Sierra scrambles - 4th and low fifth

Hey! I have a few days in the sierras after some hiking in the JMT and would love to do a couple scrambles. I know that means something different for everyone! I'm thinking something like Tenaya (except I think I'd like a rope for a couple moves on that) or easier. Any tips welcome! I'd love to run (ok, crawl) around on some of this beautiful shabby granite! Thanks! :)

Good one, I'll respond so I can hear others' answers too!

Two climbs that would meet your 4th and low fifth criteria would be 1) northeast ridge of Bear Creek Spire and 2) north ridge of Mt Conness. I feel comfortable suggesting each of these because the difficulties ramp up as you progress along the climb and you could turn around if you're not feelin it. There's a cruxy chimney downclimb on north ridge of Conness that might be 5.6? We ended up forgoing the rope at least partly because the rock quality was so incredible, we couldn't believe it considering the big mountain terrain.

And I noticed you excluded third class, but northeast face of Middle Palisade has a really nice long beautiful ledgy face. And the scenery is amazing, Finger Lake and the Palisade Crest, oh yeah!

PS. Best way (just my opinion) to approach the north ridge of Conness is by also scrambling the northwest ridge of North Peak. There was an accident in the talus somewhere near the more standard approach to the north ridge recently. With more and more drought years behind us here in CA, there is loose glacial moraine-type talus exposed, very treacherous for the solo scrambler. Something to keep in mind.

Interested in this thread as well.

You can rap the 5.6 chimney on the N Ridge of Conness.  There's another downclimb spot to may want to rap as well, but otherwise the climbing is within your range.

+1 to the NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire

Other ideas:

• W Chute on Cloudripper (the slabs at the top are 4th) 
• Agassiz from Bishop Pass (2nd class with optional 3rd class scrambling, but one of the best summit views in the Sierra)
• Tenaya Canyon descent (4th, optional rap)
• NE Gully on Laurel Mt
• Hurd Peak (W side, choose your own adventure up to mid-5th)

This is probably not on many peoples' top-10 list, but I thought it was a great few days: Backpack up from Lake Sabrina to Hungry Packer Lake. Establish an incredibly scenic campsite. Wake up the next day (or whenever you're acclimated) to climb the Northwest Arete (4th class) of Mt. Haeckel. If you're feeling it, descend the East Ridge of Haeckel to Haeckel-Wallace Col, then ascend the West Ridge of Mt. Wallace (2nd-3rd class). Return to Haeckel-Wallace Col and descend to Hungry Packer Lake. Sleep in a bit the next day. Scramble up Picture Peak's Southwest Chute (3rd class) and retrace your steps back to camp. You could also think about doing some/all the Clyde Spires instead of or in addition to Picture Peak. I haven't been to the Clyde Spires yet, but they looked cool and probably aren't done too much. It's possible to do Haeckel, Wallace, and Picture Peak in a day, but that'd be a lot of up and down.

Tyndall and Williamson probably don't get done as much as they should, mostly because of the long approach. The North Rib of Tyndall is cool and the West Face of Williamson is pretty good, and the easiest way to get up this behemoth of a mountain. Plan one night on the approach to Shepherd's Pass-12,000 ft, unless you're down to ascend 5000 feet, losing 500 half way up, all in one day.

Saitama inSD wrote:
You could also do the East Ridge of Russell, downclimb the South Face, cross over and head up Whitney's Mountaineer's Route, go back down the Whitney Trail and head up a few hundred feet to Mt. Muir. All 3rd class.  You'll nab 3 14ers in one trip. Very doable.

Good recommendation! I've done both Whitney and Russell, though not in the same day. The first time I did Russel's East Ridge, I wasn't absolutely sure how to get down the South Face of Russell, so I went back down the East Ridge and Whitney had to wait for another day. The South Face descent of Russell looks intimidating from above in my opinion, thought it's only 3rd class. If you choose to do Russell and Whitney together, I'd recommend camping at Upper Boyscout Lake, not Iceberg Lake. Russell is the better peak for sure, so if you pick one, I'd go with that.

Saitama inSD wrote: Nice additions fossana. Cloudripper is a really short hike in and I concur about the summit of Agassiz. Spectacular view.

I haven't done the Tenaya Canyon descent but a friend has and it's supposed to be tricky route finding? Was for him since he got lost and it took them quite awhile to make it down.  

I went up Tenaya Canyon twice quite a few years ago and don't recall the route finding being especially difficult. The first time up my partner continued to the summit of Tenaya Peak; I was happy just going up the Canyon.

If you want some beta for Tenaya Canyon, here's a trip report from many years ago: snwburd.com/bob/trip_report…

I'll third (or fifth or whatever) the recs for Bear Creek Spire and Conness. Both of those are high on the "engaging but very secure feeling" scale. NW Arete of Haeckel was cool too. I don't get the hype about Agassiz though, but to each their own.

And if you do Cloudripper check Fossana's beta photo on the route page. I went up there recently with no beta and wound up climbing some other chute into a somewhat unfortunate death maze. Ugh.

