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Easy-ish moab towers and can't-miss routes

Original Post
Dead Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

Are there any 5.0 to 5.7 moab area towers or routes that are too fun or scenic to miss?  Trying to plan a trip.

David A · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 405
Kevin Lockwood · · SLC, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 384

South Six Shooter is the only one that comes to mind.

If you're looking for towers, most start in the 5.9 range and the best routes are in the 5.10-5.11 range. Not much below 5.7.

Kevin Lockwood · · SLC, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 384

There's also this small tower, though I've never done it:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105718027/tezcatlipoca

Keith W · · Westminster · Joined May 2015 · Points: 95

Tezcat is fun but super short for how long it takes to get to it. That being said, the hike is fantastic and the position is amazing. The little bowl where Tezcat sits is really pretty and a great place to just hang out.

Bullwinkle tower is 5.6 I believe and I would also second Owl Rock. It is well protected and a neat summit. These two are in the same area so you could knock out two towers relatively easily.

DaveT · · Albuquerque · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 233

There's also a 5.7 on Off Balanced Rock in Arches. Pretty fun little route for sure. Shady too!
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105717982/northeast-chimney

James Lee · · Mobile, AL · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 35

My teenage daughter and I have made two trips out there to climb, and there is not that much in that range. This is what I put together:

Arches:

  1. Elephant Butte Standard: 5.3, desert mountaineering, scrambling, 2x raps down.
  2. Off Balanced Rock, Northeast Chimney: 5.7 trad 2 pitches
  3. Owl Rock, West Crack: trad 5.8
Fisher Towers:
  1. Dock Rock, Impish: 5.4 trad, climbs Dock Rock, wandering route, small exposure
  2. Carson’s Tower, Original Route: 5.7 trad
  3. Lizard Rock, Entry Fee: 5.8 trad
Moab South:
  1. HWY 191 South, Wilson Arch Regular: 5.5 trad, between mile marker 102-103
  2. HWY 191 South, Looking Glass Rock: 5.4 3 pitches
  3. Valley of the Gods, 7 Drunken Sailors, Boracho Grande: 5.9 trad 

Castle Valley:
  1. Parriot Mesa Mountaineers Route: 5.5 2 pitches, easiest route up largest mesa at entrance Castle Valley, some fixed cables. Long route mountaineering.
San Rafael Swell:
  1. DBC Canyon E crags, Fun Size: 5.4, trad 2 pitches
  2. DBC Canyon E crags, Road to Mecca: 5.5 trad 5 pitches
  3. Three Finger Canyon O crags, 1000’ of Fun: 5.6 trad 5 pitches
  4. Three Finger Canyon O crags, Planetary Alignment: 5.7 trad 3 pitches
  5. Three Finger Canyon O crags, Cat Walk: Trad 2 pitches
  6. Three FingerCanyon O crags, 1200’ of More Fun: 5.7 trad 6 pitches
  7. J crags, Milwaukees Best, SPORT 5.8 4 pitches (J crags 3.1 miles from I-70)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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