SoCal Guidebooks

Howdy folks,

Studying for the bar, moved back in with moms for the summer. She lives in Dana Point. Was looking for some scoop on any guidebooks for the southern California area, particularly south OC. I'm not familiar with the area, and none of the local gyms seem to carry any of them. Any y'all would recommend?

I'm assuming that some of the more inland spots like New Jack will be just way too hot to actually climb at during the summer, any experience?

I picked up Southern California rock climbing by Tom slater not long ago.

Briefly covers each spot but it covers a lot of ground and includes a few smaller crags. For someone like me who is rarely in that area but still functions better with a book, it works very well for getting me on great routes in an area I’m not familiar with and really does cover a bunch of SoCal. I’m sure somebody more local could recommend a more spot specific book for down that way.
As far as high desert goes, your kinda screwed for the summer but if you have a few days off, just check the weather at a bunch of different spots. That’s usually how I decide where I’m going. Managed to actually get in a good day out in Joshua Tree with nobody there while visiting a friend near the area just a week ago. 

I’m not aware of much climbing in the OC area other than Pirate’s Cove. Malibu Creek can be a good option for sport climbing when it’s hot out. Check out Sport Climbing the Santa Monica Mountains for the creek and other coastal crags (Pt Dume, Saddle Peak aka Corpse Wall).

Not sure what the best book is for San Diego area, but I assume it’s pretty hot at most SD crags in summer.

There isn't much local climbing outside the gym, and maybe in a few secret spots.  There is Pirate's Cove and Ortega Highway (which may not technically be in OC).  Further out there is a fair bit of climbing in the IE with the Quarry, Idy, Frustration Creek... The Loius Anderson has a guidebook for the Riverside Quarry and I have the Vogel & Gaines book for Tahquitz and Suicide.  But you can get by with MP for the most part, at least as a 1st resource.

The reason you haven't found any guides is because there's nothing in south OC, other than the Ortega Hwy., which is pretty limited.  Your options are either bouldering at the Beach (Corona del Mar), but that's an weekday afternoon, low tide endeavor, or just drive south to San Diego since you're not too far from where you're at.  

Study well.  You only want to take the bar once.  

Thanks folks! I really appreciate the advice.