"stiffie" quick draw

Thinking of buying or making a “stiffie” quickdraw for a couple of routes at a local crag.  One in particular has the crux moves between bolts with guarnteed decking on a ledge of u blow the crux.  It’s a super enjoyable route but I generally avoid climbing because of the decking potential with the crux being just out of reach of the bolt.

Was thinking of buying either the kong panic draw or taping a stick to an existing draw and using a mad rock trigger wire biner.  

They make the panic in 45 and 30 cm.  My inclination is that if I’m doing a route where I want the extra reach I would want as much as possible but 45 cm seems like it may be a bit floppy or hard to handle even with the wire or it would rack super weird and make me not want to bring it up.

One other use I can think of is that there are a few climbs I can think of with a first bolt at like 20 feet which are just inches too tall for my stick clip.  Could I use a draw like this to get that last couple inches of extension?  

the downside of making my own is that the longest sport draws I usually bring are 25 cm.

The forum has a few posts about this if you go DIY. Safety first..

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/110532905/long-stiff-draw
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114177260/kong-panic-system
https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/gear/kong_panic_system_rigid_quickdraws-630567

wisam wrote: Thinking of buying or making a “stiffie” quickdraw for a couple of routes at a local crag.  One in particular has the crux moves between bolts with guarnteed decking on a ledge of u blow the crux.  It’s a super enjoyable route but I generally avoid climbing because of the decking potential with the crux being just out of reach of the bolt.

Was thinking of buying either the kong panic draw or taping a stick to an existing draw and using a mad rock trigger wire biner.  

They make the panic in 45 and 30 cm.  My inclination is that if I’m doing a route where I want the extra reach I would want as much as possible but 45 cm seems like it may be a bit floppy or hard to handle even with the wire or it would rack super weird and make me not want to bring it up.

One other use I can think of is that there are a few climbs I can think of with a first bolt at like 20 feet which are just inches too tall for my stick clip.  Could I use a draw like this to get that last couple inches of extension?  

the downside of making my own is that the longest sport draws I usually bring are 25 cm.

I climbed with someone that just took a draw made of a medium length sling or tied webbing with a MadRock Trigger Wire on one end, wrapped or sandwiched the sling part in cardboard and wrapped that in duct tape right up to the biners.  It was probably 18-20" long and worked just fine.  It was relatively light and not really a pain to carry.  If you were to somehow fall on it the cardboard will bend, but it's plenty stiff for when you need it.  Every once in a while you can undo the tape and cardboard to inspect the sling or replace the cardboard and then reassemble from your next empty beer case or amazon box. 

Was thinking to rack it on the back gear loop with the gate held open. Any issues with them getting triggered while climbing?  Seems like it would be kind of hard to reset them mid climb unless it can somehow be done one handed 

wisam wrote: 

One other use I can think of is that there are a few climbs I can think of with a first bolt at like 20 feet which are just inches too tall for my stick clip.  Could I use a draw like this to get that last couple inches of extension?  

Don't most stick clips attach to the bolt-side biner?  I don't see how a stiff sling would help in this situation.  

I personally would go home-made.  Paul's suggestion of a cardboard reinforced rabbit-runner sounds good.  Definitely cheaper than the Kong Panic Draw.  If one of your buddies isn't psyched on your arts and crafts project, don't use it.  

Paul L wrote:

... but it's plenty stiff for when you need it. ...

climbing friend,

that is what she would be saying!

My experience with a panic and a trigger wire is that they won’t reliably stay open if dangling off your harness.

I have a long panic which I use for full on project mode. I clip it behind my back to gear loops on opposite hips so it is horizontal below my chalk bag belt.

My wife uses the short panic and it just hangs from a gear loop ok.

She likes it a lot, maybe too much :-)

I personally love the kong panic and would recommend it  or you can make your own with a mad rock trigger wire.  But the kong panic still supersedes making your own.

Go to the gym and train harder. Climb the route when you are fit. Not everyone should be able to climb everything. 

