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Black Diamond Shadow

Original Post
Moe Montana · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

Heya,

Did anyone already have the chance to test these bad boys out? I couldn't find a whole lot of information about them on the forum but got curious due to a review on gearjunkies (I think) and ordered a pair.
My first impression was that this shoe fits my rather wide and flat feet very well (got them in street shoe size). The heel section is especially nice because I got a rather narrow and dorsally protruding heel and the shoe just suctions to it with a really bomber fit. The heel section of this shoe is pretty long.
They are super snug right now and I expect them to stretch a bit and conform more to my toe box so the pressure on my big toe (which is tolerable but quite uncomfortable right now) might get a bit lower. Otherwise they are pretty comfortable and the rather thin upper makes them feel light, though it has kind of a rubber/plastic like feel from inside which I don't really love (but that's very subjective).They feel pretty soft and sensitive which is nice but stable enough for confident edging I guess (did not have the chance to test them on the wall yet but will do to day). They have a solid patch of rubber for toe hooking which does not seem to make the toe box as unflexible and uncomfortable as some other shoes do.
I'd really like to hear some of your experience with this shoe. I'm tempted to keep them but they are also among the most expensive shoes you could buy right now, at least in Germany. For a shoe this expensive I am a bit concerned about resoling. Does Black Diamond provide their rubber to resoling companies? Maybe someone got a a pair of shadows or other BD shoes resoled already and can comment about this.

I would use them as my primary shoe for bouldering and hard gym climbing. Some may  consider a shoe like that a waste for this purpose but gym climbing is kind of a big deal for me. I climb way more indoors than outdoors because the next crag is pretty far from my hometown and my job does not allow me to get there much more than one or two times a week (also I don't do super hard steep sport climbing outdoors in contrast to the gym).

Oh and I almost forgot those shoes look REALLY sick!

Looking forward to hear from you guys have a great day!

Moe Montana · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks John, that helps a lot. I think I'm getting a bit more into bouldering so the problem you addressed might be a thing. I say might because I do much more route climbing and I very rarely encounter critical toe hooks (sadly our gym doesn't have exactly great roof sections).
Also got a pair of Shamans lying around (super comfortable but sloppier heel and less sensitive as it felt) and have ordered a few pairs of solutions which should arrive soon. I think the best fitting pair will stay.

La MoMoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60

I actually think Butora rubber is now available at Rock n Resole, but you'd have to find their number first.

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

On the note of resoling, I recall a video with the designer when BD launched their shoes stating that the molded sole was actually thinner in the ball of the foot to allow more flex to smear. If you resole them with a sheet of 4mm rubber they may perform a bit different. 

Moe Montana · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

Good to know thanks! Yeah, if I stick with them I think I'm gonna get them resoled at least once we'll see with wich type of rubber. I tested them a bit on the boulder wall today and I am quite impressed. They are really sensitive, soft and sticky. Actually they seem like being not only useful for steep climbing but pretty good all around. It's gonna be tough to decide between the Shaman and those. The Shaman seems more supportive and I felt a bit more secure in them but they certainly feel like the more specialized shoe. Also noticeably less sensitive but comfy as hell.

Steven Claggett · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

I picked these up right when they were released, so I've had them for a few months now. They are currently my "performance shoe" reserved for hard stuff for two reasons. First, I sized these like I would size my Scarpas (half size down from street shoe) and they are TIIIIIGHT. The resoling issue that has already been brought up is the second reason though. They are indeed molded so that the middle of the forefoot is thin while the edge is robust, and you can tell in the performance of the shoe. For this reason though, unless BD starts providing soles to resolers (I've been looking and haven't seen it yet), having them resoled will drastically change the way this shoe acts/feels/performs.
It does indeed have a kinda sticky feel on the inside. Personally I really like this. I think it enhances the sensitivity of the shoe and would allow for you to size the shoe a little less aggressively without foot-shoe slippage (one of my biggest pet peeves as I have a lower volume foot).

Moe Montana · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0
Steven Claggett wrote: I picked these up right when they were released, so I've had them for a few months now. They are currently my "performance shoe" reserved for hard stuff for two reasons. First, I sized these like I would size my Scarpas (half size down from street shoe) and they are TIIIIIGHT. The resoling issue that has already been brought up is the second reason though. They are indeed molded so that the middle of the forefoot is thin while the edge is robust, and you can tell in the performance of the shoe. For this reason though, unless BD starts providing soles to resolers (I've been looking and haven't seen it yet), having them resoled will drastically change the way this shoe acts/feels/performs.
It does indeed have a kinda sticky feel on the inside. Personally I really like this. I think it enhances the sensitivity of the shoe and would allow for you to size the shoe a little less aggressively without foot-shoe slippage (one of my biggest pet peeves as I have a lower volume foot).

Thanks a lot for your opinion on this shoe Steven I really appreciate it! We seem to think kind of the same about the Shadow and you seem to be quite happy with it which is great    After being able to test them a bit on the wall I absolutely agree. The thin and sticky upper material is awesome the shoe literally molds to your feet and absolutely stays in place, plus the shoe as a whole feels very light and agile on your feet. Gonna be a very tough decision between these and the Shaman, budget doesn't allow both lol. If I get to keep it I'm very curious how they will take a resole (thinking about XS Grip) cause this will likely determine if I'll get another pair in the future or not. 

Tradgic Yogurt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 55
Steven Claggett wrote: I picked these up right when they were released, so I've had them for a few months now. They are currently my "performance shoe" reserved for hard stuff for two reasons. First, I sized these like I would size my Scarpas (half size down from street shoe) and they are TIIIIIGHT. The resoling issue that has already been brought up is the second reason though. They are indeed molded so that the middle of the forefoot is thin while the edge is robust, and you can tell in the performance of the shoe. For this reason though, unless BD starts providing soles to resolers (I've been looking and haven't seen it yet), having them resoled will drastically change the way this shoe acts/feels/performs.
It does indeed have a kinda sticky feel on the inside. Personally I really like this. I think it enhances the sensitivity of the shoe and would allow for you to size the shoe a little less aggressively without foot-shoe slippage (one of my biggest pet peeves as I have a lower volume foot).

How's the smell factor so far?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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