Higher ratio of climbing on fun featured rock + superior scenery to hiking approach:

* Crystal Crag from Lake George trailhead.

* Mt Starr low S ridge + S->N summit ridge from Mosquito Flat parking (elev 10000ft)

* Little Lakes Peak traverse NNW ridge NE ridge from  Mosquito Flat parking.

Ken

The NE Arete of BSC is a nice route but I think it's pretty easy to wander onto some trickier stuff if you're not paying close attention.  I'd be comfortable soloing 5.6 or so before heading up on that.  Having said that, I think there can be a big difference between 4th and supposedly easy 5th class so, given your comment that you would want a rope on Tenaya Peak, take any 5th class recommendations with a grain of salt.

North Ridge of Conness is terrific but same caveat.

The E Face of Middle Pal is spectacular. Though it's in the same general area (though a different drainage), the E Arete of Winchell is good too.

Red and White Mt. has a nice class 3 route on it. Spectacular geology back there.

Like Ken, I recommend the Little Lakes Peak-Mt. Morgan traverse.  Not too hard or long but great scenery.

E Arete of Russell, but don't you need to score a permit nowadays, even for a day hike?

The NE Arete of Haeckel is terrific but seems to get overlooked alot.

N. Rib of Tyndall, though it's a long steep hike to get to, though if you overnight you can tag Williamson too. The South Ridge of nearby Junction Peak is supposed to be nice as well.  I've only been in that area once and intended to climb that after doing Tyndall but enjoyed the scenery so much I ended up hiking to the Bighorn Pleateau instead.  So  much to climb, so little time.

Tyndall north rib is a pretty casual undertaking from the top of Shepherd Pass; you can easily be back down from the summit in less than four hours. There is a somewhat distinct use trail of switchbacks leading up to the ridge, but instead of slogging up them through the talus it's a lot more enjoyable to move left of the obvious route because that puts you on some intermittent, and much more fun, slabs.

Williamson west face is a bit more serious, in that the peak is higher, the start point is lower, and you have to circumnavigate the untracked boulders of Williamson Bowl in order to get there. I've done it twice, and it took almost eight hours up and back from Shepherd Pass. I would recommend climbing this route much earlier in the summer, but that's just because I was happier running right up the fall line with axe and crampons than I was at this time of year when the west face was all dry, unstable talus.  (I left the gear on a rock once the route entered the couloirs and picked it up on the way down.) On the other hand, if you skip it you'll miss the chance to camp in Williamson Bowl, which is probably the most awesomely alpine place--almost spooky--I've ever seen in the Sierra.

Along the lines of Ryan's suggestion one of my favorite longer Sierra hiking/running loops is Sabrina > Hungry Packer > over Evolution Crest near Haeckel (3rd class) > JMT > Darwin Canyon > Lamarck Col > N Lake (could stash a bike here to avoid the few miles on the road) > Sabrina.  The climbing isn't astounding, but the scenery is some of the best.

Nice thread--am interested in all the suggestions

I will throw Mt. Emerson and Humphrey's in the mix. Emerson is the easier undertaking being about 7 hrs car to car. It only has a couple 5.2 moves at the start and the rest is a scramble with a beautiful summit.

Wow fantastic suggestions! Thank you! This will keep me busy for this trip and my next Sierra trip too! :) I appreciate the caution on the 4th/low 5th distinction. Especially as a short person (5'3") there can definitely be a lot of overlap there! I also appreciate the run/scramble recommendations... that is also something I'm keen on!

Norman Clyde Peak

Emerson

I personally wouldn't recommend the SE Face of Emerson if you would want a rope on Tenaya.  The crux, while right off the deck, is exposed and somewhat polished since it's a water chute.

Adding that "Sierra 4th class" often encompasses a wide range of ratings up to mid-5th (example: SW Chute on Winchell).

Thanks Christina for starting this post, I won't repeat it but borrow the info.

I'm looking at kenr's recommendations for shorter weekend trips to avoid long approaches. i want to do north ridge of lone pine eventually.

Currently planning LLP and or Bear Creek Spire but also looking into Cloudripper. Maybe next weekend.

Jennifer rau wrote: 
Currently planning LLP and or Bear Creek Spire but also looking into Cloudripper. Maybe next weekend.

I thought you were looking at something you could third class?  If so, I don't believe either of the above fits the bills.  Don't get me wrong, terrific routes both, but you'll likely want a rope on both (unless you're bringing one and I didn't get that).  

Fat Dad wrote:

I thought you were looking at something you could third class?  If so, I don't believe either of the above fits the bills.  Don't get me wrong, terrific routes both, but you'll likely want a rope on both (unless you're bringing one and I didn't get that).  

Bear Creek Spire has a 4th class route to the top (the descent for the arete and the ridge). Its an  easy rope-less scramble to a exposed and exciting summit. 

Fat Dad wrote:

I thought you were looking at something you could third class?  If so, I don't believe either of the above fits the bills.  Don't get me wrong, terrific routes both, but you'll likely want a rope on both (unless you're bringing one and I didn't get that).