Best all-round approach shoes?

I’ve been getting outdoors more and more now and my tennis shoes just aren’t going to cut it anymore. I was looking for an approach shoe that is good at scrambling, can climb 5.6-7 with no issues, light enough to clip to the back of a harness, but also comfortable enough to wear for long trips through the mountains with a heavy pack on. Water resistant is also nice, but not really required. What shoes do you guys use and what would you recommend? Thanks.

Five Tennies. 

5.10 Guide Tennies (the old version). They do it all. I've hiked close to 30 miles in a day in them, have led fairly hard trad in them, have climbed El Cap (aid) in them. They hold up pretty well, the rubber is great, and they're super comfortable. Unfortunately the newer version is a step down.

There are certainly lighter approach shoes out there, but they will fall apart much easier. The Evolv Cruisers essentially disintegrate the first time they touch rock (a bit of an exaggeration, but not much of one). La Sportiva Boulder Xs are clunky and heavy. The La Sportiva TX3s are worthwhile considering, and I like them for their lightweight properties, but I very much doubt they would hold up to aid climbing.

There are lots of other choices, but I feel that all fall short of the Tennies, especially if you can find the older version.

TX2's or TX3's and don't look back.

Scarpa Iguanas are pretty good. I've lead up to 5.7 in them pretty easily so far (done 5.8 slab, but I think at that point one probably wants to be in rock shoes... or be better than me). And they really make a difference compared to hiking shoes when rock hopping through a boulder field.

Bonus - it fits my flippers pretty better than my hiking shoes.

If you prefer orange to bright green, the Crux is on the same last.

Main concern - no insulation, not waterproof, so expect to fully experience the elements.

No such thing.  The ideal one for El Cap is different than the one for long approaches and mellow 5th alpine a la Cascades / Sierra is different than the "sketchy approach pitch" one for random crags.  People like to humblebrag about what they get done in approach shoes kinda like they wanna talk about how small of a pack they can use for alpine climbing, it's a sort of measuring contest.  If you size FIve Tennies for performance then it'll be a big compromise for long walks;  the converse is also true.

Since my negative nancy thing is over, I think it goes like this:

Performance fit Guide Tennis for 5.6-5.7
Trail-runner type shoe (e.g. TX2-3) for "light and fast carry over" (presumably the use case you list where you'd clip to your harness)
Burly Scarpa Zen or 5.10 Camp Four for long approaches with a pack 

Not gonna hit 5.7+, but Garmont Dragontail have worked for most of the things you mentioned.   Several different models including a GTX version.  I own 4 pairs, so they definitely fit many niches for my outings.

How does everyone handle sizing? Specifically for alpine-style climbs when you're going to be putting in 6+ miles.

I just bought a pair of TX3s - street size juuust barely hits my toes with a medium-thick sock, so I went up another half size... They now feel almost "too big", but I'm trying to tell myself that I'll be grateful on the hike. I'm curious about whether this is in line with what most people do.

I've owned several pair of approach shoes (Evolv Cruiser, Sportiva Boulder X, 5.10 Guide Tennie and Approach Pro) but have mostly done cragging or <1hr approaches in the past and so I sized them all quite snug. However I'm getting into more alpine terrain and am very nervous about having to turn back because of blisters. I've heard people say that their feet don't really swell to begin with, but mine definitely do - I guess maybe this is hard to account for without just taking them up and seeing how they work out?

Been using Guide Tennies and 5.10 Camp 4's, as jaredj said, (Guides for technical, Camp4's for trail&boulder hopping approached) for years; but the more recent model (2017?) of Guide Tennies seem really "stiff and clunky" compared to all previous others. Try before you buy!  

Anyone have any experience with the Scarpa Crux shoes? They look similar to the La Sportiva Boulder X but are (maybe) a bit lighter. Also, what shoes do you guys use to approach multi-pitch climbs where you have to take all your gear with you?

5.10 Guide tennies if you don't mind a heavy shoe. La Sportiva TX2 for a super lightweight shoe you can clip to your harness and not even know it is there. The TX2's are not super durable, but they rock for long routes because they are so light. Both shoes have good rubber on the bottom. The 5.10 are better climbing shoes, the LS are lighter and are great for long walk offs.

Salewa also makes a great shoe called the Wildfire, that is pretty durable and is still quite light compare to the guide tennies. Salewa Wildfire GTX Hiking Shoe is the waterproof version.

For me weight is everything, I'll use the TX2 for anything in Eldo or the flatirons, and the Salewa in RMNP or Lumpy due to longer approaches.

I've gone through 2 pairs of Cruxes and loved them for hiking, scrambling, and easy climbs. I did feel like the support on them were out rather quickly, but I did put a ton of mileage on them.

Sketty wrote: How does everyone handle sizing? Specifically for alpine-style climbs when you're going to be putting in 6+ miles.

I just bought a pair of TX3s - street size juuust barely hits my toes with a medium-thick sock, so I went up another half size... They now feel almost "too big", but I'm trying to tell myself that I'll be grateful on the hike. I'm curious about whether this is in line with what most people do.

I've owned several pair of approach shoes (Evolv Cruiser, Sportiva Boulder X, 5.10 Guide Tennie and Approach Pro) but have mostly done cragging or <1hr approaches in the past and so I sized them all quite snug. However I'm getting into more alpine terrain and am very nervous about having to turn back because of blisters. I've heard people say that their feet don't really swell to begin with, but mine definitely do - I guess maybe this is hard to account for without just taking them up and seeing how they work out?

Stick with the larger size for long approaches. You will end up going downhill a lot and if your toes are near the end you will loose toenails. A performance fit in an approach shoes only makes sense if you're doing an hour approach and climbing the whole route in it IMO.

I've owned two pairs of scarpa crux and currently have the iguana. All size in a my street shoe, toes not touching the end. I have hiked into the bugs with 70lbs in the crux and simul climbed all the mid 5th and lower pitches of the complete NR of stuart. It is a pretty good all around shoe, ok support, good smearing, ok edging (in approach shoe terms).

I soloed the west ridge (non sustained mid 5th) in the iguana. I would not pay retail for that shoe, it's an overpriced evolv cruzer. Midsole is thin and soft, all rocks stab your foot, would be horrible with a heavy pack. No structure to it, if you can't smear you're screwed (edges about as well as a pair of flip flops). Absolutely perfect for doing things like the chief in Squamish. 

Robert Hall wrote: Been using Guide Tennies and 5.10 Camp 4's, as jaredj said, (Guides for technical, Camp4's for trail&boulder hopping approached) for years; but the more recent model (2017?) of Guide Tennies seem really "stiff and clunky" compared to all previous others. Try before you buy!  

New 5 tennies are stiff and clunkly out of the box but they break in pretty quickly and get a lot better (at least that has been my experience). Anyways I use them because you can always find them for cheap.

+1 for the Scarpa Crux. Can be tightened down pretty hard and can edge into 5.7.

There you have it - only about ten different recommendations! :)

FrankPS wrote: There you have it - only about ten different recommendations! :)

Of those, which one is the best?