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rap or lower at Jackson Falls

Original Post
Nate Parker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

I was reading the guidebook and it does not really talk about prefered method.  The couple of times we have been there we rapped down.  

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,401

Lower off your own draws or locking carabiners.  I always rappel off if it is the anchor alone.  Just me.

Nate Parker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
Burton Lindquist wrote: Lower off your own draws or locking carabiners.   Always rappel off the anchor alone.

cool.  That is what we have been doing and I will stick to it.

Mike P · · Saint Louis · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 71

I almost always see people lowering at Jackson these days when cleaning routes.

Frankly this seems to be the case most places I've been to in the last couple of years. The prevailing viewpoint seems to have changed significantly. (Maybe this part is just in my head, but the article from American Alpine below seems to roughly coincide with the shift.)
https://americanalpineclub.org/resources-blog/2016/3/15/5

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

I tend to think that lowering is the best option from a safety perspective, and I think that's becoming a mainstream view. Because of that, these days anchors are usually built or replaced with easy to replace hardware to facilitate lowering. However, one should never top rope through fixed hardware, and only the last person in a group should lower from the fixed-gear - use your draws in almost all other circumstances. All of that said, on occasion, rappelling can be a good option. There are very few absolutes in the world (the prior admonition against TR'ing through the anchors notwithstanding), and one should make one's own decision in the field.

Nate Parker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

It seems that lowering is easier, quicker and safer.  I keep hearing more and more about people cleaning and lowering instead of rapping.  I was looking through the guidebook hoping to find the official word from the people that are in the know, but it did not mention it either way.  i have never lowered off an anchor we have always rapped.  I will be headed down to the falls in a couple of weeks and was not sure if i should switch to lowering.

Doug Hemken · · Delta, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,698

It depends on the anchor equipment itself - hooks, eye bolts, chains, and the competence of the person setting up the rope for retreat.  IMHO there shouldn't be a "generally accepted" way to deal with this, because too many things actually vary.  Too much "best practice" and "safety" advice is based on theory, not actual conditions.

Stay safe, obviously.  And don't send up someone who doesn't know how to set things up into a situation where they need to set things up - that violates the golden rule.

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Use your best judgement. The crag sheriff isn't going to roll up on his horse and challenge you to a show down. Ask yourself - can I justify why I am doing one or the other?

Justin Meyer · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2012 · Points: 47

Oddly enough, at Jackson Falls there is a good chance that someone will show up on a horse while you are climbing. Most of the time the riders don't look that different than an old west sheriff and are no doubt carrying. I haven't seen any show downs though.

Ryan Surface · · Kansas City · Joined May 2014 · Points: 438

If you've ever replaced lowering hardware on even just 1 route I think that you get a free pass to lower as you please.

Also, this is sport climbing, lowering should be the standard.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

If you’re climbing 5.12+, rappelling won’t be an option for most routes.

Nate Parker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
Ryan Surface wrote: If you've ever replaced lowering hardware on even just 1 route I think that you get a free pass to lower as you please.

Also, this is sport climbing, lowering should be the standard.

This is a great idea.  I just found the donation link for Jackson falls and donated an anchor.  I will make a habit of donating each year regardless of if i lower or rap.


http://www.ilclimbers.org/Projects/JacksonFalls/index.html
Nate Parker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
Ted Pinson wrote: If you’re climbing 5.12+, rappelling won’t be an option for most routes.

yeah, I am really hoping to put down my first 11 this year.  Last year it took a stab at wild at heart and Captain Crunch but did not get them clean.    

Alexander Stathis · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 657
Ted Pinson wrote: If you’re climbing 5.12+, rappelling won’t be an option for most routes.

You don't need to climb 5.12+ to climb steep routes or routes that traverse a lot. Plenty of wandering easy routes and steep 5.10's out there these days. Lower to clean single pitch sport.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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