I started climbing over a year ago and I'm enjoying it so far , especially that I managed to stay relatively injury free. I will be moving to a larger house and I am looking to add some indoor equipment and was looking at hangboards/ fingerboards.
Since I never used one (unfortunatelly my climbing center is small and doesnt have one), i am looking for some advice. If you were to choose a hangboard, which one would it be and why ? Is there anything that you would add / change ?
I am interested to find out what would must be features a hang board should have ? Do you care for slopers, pinchers,jugs or prefer more pockets & crimps with different depths/ angles ?
I don't train slopers on a hangboard and don't think it's effective if you do. Slopers are more about body position. I also don't think the pinches on hangboards are as effective as using pinch blocks. I prefer wood hangboards so I'd check out the Tension Grindstone and Pro. I have the Pro and love it. I also have the portable Tension hangboard.
Jer
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Jun 11, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2015
· Points: 26
The fancy Trango board has every hold you'd want and it's adjustable side to side. There are a few nice wooden ones available as well and some people prefer the texture of wood. If you are doing a pulley setup (recommended) you don't need a huge variety of hold sizes because you can add or remove weight to change difficulty as needed, so you can probably save by getting a smaller board.
Yes to slopers, pinchers,jugs, pockets & crimps. Train each grip type you want to strengthen and then tailor specifics to focus on your goals. I agree with Slim that hard slopers feel like a waste of time, but imo easier ones for newer climbers are probably useful.