I've always been a gear sling guy. Started with a Chouinard sling (rolled/folded seat belt webbing), then a homemade one with 1.5" webbing joined (not sling-strength) to 6 or 7mm cord, then a nice padded, sling-strength one (better on a sunburned neck!), then the Metolius multiloop sling. In the winter, when I'm wearing enough clothing that padding isn't needed, my sling is a knotted 9mm rope (pretty well suited for leaving behind at a rap anchor, but I've always had other leaver tat with me when I've needed it. And I've grown attached to the rope sling.)

Gunkiemike, I was given one of those old Chouinard slings made of seatbelt not long ago. Along with some old Chouinard hexes. I use it to keep my excess gear racked on. They're cool. And the rolled seatbelt doesn't snag anything. 

If you are a fan of organizing gear off your harness there is no better solution (imo) than a grivel lynx.  It organizes and carries better than a sling and covers a pack when you need one.  They run around 50$.

The 13l backpack detaches if you just want the harness.

Nick B wrote: If you are a fan of organizing gear off your harness there is no better solution (imo) than a grivel lynx.  It organizes and carries better than a sling and covers a pack when you need one.  

The 13l backpack detaches if you just want the harness.

I like this in theory, but it is $70, and I already own the BD Zodiac which shares some of the same attributes as the Lynx.  This looks like a hybrid of the Metolius and Zodiac. I bet this would be awesome for a grade IV, all/most of a day type climb.  Like Liberty Bell or Casual Route. I may get one now that I think about it. If I don't like it, I can always put it in the want ads here on MP.

I don't see any in the states for sale, Barrabes has one for $49.50 Euro

https://www.trekkinn.com/outdoor-mountain/grivel-lynx/136026418/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=2890444&country=us&gclid=CjwKCAjw5ZPcBRBkEiwA-avvk3r4qVpDd5MmlmkXJdriO6pfx4ScWK0YQwXH0vlPXaft6KeA-GFzKhoCLHoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Trekinn has it for a good price, that is where I bought mine.  They are out of Spain, but are legit.    Be sure to use the 5% off coupon.  I love mine and use it on most longer mp climbs.

Rack gear on your harness 

Gunkiemike wrote: Any racking biner with a notched gate is going to hang up on 1" webbing, a minor but persistent source of irritation IME.

This has not been the case in my experience. I rack almost all of my draws on a 1" tied webbing sling and they are all wiregates with notches except for 1 Oz biner. I very rarely have an issue with them getting caught on the sling.

I have never used a zodiac, but it looks awful. The lynx adjusts like a normal backpack does so it has load strap and length adjustments for the shoulder straps.  You can have it cinched up nice and tight to you body with zero shifting even when loaded. The lower red part isn't adjustable but I haven't found the need.  It also has more attachment points so less gear shift and swinging.

Buck Rio wrote: 
Any opinions as to what type of single gear sling works best for a Lumpy/Eldo rack? I have more gear than I can possible carry, so I whittle it down depending on the route. Usually is a small blue Metolius to a #4 C4, with doubles in the .5 to #3 range.

No need for gear sling at Eldo or Lumpy. For the rare chimneys, just use a regular 2ft sling. Very few climbers around here use gear sling. Vedauwoo (2h north) has a lot more offwidth/chimneys, so that's where locals bust out their gear slings.
In Eldo, I usually double up on small/medium cams and nuts (purple metolius to green camalot and BD nuts #3 through #9) and at Lumpy I additionally double up on nuts #10 to #12.

Nick B wrote:...  They are out of Spain, but are legit. ...   

Ok, thanks. That's what I was curious about after reading some of the gear descriptions.