Dyneema vs. Nylon Runner for anchoring

amarius wrote:

BlackDiamond QC Lab did some testing, and they were kind to publish results:

And, of course, they tested belay loops after varying degrees of abuse: qc-lab-strength-of-worn-belay-loops

Exactly right. And if you cut a standard sling by 75% you would not get remotely the same results as you do with belay loops because of their more robust and redundant construction.

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Ahh that's better

*Therapist*
"Tut, how does this make you feel?"

Caleb Schwarz wrote:

*Therapist*
"Tut, how does this make you feel?"

Not Tut, but change that overhand to a clove hitch, and yer' golden...personal preference. Easy to untie and uses less material.

Buck Rio wrote:

Not Tut, but change that overhand to a clove hitch, and yer' golden...personal preference. Easy to untie and uses less material.

That's what I use regularly, but I tied a figure 9 (10?) To take up extra material so the belay was a little higher

Caleb Schwarz wrote:

That's what I use regularly, but I tied a figure 9 (10?) To take up extra material so the belay was a little higher

OMG did you learn nothing from this thread?  It can be "reasonably" backed up so it should be.  YGD.  Please put some nylon in there somewhere so "someone" doesn't burst a goddamned vein.

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

What kind of engineering do you do anyways?

What do you do for a living, Tut?

Caleb Schwarz wrote:

*Therapist*
"Tut, how does this make you feel?"

On behalf of myself and those anonymous noobs who are (perhaps rightfully) terrified to post on here, but still reading these threads, is this a good anchor? Placements, etc? It looks good, and super simple, but I'm in uncharted territory with gear!

Yeah, there's too many commas. Get over it, I is defnitly uneddicaded.

Best, OLH

Old lady H wrote:

On behalf of myself and those anonymous noobs who are (perhaps rightfully) terrified to post on here, but still reading these threads, is this a good anchor? Placements, etc? It looks good, and super simple, but I'm in uncharted territory with gear!

Yeah, there's too many commas. Get over it, I is defnitly uneddicaded.

Best, OLH

If the top nut is good, which I am going to assume is the case for argument sake, this is an anchor I would be happy to use. It is multidirectional, the alien is good. The only thing you may want is another piece for downward pull. But I often put two nuts/cams in, and if they are really good solid pieces, will dispense with the third for downward. The black totem is also multidirectional, and hold the other two in their proper aspects. 

You'll now here from the peanut gallery that yer gonna die. 

Old lady H wrote:

On behalf of myself and those anonymous noobs who are (perhaps rightfully) terrified to post on here, but still reading these threads, is this a good anchor? Placements, etc? It looks good, and super simple, but I'm in uncharted territory with gear!

Yeah, there's too many commas. Get over it, I is defnitly uneddicaded.

Best, OLH

Well it does sorta have an ADT in it but than not exactly... due to the direction of pull more of a pointless cam.

This anchor was built on a very large ledge and the next pitch is difficult and long, so I wanted to save gear for it if possible. Furthermore, the opening moves on the next pitch are quite difficult, and so there was a high chance of getting pulled upward off the belay if the leader falls. The black cam is there to avoid pulling the gear up to limit the chance of them getting pulled out. If the belay ledge was smaller or if it was a hanging belay, placing 3 or 4 pieces would be a much higher priority.

Caleb Schwarz wrote: This anchor was built on a very large ledge and the next pitch is difficult and long, so I wanted to save gear for it if possible. Furthermore, the opening moves on the next pitch are quite difficult, and so there was a high chance of getting pulled upward off the belay if the leader falls. The black cam is there to avoid pulling the gear up to limit the chance of them getting pulled out. If the belay ledge was smaller or if it was a hanging belay, placing 3 or 4 pieces would be a much higher priority.

You used a dyneema anchor before a pitch with a higher than average chance of a factor 2 fall?  Why not use accessory cord or the rope instead?

jg fox wrote:

You used a dyneema anchor before a pitch with a higher than average chance of a factor 2 fall?  Why not use accessory cord or the rope instead?

because the gear will likely pull before that sling breaks

(haters start hating)

curt86iroc wrote:

because the gear will likely pull before that sling breaks

(haters start hating)

Alrighty then.

Caleb Schwarz wrote:

*Therapist*
"Tut, how does this make you feel?"

"B" for overall efficiency. If you threw another piece in a "B+" for general bombproof.

"A" if you throw another clove on that gold biner/yellow alien and you'll make the grumpy hrumpster feel all warm and fuzzy. Just tie in twice, its good policy.

The other quibble is that the Alien appears to have a wide spot above it that could compromise in an upward jerk. This puts you particularly dependent on the Black Totem for integrity of both the nut and Alien. If the Totem is all it can be then fine.

So, efficient for multi-pitch trad fast and light mission, but it ain't no Big Wall anchor for moving freight.

jg fox wrote:

What do you do for a living, Tut?

I'm a burned out Surgeon, how about you?

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

I'm a burned out Surgeon, how about you?

Electrical engineer.

jg fox wrote:

Alrighty then.

so, now that we've established you work with electrons...

Thanks, guys! This is one of the few anchor photos I've seen with an obvious opposing piece for an upward pull. That, I will need to consider if I choose to anchor myself as a light belayer, on mere single pitch.

Best, OLH

Old lady H wrote: Thanks, guys! This is one of the few anchor photos I've seen with an obvious opposing piece for an upward pull. That, I will need to consider if I choose to anchor myself as a light belayer, on mere single pitch.

Best, OLH

Most "textbooks" and blog posts neglect this to show how a "cord or "web-ollette" can be tied but it is utterly critical to have directional stability (so the anchor is strong from any direction) in any gear anchor.