Mountain Project Logo

Portaledge for the Nose: BD Cliff Cabana or Metolius Bomb Shelter?

Original Post
Alex Vanotti · · Arvada, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 15

MP,

I'm looking for recommendations on which portaledge to use for a 3-day Nose attempt:  the BD Cliff Cabana or Metolius Bomb Shelter.  Yes, i know the correct answer is Fish or Runout Customs, but if you had to choose between the BD or Metolius, which would you recommend?  Outdoorgearlab didn't have a decisive winner.  I've heard a lot of commentary about the weight and complexity of setting up the cliff cabana, but it does look like a comfy perch.  Both are on sale at the moment....anyone have a preference?

Thanks!

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

how tall are you?

jon bernhard · · Buena Vista, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 286

D4 Big Wall Gear ledge.  Others just aren't worth it

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916

both ledges are too heavy to be worth bringing on the nose. Runout Customs or D4  is the way to go

Alex Vanotti · · Arvada, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 15

David, I'm 5'11".  My partner is about 5'7".

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

Metolius - I lend mine out to Nose climbers all the time, so hit me up if you don't want to buy one. erik@yosemitebigwall.com

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Alex Vanotti wrote: David, I'm 5'11".  My partner is about 5'7".

I'm 5'7" too, and find the BD hard work. Having a greater span really helps with this ledge I think. Being strong might also be an advantage. The Metolius seems more forgiving in this respect. I think it is also lighter? 

Sam Golden · · melbourne, FL · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 25

if you wanna buy a BD double off of me send me a message. It only has about a week of sleeping on it and is in great shape, just getting a different ledge...

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
David Coley wrote:

 I think it is also lighter? 

Every ledge is lighter than the bdel double

Sam Golden wrote:
if you wanna buy a BD double off of me send me a message. It only has about a week of sleeping on it and is in great shape, just getting a different ledge...
Said every non-sposored waller who ever owned a Bdel ledge and climbed more than a few walls
 
Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

These guys had no bigwall experienced, borrowed my ledges, and made it to the top......in this video you can check out the soon to be released 'Pod,' a badass inflatable portaledge that Dave Allfrey told me he thinks is better than a regular ledge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xCVxdXa6Mw

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

Intersting Pod ledge, Does it fold up around you like a hammock when laying in it?  That would be a deal breaker for me.  I like my nice big ledge to belay from, cook on, kick back on.  If the ledge ended up wrapping around me or folding when sitting in it, no thanks.

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

It's pretty sick Kevin, but yeah no replacement for the seige with haulbags full of party supplies - more of a miracle for routes like Lurking Fear, The Nose, and Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome, where you only need a ledge for maybe one night. The cool thing is you can use it as an inflatable pad every night, even when you camp on a natural ledge or on the summit, so that simplifies things even more on the fast and light routes.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916

I didn't see the Pod in my (admittedly) rushed viewing of the video at work, what timestamp does it show up in the vids?

Julie W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

^ I think around 4:25 looks like a sleeping pad with straps

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916

Oh! very interesting... 

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

When they bivy in the Stovelegs you see the Pod, basically an inflatable pad in a suspended kevlar sleeve, will even come with a fly. I think just the single ledge weighs under 2 lbs, and since it doubles as a cush pad, is pretty sick for routes on more remote formations like Quarter Dome, Half Dome, Watkins, Liberty Cap, not to mention the El Cap rigs with some ledges.

Zach Raney · · Moab · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Bd sucks and is heavy as hell

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

Ledge on the Nose = Fail.

Get in shape doing Grade V's.

Then get ur send on, plenty of bivy spots. If you are hauling all that extra stuff you are making hauling the crux of the route. Not a good plan.

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Really, you need to be honest about your skills and need to respect the route. If you can’t make it to El Cap Tower in one day, you’re not ready for the Nose. 

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
Mark Hudon wrote: Really, you need to be honest about your skills and need to respect the route. If you can’t make it to El Cap Tower in one day, you’re not ready for the Nose. 

Obvious caveat being that if you can't make it to El Cap Tower in a day because other parties are having tea parties in the Stovelegs. But then that just proves Mark's point in general in a roundabout way. 

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Respecting the route also means respecting other people’s experience. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Post a Reply to "Portaledge for the Nose: BD Cliff Cabana or Met…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.