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How do I start multi-pitching?

Original Post
Sam Meade · · Denver · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 5

I have been climbing for about a year, and sport leading outside for about 6 months. I am starting to get interested in multi-pitching. I don't know anyone who can take me, most of my climbing partners are around my same experience level. I am wondering how you all got into multi-pitching? Let me know! Thanks

ToDoubleD Whitney · · Aptos, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 30

Took classes and read books on anchors. Did a bunch of single pitch stuff, then, More classes on multi pitch, then found an easy (5.4) that was well bolted and went after it. I think I’d been climbing for 8 months or so, but I was really focused. I would practice anchors/belay technique at home and the gym. I was climbing 3-4 times during the week in the gym and at least once outside every week end.

Justin Curnow · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 20

First get a gri-gri. You should at least know how to set up an ATC in case of an emergency but a gri-gri is money on multi pitch. You could practice top belay on single pitch sport routes. You'll know pretty quickly whether your system is bomber or not. Where do you live?

don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 26
Justin Curnow wrote: First get a gri-gri. You should at least know how to set up an ATC in case of an emergency but a gri-gri is money on multi pitch. You could practice top belay on single pitch sport routes. You'll know pretty quickly whether your system is bomber or not. Where do you live?

Hahaha.  You have no idea the shitstorm that this is going to cause.

Climb On · · Everywhere · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0
Justin Curnow wrote:You'll know pretty quickly whether your system is bomber or not. Where do you live?

This is not necessarily true if you don’t know how to build an anchor properly. Nothing to do with ATC vs GriGri but I have seen numerous setups where the climber has anchored themselves decently but the belay device is hanging from practically nothing. 

Learn anchors first. It’s not just a matter of belaying differently
jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10
don'tchuffonme wrote:

Hahaha.  You have no idea the shitstorm that this is going to cause.

I’d say that is probably the least controversial statement one could make in a grigri vs atc debate.  Top belaying with a grigri is far smoother and safer lowering than an atc in guide mode.  Assuming you can use a single rope and weight isn’t an issue there’s no reason not to.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Sam Meade wrote: I have been climbing for about a year, and sport leading outside for about 6 months. I am starting to get interested in multi-pitching. I don't know anyone who can take me, most of my climbing partners are around my same experience level. I am wondering how you all got into multi-pitching? Let me know! Thanks

Sure, you could figure it out on your own but your likelyhood of fucking it up and killing yourself or someone else is too high. Thus, find a mentor and do some following and remember there's alot of safe ways to do the same thing, no one person has got it all figured out.

Oh, and to fan the flames Gris are expensive, heavy, dangerous, and are only medicore for belaying anyway.
don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 26
jason.cre wrote:

I’d say that is probably the least controversial statement one could make in a grigri vs atc debate.  Top belaying with a grigri is far smoother and safer lowering than an atc in guide mode.  Assuming you can use a single rope and weight isn’t an issue there’s no reason not to.

Yes, I'm aware.  I use a grigri when multipitching all the time.  That wasn't  my point.  My point was that the proposition that a grigri is necessary, preferred or even a prerequisite to multipitch climbing as evidenced by the statement "First, get a GriGri" is likely to cause a stir.  

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

Usually start from the bottom of the rock and head upwards 

neils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 30

I hired a guide and went out doing classes with him three times.  Three full days - one day just climbing so I could watch the multi pitch process and then participate as a follower.  He explained everything he was doing and why - it wasn't just climb.  Next time top rope anchor building which is not multi pitch but taught many useful skills that apply across the board.  Next time a learn to lead day.  I also read several books by John Long and Craig Leuben multiple times.  My first partner was introduced to me by a friend and he is experienced and patient.  I went out with him once a month or so on easy climbs.  I joined a facebook group to find partners and started aggressively seeking some folks to climb with - it has worked out very well - I have several partners that are stronger more experienced climbers.  Everyone has been great.  Its been three years and I continue to learn.  I practice stuff at home on the chinup bar, on trees, on the swing set.

I felt much like you - how do I do this?  How do I learn?  This is so un-approachable.  It really isn't.  If you have some cash to hire a guide it speeds up the process and I can't say enough good stuff about doing that.  But there are many good, cool, safe, experienced people that will take someone new out.  If you know how to belay well and are chill I think you can find some good people to learn from if you are willing to make the effort and talk to strangers.  When I climb with someone new I have never met we talk - on the phone - and get a feel.  I know others experience may vary but I have yet to have a bad experience.  The worst I had so far was a dude that didn't show up.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
jason.cre wrote:

I’d say that is probably the least controversial statement one could make in a grigri vs atc debate.  Top belaying with a grigri is far smoother and safer lowering than an atc in guide mode.  Assuming you can use a single rope and weight isn’t an issue there’s no reason not to.

