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10mm or 12mm bolts
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Been unsuccessfully trying to find information on which size is more appropriate or when to use one over the other. Obviously the 12mm will be stronger, but it will also take longer to drill. Thoughts? Asides from needing to match bolts and hangers, metals with metals.... |
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Depends on rock type & bolt type but the 10mm stuff is falling out of favor fast. If you're in SLC I imagine you're looking at granite and quartzite primarily. Granite is soft, 12 mm goes in like butter with a decent drill, might as well go big. Quartzite is hard a hell and the difference between drilling a 3/8 (10 mm ish) vs 1/2 (12 mm) hole is noticeable, especially if you're looking at longer bolts. So is the price increase in bits and bolts. If you're talking about sandstone or limestone, go with 1/2. |
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What type of rock? |
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unfortunately hand drilling for now. LCC granite is what Im looking at, but quartzite isnt out of the question. |
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Eeeeekk... I've hand drilled a couple of 3/8 x 2-3/4 holes for 5-piece RAWLS in LCC, I wouldn't recommend it. It works but you'd better be patient and at a good stance. Unless you're a glutton for punishment limit yourself to a few bolts on a mixed route, sport routes are out of the question. In quartzite I'd say forget it and pound a bunch of pins... |
Boissal - wrote: Eeeeekk... I've hand drilled a couple of 3/8 x 2-3/4 holes for 5-piece RAWLS in LCC, I wouldn't recommend it. It works but you'd better be patient and at a good stance. Unless you're a glutton for punishment limit yourself to a few bolts on a mixed route, sport routes are out of the question. In quartzite I'd say forget it and pound a bunch of pins... Or just stick to a top rope... If were me, and I was sure that this soon-to-be mega classic needed to be sent, I'd find some 3/8" stainless powerbolts (yeah, not made anymore but a few of us have a stash) in the shortest length or the best 3/8" stainless stud bolt I could find (Hilti KBIII) and use those.Save your hand/wrists from carpal tunnel (etc), don't do a bunch of hand drilling...especially in quartzite. |
Brian in SLC wrote: Brian, you forgot elbows and shoulders! And bashed knuckles. |
John Byrnes wrote: Unfortunately....I still forget to wear gloves when I tighten bolts...still knock off gobs of knuckle skin even with a power drill...(heavy sigh). Funny...I'm right handed and you'd think my carpal tunnel issues would be in that hand, but, its my left. Hanging from a leash ice climbing and holding a hand drill...had to have an impact.Kids, watch those overuse situations...and, don't carry a heavy pack! (Lessons learned the hard way...ugh). |
John Martin2 wrote: Been unsuccessfully trying to find information on which size is more appropriate or when to use one over the other. Obviously the 12mm will be stronger, but it will also take longer to drill. Thoughts? Asides from needing to match bolts and hangers, metals with metals.... You are in the US, there is no reason to use either 10mm or 12mm as they will be way more expensive than 3/8" or 1/2" that are readily available here. Also, you will soon be hating life if you are trying to bolt with a hand drill, there is a reason that 1/4" bolts were the standard back when hand drilling was the norm. |
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The reason why 10mm or 12mm is that I have access to discounted Mammut hardware so when it's half price, its hard to pass |
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Savings on 10mm bolts might be negated by having to buy 10mm drill bits.... |
John Martin2 wrote: The reason why 10mm or 12mm is that I have access to discounted Mammut hardware so when it's half price, its hard to pass Just a quick search on Mammut's site seems to show that they only sell a 10mm bolt, no 12mm, and the normal price is $5 for a wedge bolt, so even at 1/2 price that is way more than I've ever paid for a 3/8" stainless wedge. |
