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Moderately Aggressive Shoes & Morton's Toe

Original Post
Kyle Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

After months of abuse & dead toenails I'm ready to leave my moccasyms behind. A lot of research has led me to believe many people are almost trigger-happy to condem me to neutral shoes (Mythos is always the 1st recommendation). As I understand it, shoes like that are great for cracks/slab which I rarely do. I need a shoe that edges well. Is there any hope for a Morton-toed monster like me?

jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

probably not much of a hope.  I find the Anasazi fits my mortons toe well, but its hardly aggressive. 

John Griffiths · · Emeryville, CA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

I have a morton's toe. I love my tc pros for edging and everything else I find on my multi-pitch routes other in NorCal.  For sport I find evolve, particularly shamans fit with my toes well. 

Zacks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 65

I have mortons toe (thats the longer middle second toe right) just like all the models in Greek and Renaissance art.

I have been very happy with my tenayas.  I'm on my like 4th set of the RA and they are a way better shoe than i first thought they where, also my oasis are pretty comphy but not as much as the ra which i might actually be able to climb harder in now... go figure.  They aren't insanely aggressive but i still love them for steep overhangs and slab.  I also demo'd some scarpas i think it was the boostic or somthing and they where great, I just couldn't justify the price jump from my tenayas on sale...

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

Try the Tenaya shoes - I have been very happy with them.  Even fit pretty tight they are pain free and comfortable - no doubt the most comfortable performance shoe I've ever worn.  Not horribly aggressive but they are certainly worth a try.  I have the Iati and Inti's - I know its all about fit but both fit me toe, arch, and heel - and climb way better than I can. 

Caleb Schwarz · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 120

Testerossas. I have very wide duck feet. My Morton's is less pronounced than some, but for high volume wide feet, testerossa can't be beat for aggressiveness and putting power to your toe.

Edit: they definitely fall on the extremely aggressive side of things. Maybe more than you're looking for

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Caleb Schwarz wrote: Testerossas. I have very wide duck feet. My Morton's is less pronounced than some, but for high volume wide feet, testerossa can't be beat for aggressiveness and putting power to your toe.

Edit: they definitely fall on the extremely aggressive side of things. Maybe more than you're looking for

I have an even second toe, not quite mortons and love testarossas. Let a partner try mine who has a significant morton toe and she liked them also, despite having a narrow foot. The lacing system works so well for any foot volume. I agree they are probably more aggressive in the knuckle of the toe box than the OP wants though. 

The skwama, otaki, katakai and katana lace are also worth trying on. They have a less aggressive taper and fit more than the "egyptian" foot shape.

In general fitting a downturn sport shoe with mortons toe isn't too terrible, it's the flat fit for jamming thin hands that's a royal PITA.
grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Mocasyms made my toes issues worse, as well as TC pros. I gave them both up for some Scarpas. 

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,175

5.10 Hiangles fit me well, and since they're quite stiff you can size up and still get a good high-performance shoe.

Travis Bieber · · Fort Collins · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,216

Sportiva Katanas. Edging monsters

Joe Lange · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 20

Second on the Katana Laces, I found the Katakis are really good as well. I was even able to downsize the katakis a half of a size from my katanas which is very rare for me. 

Christian RodaoBack · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,486

Second Miura VS, though I cannot size them down too much. Wear size 9 street and size 8 (40.5) in the Miuras.

Travis Bieber · · Fort Collins · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,216
Joe Lange wrote: Second on the Katana Laces, I found the Katakis are really good as well. I was even able to downsize the katakis a half of a size from my katanas which is very rare for me. 

I found the same thing for me

Bill Shubert · · Lexington, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 55

Miura VS here. Pronounced Morton's toe. I wouldn't call them comfortable, I do get aching toes and once in a while a cracked nail, but I've been able to wear them for over 3 years now with no major problems.

bridge · · Gardiner, NY · Joined May 2016 · Points: 95

Another one for the Miura VS.  Scarpa Technos for trad comfort.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625
Bill Shubert wrote: Miura VS here, but I've been able to wear them for over 3 years now with no major problems.

Even when you sleep? They must be comfy!

Mark Hammond · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 511

Another vote for the La Sportiva Katakis!

Stephen C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

I have Mortons toe and most Sportivas fit me pretty well. I typically use Speedsters and Solutions, but I've also had good luck with Miuras and Testarossas. Aggressive Five Ten shoes i found to be terrible for mortons toe. They left me with a lot of dead space in the toe.

jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10
Stephen C wrote: I have Mortons toe and most Sportivas fit me pretty well. I typically use Speedsters and Solutions, but I've also had good luck with Miuras and Testarossas. Aggressive Five Ten shoes i found to be terrible for mortons toe. They left me with a lot of dead space in the toe.

Interesting....I have a pronounced morton toe and find the exact opposite.  Sportivas KILL me (specifically the toe....really only the toe) and 5.10 is the best I have found.  Guess theres a lot more to it than that middle toe.

RobG814 · · Wilmington, NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 335

I have found a few shoes that fit well with Morton’s toe. My top suggestion would be Miuras (lace or VS) or Shamans

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 280

Seconding Tenaya. They don’t bias toward the big toe as aggressively as most. Evolv is good too, but a little more big toe-focused

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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