I actually hate top belaying with a Grigri.  It doesn’t autoblock and the cam doesn’t work properly upside down.  Maybe it’s the ropes I use, but I found that the rope would creep when weighted.  Plus, lowering is not a problem with the device I use (DMM Pivot).

David Arredondo · · Austin, TX · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 15

The most important thing, as others have mention, is learning about anchors, and rappelling. Take those two things seriously and you’re much more likely to be fine.

I’d also recommend starting with an easy sport multi pitch, because of the obvious decrease in complexity from any traditionally protected route.

Oh, and for whether a gri gri is really necessary, consider the munter hitch, and the method found in the link below (can’t remember its name)
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.climbing.com/.amp/skills/rappel-without-a-belay-device/

P.S. I love my gri gri—but I also love my DMM pivot.

James Lee · · Mobile, AL · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 35

My daughter and I hired a AMGA guide specifically to teach us multi-pitch. It is not cheap, but well worth it. Over the course of the year, we did probably did 6 total days with him, two at a time. In between trips we would top rope/ single pitch sport, building our experience and skills, then work on what we learned during that next trip with the guide. I spent a lot of time reading and looking at videos of anchor building, then practicing at home. Next thing you know my daughter and I are doing multi pitch sport on our own. I am working on trad now, still with the same guide. I started with following and cleaning the routes, practicing putting placements in and out, then leading easy pitches. Also, AMGA guides have a set of standards/best practices(?), if that is what you want to call it. My daughter was 14 when when we started, and I felt, and still do feel, that we have been taught in a manner that is cautious (maybe conservative), maybe thorough? When there are a dozen ways to do everything, each with it's own merits, what do you do? For instance, we were taught always to back up our rappel, always, period. So that is a standard for us, but not for everybody, I understand. BTW, my guide is located in Brevard, NC., if that is your general locale and you need a name.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,814
Sam Meade wrote:  I am wondering how you all got into multi-pitching? Let me know! Thanks

A few weekends with a climbing group. One day with a guide. The rest was “book learning” with regular climbing outside consisting of 1 part single pitch, 1 part multi with experienced, plus 8 parts multi with someone having same or less experience.

Big B · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1
Tom Sherman wrote: Usually start from the bottom of the rock and head upwards 

:D... was just about to post the same answer

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60

keep going past the anchors.

Luke Andraka · · Crownsville, MD · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 15

Watch "to the limit", "vertical limit" and "cliffhanger" and you will learn everything you need to multipitch

Justin Curnow · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 20
David Arredondo wrote: The most important thing, as others have mention, is learning about anchors, and rappelling. Take those two things seriously and you’re much more likely to be fine.

I’d also recommend starting with an easy sport multi pitch, because of the obvious decrease in complexity from any traditionally protected route.

Oh, and for whether a gri gri is really necessary, consider the munter hitch, and the method found in the link below (can’t remember its name)
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.climbing.com/.amp/skills/rappel-without-a-belay-device/

P.S. I love my gri gri—but I also love my DMM pivot.
NegativeK · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

Answer summary:

  1. Teach yourself. Books, videos, friends who are at the same level as you.
  2. Find a mentor.
  3. Pay for a class or a one-on-one guide.
1 is lowest cost, highest potential risk, and longest potential time. 3 is highest cost, lowest potential risk, and shortest potential time.
Jason Eberhard · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 111

A friend that was about the same experience and I figured it out without a guide or mentor.  Its certainly not the safest, easiest, or fastest way to get proficient but IMO if you have the right head for it and do your homework you'll be fine.  We are both engineer types which helped a lot with understanding the dynamics of the system, how it protects you in falls, and where redundancy matters.  Break it down into parts and you can actually start practicing on short single pitch.  Practice systems on the ground, learn how to belay a partner up to you after you lead to the anchors, and how to both rappel to the ground from there.  Once you've done that you have the very basics of multi pitch sport.  If you're asking why/how parts of it work or it doesn't make sense when you're practicing it might be a good idea to find someone to help you.  I also worked thru the logistics of basic rescue situations before I did my first multi pitch and chose one in cell phone range.

Dan H · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Lots of quality in this thread.....

But in all seriousness.

Cheap Option:

1.  Do some research on your own (the internet is a powerful place) and dont thrust things you read on here.
2.  Use the partner finder on here and go do some single pitch with them. (There are a lot of experienced climbers out there who just want a warm body to belay)
3.  Then move on with them to a multi that will be easy for you so that you spend less time focusing on trying hard and more time on learning the systems.

Not so Cheap (but is it really not worth the money):

1.  Hire a guide
2.  Ask Why and How as much as possible.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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