Mountain Project Logo

Big cams?

Original Post
Ethan Jeannette · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 90

Trying to decide between #5,6 c4 or same size tech friends or dragons. Thanks 

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

Whatever is cheapest.

David Arredondo · · Austin, TX · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 15

I’ve only used the large friends and C4s, specifically the 5” sizes. Loved the C4, hated the wild country one. The wild country ones also have slightly less range. I have no idea why, but the thumb loop makes for noticeably better handling. The wild country cams have a stronger spring, which makes them more annoying to handle when I’m scared witless and all I want is the safety of a piece in. 

Peter J · · Bishop · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 647

Short answer: #5 C4, or nothing.
If you don't already know what size you need then you probably don't have specific climbs in mind/haven't been properly scared shitless without one of them yet. In which case YOU DO NOT NEED IT AND WILL PROBABLY NEVER PLACE IT. It will just be training weight that you'll carry in your pack every weekend for no good reason. Wait until you know some wide climbs that you are for sure going to do and what size gear you need for it. Or wait till you're scared shitless and swear to yourself that you'll buy a cam that fits the size you're climbing the moment you get back to the ground.

Stein Pull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

I agree with the above recommendations. Get a #5 C4. I'm not a fan of the tech friends of dragons, although there are certainly folks out there who swear by the #5 and #6 tech friends. I've used just about every big cam on the market (and own most of them), and the C4s stand out as the clear best in those sizes.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 424

I have the C4s in 3/4/5/6 and the Dragon 5 (equivalent to C4 3) and I've used the Dragon 6/7. I'll be the voice of dissent and say I like the Dragons better in these sizes. The extendable slings are nice and the texture of the lobes seems to have a real effect in preventing them from walking (I sometimes notice the big C4s want to rotate).

That said, the new C4s are going to have those triggers to keep the lobes retracted, which may sway me back to BD. I might wait for that if I were you.

acrophobe · · Orange, CT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

Not only will the 2019 C4s have trigger retraction clips, they will also be lighter and have a stiffer stem for pushing up in front of you.  It might be worth waiting, if you don't have a short term need.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Have you check Instagram to see what the people with many followers are using?!?!

M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 165
Ocalslay Onlyyay wrote: Have you check Instagram to see what the people with many followers are using?!?!

i don't even know where to start with this comment

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 424
notmyname wrote:

i don't even know where to start with this comment

Ignore the trolls and they eventually get bored and go away.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 424

I will add that with these big cams, they generally aren't finnicky. They can be placed fairly tipped out, aren't susceptible to minor variations in the rock, and don't get stuck easily. So I think any of the cams mentioned on this thread will be okay. I said above that own the C4s but like the Dragons better, but I'm not selling my C4s to buy Dragons because the C4s are good enough.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
David Kerkeslager wrote:

Ignore the trolls and they eventually get bored and go away.

 But what?...pay attention and take advice given as gospel from the guy/gal who’s been climbing for 2 years or how bout the one who writes a paragraph on gear he’s never used? 

 Trolls make MP great again
Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

I recently replaced my entire rack, and I didn't buy anything bigger then a Silver Dragon 2. Same size as a #4 C4 because my old purple/green Camalot never got used on my old rack. Wait until you have a route that REQUIRES the larger sizes before you go out and buy. Or if you just have to get more gear, get a Big Bro, they weigh less.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
notmyname wrote:

i don't even know where to start with this comment

Start by noticing it’s all C4 all day. 

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
Buck Rio wrote: I recently replaced my entire rack, and I didn't buy anything bigger then a Silver Dragon 2. Same size as a #4 C4 because my old purple/green Camalot never got used on my old rack. Wait until you have a route that REQUIRES the larger sizes before you go out and buy. Or if you just have to get more gear, get a Big Bro, they weigh less.

Unless he lives in desert splitter land, big bros are not a direct replacement for big cams.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Christopher Smith wrote:

Unless he lives in desert splitter land, big bros are not a direct replacement for big cams.

Dude, you have to read the rest of my post:

Or if you just have to get more gear, get a Big Bro, they weigh less

If the OP is just shopping for the sake of shopping, get a big bro, they look kinda weird and a lighter than a cam.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Big cams?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.