How do I start multi-pitching?
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I have been climbing for about a year, and sport leading outside for about 6 months. I am starting to get interested in multi-pitching. I don't know anyone who can take me, most of my climbing partners are around my same experience level. I am wondering how you all got into multi-pitching? Let me know! Thanks |
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Took classes and read books on anchors. Did a bunch of single pitch stuff, then, More classes on multi pitch, then found an easy (5.4) that was well bolted and went after it. I think I’d been climbing for 8 months or so, but I was really focused. I would practice anchors/belay technique at home and the gym. I was climbing 3-4 times during the week in the gym and at least once outside every week end. |
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First get a gri-gri. You should at least know how to set up an ATC in case of an emergency but a gri-gri is money on multi pitch. You could practice top belay on single pitch sport routes. You'll know pretty quickly whether your system is bomber or not. Where do you live? |
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Justin Curnow wrote: First get a gri-gri. You should at least know how to set up an ATC in case of an emergency but a gri-gri is money on multi pitch. You could practice top belay on single pitch sport routes. You'll know pretty quickly whether your system is bomber or not. Where do you live? Hahaha. You have no idea the shitstorm that this is going to cause. |
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Justin Curnow wrote:You'll know pretty quickly whether your system is bomber or not. Where do you live? This is not necessarily true if you don’t know how to build an anchor properly. Nothing to do with ATC vs GriGri but I have seen numerous setups where the climber has anchored themselves decently but the belay device is hanging from practically nothing. Learn anchors first. It’s not just a matter of belaying differently |
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don'tchuffonme wrote: I’d say that is probably the least controversial statement one could make in a grigri vs atc debate. Top belaying with a grigri is far smoother and safer lowering than an atc in guide mode. Assuming you can use a single rope and weight isn’t an issue there’s no reason not to. |
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Sam Meade wrote: I have been climbing for about a year, and sport leading outside for about 6 months. I am starting to get interested in multi-pitching. I don't know anyone who can take me, most of my climbing partners are around my same experience level. I am wondering how you all got into multi-pitching? Let me know! Thanks Sure, you could figure it out on your own but your likelyhood of fucking it up and killing yourself or someone else is too high. Thus, find a mentor and do some following and remember there's alot of safe ways to do the same thing, no one person has got it all figured out. Oh, and to fan the flames Gris are expensive, heavy, dangerous, and are only medicore for belaying anyway. |
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jason.cre wrote: Yes, I'm aware. I use a grigri when multipitching all the time. That wasn't my point. My point was that the proposition that a grigri is necessary, preferred or even a prerequisite to multipitch climbing as evidenced by the statement "First, get a GriGri" is likely to cause a stir. |
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Usually start from the bottom of the rock and head upwards |
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I hired a guide and went out doing classes with him three times. Three full days - one day just climbing so I could watch the multi pitch process and then participate as a follower. He explained everything he was doing and why - it wasn't just climb. Next time top rope anchor building which is not multi pitch but taught many useful skills that apply across the board. Next time a learn to lead day. I also read several books by John Long and Craig Leuben multiple times. My first partner was introduced to me by a friend and he is experienced and patient. I went out with him once a month or so on easy climbs. I joined a facebook group to find partners and started aggressively seeking some folks to climb with - it has worked out very well - I have several partners that are stronger more experienced climbers. Everyone has been great. Its been three years and I continue to learn. I practice stuff at home on the chinup bar, on trees, on the swing set. |
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jason.cre wrote: I actually hate top belaying with a Grigri. It doesn’t autoblock and the cam doesn’t work properly upside down. Maybe it’s the ropes I use, but I found that the rope would creep when weighted. Plus, lowering is not a problem with the device I use (DMM Pivot). |
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The most important thing, as others have mention, is learning about anchors, and rappelling. Take those two things seriously and you’re much more likely to be fine. |
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My daughter and I hired a AMGA guide specifically to teach us multi-pitch. It is not cheap, but well worth it. Over the course of the year, we did probably did 6 total days with him, two at a time. In between trips we would top rope/ single pitch sport, building our experience and skills, then work on what we learned during that next trip with the guide. I spent a lot of time reading and looking at videos of anchor building, then practicing at home. Next thing you know my daughter and I are doing multi pitch sport on our own. I am working on trad now, still with the same guide. I started with following and cleaning the routes, practicing putting placements in and out, then leading easy pitches. Also, AMGA guides have a set of standards/best practices(?), if that is what you want to call it. My daughter was 14 when when we started, and I felt, and still do feel, that we have been taught in a manner that is cautious (maybe conservative), maybe thorough? When there are a dozen ways to do everything, each with it's own merits, what do you do? For instance, we were taught always to back up our rappel, always, period. So that is a standard for us, but not for everybody, I understand. BTW, my guide is located in Brevard, NC., if that is your general locale and you need a name. |
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Sam Meade wrote: I am wondering how you all got into multi-pitching? Let me know! Thanks A few weekends with a climbing group. One day with a guide. The rest was “book learning” with regular climbing outside consisting of 1 part single pitch, 1 part multi with experienced, plus 8 parts multi with someone having same or less experience. |
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Tom Sherman wrote: Usually start from the bottom of the rock and head upwards :D... was just about to post the same answer |
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keep going past the anchors. |
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Watch "to the limit", "vertical limit" and "cliffhanger" and you will learn everything you need to multipitch |
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David Arredondo wrote: The most important thing, as others have mention, is learning about anchors, and rappelling. Take those two things seriously and you’re much more likely to be fine. |
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Answer summary:
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A friend that was about the same experience and I figured it out without a guide or mentor. Its certainly not the safest, easiest, or fastest way to get proficient but IMO if you have the right head for it and do your homework you'll be fine. We are both engineer types which helped a lot with understanding the dynamics of the system, how it protects you in falls, and where redundancy matters. Break it down into parts and you can actually start practicing on short single pitch. Practice systems on the ground, learn how to belay a partner up to you after you lead to the anchors, and how to both rappel to the ground from there. Once you've done that you have the very basics of multi pitch sport. If you're asking why/how parts of it work or it doesn't make sense when you're practicing it might be a good idea to find someone to help you. I also worked thru the logistics of basic rescue situations before I did my first multi pitch and chose one in cell phone range. |
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Lots of quality in this thread..... |