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Grand Ledge, MI anchors...

Original Post
Mike Behrend · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 265

I hope someone may benefit from analyzing the pictures of unsafe climbing anchors that I'm going to post on this thread.

In the case that someone doesn't know how to build a safe climbing anchor for top roping at this single pitch crag, and a more knowledgeable/experienced climber approaches them, I think the best case scenario is that both parties are polite and open to having a conversation about safety. If they can do that, they will likely build a safer anchor and nobody gets hurt!

This is a wonderful crag for what it is, and I hope it stays publicly accessible. The last thing this crag needs is a long list of injuries or deaths from folks that are too proud to be safe. There have been some recent accidents from folks buying what they thought was climbing gear at home depot and walmart, some 'youtube education', and poorly constructed top rope anchors that ended up in multiple months in a hospital.

Some of the crowd seems to think if it won't kill people, the anchor is fine.

Why not raise the bar from 'probably won't kill people' to actually quite safe for people to climb on?

Two sites on this topic:
1.  jive-assanchors.com/     2.  https://dumbanchors.blogspot.com/ 

This first picture is not the worst possible, there are clearly some points hit on the SERENE/EARNEST/TRADS acronym but it's still not quite up to par. Why not equalize between anchor points? 

Mike Behrend · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 265
Mike Behrend · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 265

The second picture was their improvement after speaking with them.

Mike Behrend · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 265
What does the 'A' in EARNEST stand for?
Mike Behrend · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 265

A figure eight on a bight master point would make this anchor equalized and minimize the effect of a potential shock load. At least they padded the edge to avoid abrasion on their gear and the soft rock.

Perhaps climbers can aim to have a smaller impact on the trees/overall site through better practices than running the entire length of webbing around trees, removing all of the bark that may eventually kill the trees. A figure eight on a bight or overhand on a bight girth hitched around natural protection would be better, maybe even bringing some padding to protect the trees! 
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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