Portaledge for the Nose: BD Cliff Cabana or Metolius Bomb Shelter?
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MP, |
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how tall are you? |
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D4 Big Wall Gear ledge. Others just aren't worth it |
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both ledges are too heavy to be worth bringing on the nose. Runout Customs or D4 is the way to go |
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David, I'm 5'11". My partner is about 5'7". |
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Metolius - I lend mine out to Nose climbers all the time, so hit me up if you don't want to buy one. erik@yosemitebigwall.com |
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Alex Vanotti wrote: David, I'm 5'11". My partner is about 5'7". I'm 5'7" too, and find the BD hard work. Having a greater span really helps with this ledge I think. Being strong might also be an advantage. The Metolius seems more forgiving in this respect. I think it is also lighter? |
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if you wanna buy a BD double off of me send me a message. It only has about a week of sleeping on it and is in great shape, just getting a different ledge... |
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David Coley wrote: Every ledge is lighter than the bdel double Sam Golden wrote:Said every non-sposored waller who ever owned a Bdel ledge and climbed more than a few walls |
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These guys had no bigwall experienced, borrowed my ledges, and made it to the top......in this video you can check out the soon to be released 'Pod,' a badass inflatable portaledge that Dave Allfrey told me he thinks is better than a regular ledge. |
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Intersting Pod ledge, Does it fold up around you like a hammock when laying in it? That would be a deal breaker for me. I like my nice big ledge to belay from, cook on, kick back on. If the ledge ended up wrapping around me or folding when sitting in it, no thanks. |
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It's pretty sick Kevin, but yeah no replacement for the seige with haulbags full of party supplies - more of a miracle for routes like Lurking Fear, The Nose, and Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome, where you only need a ledge for maybe one night. The cool thing is you can use it as an inflatable pad every night, even when you camp on a natural ledge or on the summit, so that simplifies things even more on the fast and light routes. |
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I didn't see the Pod in my (admittedly) rushed viewing of the video at work, what timestamp does it show up in the vids? |
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^ I think around 4:25 looks like a sleeping pad with straps |
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Oh! very interesting... |
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When they bivy in the Stovelegs you see the Pod, basically an inflatable pad in a suspended kevlar sleeve, will even come with a fly. I think just the single ledge weighs under 2 lbs, and since it doubles as a cush pad, is pretty sick for routes on more remote formations like Quarter Dome, Half Dome, Watkins, Liberty Cap, not to mention the El Cap rigs with some ledges. |
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Bd sucks and is heavy as hell |
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Ledge on the Nose = Fail. |
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Really, you need to be honest about your skills and need to respect the route. If you can’t make it to El Cap Tower in one day, you’re not ready for the Nose. |
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Mark Hudon wrote: Really, you need to be honest about your skills and need to respect the route. If you can’t make it to El Cap Tower in one day, you’re not ready for the Nose. Obvious caveat being that if you can't make it to El Cap Tower in a day because other parties are having tea parties in the Stovelegs. But then that just proves Mark's point in general in a roundabout way. |
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Respecting the route also means respecting other people’s experience. |