Don't gatekeep tosh.  Nothing wrong with not wanting to shatter your ankles.

#iaidsportroutes

Go with a Kong panic, it is what you are looking for...

tosh forrence wrote: Go to the gym and train harder. Climb the route when you are fit. Not everyone should be able to climb everything. 

climbing friend,

I am in agreement.

assuming you proh-jict route that is not PG13 or X, and ground or ledgefall is not present, and you do not want to be terrible climber, constantly eroding your boldness with these some practices while pretending to yourownself and the other that you are not and that you are not quite terrified,

you shall not toprope,
you shall not haul stick clip up on the route with you,
you shall not utilize "stiffie" draw, at all, ever, (and utilizing this name of "stiffie" for draw it raises many questions about you???)
you shall not "clip up" to next bolt while "in direct" after most recent failure,
you shall not hang long sling from bolt for lower clippings because you are weak and afraid,
you shall go for crux move and "take the big one," many meters falling, through time and space

do not follow these proclamations most holy if you would like to become cowering rifle climber that stick clips through the crux and would not dream of trying hard move above a bolt without every piece microbeta carefully rehearsed at least several times

all your flash are belong to me

wisam wrote: They make the panic in 45 and 30 cm.  My inclination is that if I’m doing a route where I want the extra reach I would want as much as possible but 45 cm seems like it may be a bit floppy or hard to handle even with the wire or it would rack super weird and make me not want to bring it up.

One other use I can think of is that there are a few climbs I can think of with a first bolt at like 20 feet which are just inches too tall for my stick clip.  Could I use a draw like this to get that last couple inches of extension?  

the downside of making my own is that the longest sport draws I usually bring are 25 cm.

The Kong Panic is very nice. Easy to engage the open-gate locking mechanism with one hand so you can hang it on your harness like a standard draw until you need it. We have the 45cm and it's crazy long. A bit floppy but still handles well enough for the big reaches. That said, it's annoying AF while hanging on your harness. Sure you can clip both biners of the draw to your gear loops to keep it from hanging long and floppy but that's a bit of PITA to unclip while on the send. 

If we were to do it again, we'd get the 30cm--still lots of reach and but not stoopid long. It doesn't help for those situations where your stick clip is too short, though. Maybe your could rig it with tape with the rope-end biner lightly taped to the end of your stick clip...maybe. 

tosh forrence wrote: Go to the gym and train harder. Climb the route when you are fit. Not everyone should be able to climb everything. 

thus spoketh the 5.8 trad climber!  (LOLZ...)

Sorry slim, I haven't updated my stats lately. 

tosh forrence wrote: Sorry slim, I haven't updated my stats lately. 

You are only as strong as your page. Man, don't you know that?

thats the only way to send, page updates.

tosh forrence wrote: Sorry slim, I haven't updated my stats lately. 

oh, my bad.

thus spoketh the mighty 10b trad climber!!  (LOLZ.... is that better?)

Lower the bolt

wisam wrote: 
One other use I can think of is that there are a few climbs I can think of with a first bolt at like 20 feet which are just inches too tall for my stick clip.  Could I use a draw like this to get that last couple inches of extension?  

No, because the stick clip attaches to the top carabiner, making the length of the draw irrelevant. 

if you had some tape you could tape the stiffy to the end of the stick clip and get a little bit more, i would think.

my wife and I have both the 30 and the 45 Panic. The 30 never gets taken anymore. The 45 is fantastic for her to clip high bolts placed from stances made for taller people. i'd say the Panic was as instrumental to her breaking into projecting local 5.13 as bouldering. before the Panic, she would get shut down when she would reach an obvious clipping stance and be forced to move into a strenuous, ankle-threatening next move to clip. on one route in particular, the bolt was placed high from a stance because the move off the stance was a dyno, meaning without the panic, it would have been a runout, likely injurious dyno for her

when it comes to stuff like this and stick clips, people that talk about "just get stronger or more confident" have rarely or never faced a dyno to an unknown hold on lead