Scarpa Instinct VS or VSR

Hey everyone.

So I've tried on and loved a pair of Instinct VS to use as my bouldering and steep shoe.

The problem is.. I'm really curious about the VSR for a little bit softer version but can't find it anywhere near me and no one is in stock of my size.

Has anyone worn both and if so is it worth me waiting for a pair of VSR to come in stock or will the VS work just as well for me?

For reference I'm about 180 pounds so not a light climber, which a couple of articles mention for the VSR

I own a pair of VSR’s and absolutely love them. I’ve never worn the VS, but I’ve heard that wearing the VSR a half size lower than the VS can make for a better fit due to the softer rubber. I mostly use my VSR’s for indoor climbing as well as bouldering/sport on sandstone, and plan to get a pair of VS’s for more consistent outdoor use. Both shoes complement each other quite well, so if you really love the fit of the VS I’m sure you’ll enjoy the VSR just as much.

Also, the blue looks sweet

I really wanted to try the vsr too.  I have been wearing the vs for 2 years and love them, but wanted a softer shoe.  Ended up with the booster s, instead.  

From what I’ve been able to put together, the vsr is scarpas  “women’s” version of the vs.  That’s why they don’t offer them in average sizes that men wear.  They are lower volume than the vs (generally found in women’s models), and use softer rubber (for lighter people who don’t have enough weight to deform sx edge rubber).

This might all be speculation, but it could explain why scarpa doesn’t make the vsr in the full size range
I’d definitely recommend the vs for your situation.  They are fantastic shoes that hold up very well to regular abuse

Baba Fats wrote
From what I’ve been able to put together, the vsr is scarpas  “women’s” version of the vs.  That’s why they don’t offer them in average sizes that men 

Yeah, it's definitely a little unclear. They definitely do make them in Men's sizes up to 44 or so, I've seen a few pairs at that size, but predominantly seem to stock smaller sizes.

Also unclear how different the sizing is in terms of volume, I've seen some people say the exact same and some say the VSR is slightly lower volume.

Why a softer shoe only makes sense for lighter people I'm not quite sure. 

The shoe  itself isn’t softer, as far as I know.  But they use grip 2 rubber instead of sx edge rubber, which is softer.  Heavier people are more able to deform harder rubber beaches they have more weight pushing down in it.  Lighter people have less weight pushing down on hard rubber, making it harder to mold to the shape of small chips and edges.  

While there’s nothing wrong with heavy people wearing soft rubber (my booster s have grip 2, and my vs’s are resoled with  trax), light climbers would benefit more from softer rubber than really stiff rubber.  At least that’s what I think scarpa is going for 
I guess they finally decided to expand their sizes for the vsr.  A few months ago they weren’t offered in sizes above 38 or so.  That’s part of why I assumed they were women’s versions.  Looks like they do offer them up to 44 now

A friend of mine has both, he said aside from color he didn’t really notice much difference. Sizing was identical for him. They are built off of the same last. Scarpa says they are softer, but I agree that the biggest difference is probably the XS grip2 as opposed to the Xs Edge.

Love the VSRs. Softer more comfortable shoe yet downturned. They smear exceptionally well and edge a lot better than one might think. All the other shoes in my climbing bag are La Sportivas but these have earned their place. I weigh 165 for a bigger guy they might not work as well Two female climbing partners who don’t weigh Much bought them and love them.

I'm curious if anyone has any experience with the drago versus the vsr?  From what I can gather the vsr has more support in the midsole and structure of the shoe but does that translate to a much stiffer shoe?  I like the dragos for indoor climbing and overhung climbing but for tiny feet on more vertical climbs I would like something stiffer.

Pat Schafer wrote: I'm curious if anyone has any experience with the drago versus the vsr?  From what I can gather the vsr has more support in the midsole and structure of the shoe but does that translate to a much stiffer shoe?  I like the dragos for indoor climbing and overhung climbing but for tiny feet on more vertical climbs I would like something stiffer.

I use the VSR and a partner of mine uses the Drago. From what I’ve gathered the fit is very similar between the two, the main difference being that the Drago is notably softer and a bit more downturned

Sam Wilson wrote:

I use the VSR and a partner of mine uses the Drago. From what I’ve gathered the fit is very similar between the two, the main difference being that the Drago is notably softer and a bit more downturned

Okay, that's what I figured would be the case.  I've really been looking for something that would perform as well as my Five Ten HiAngle's that I previously had.  They gave me all the support I needed to stand on micro chips and we're still soft enough for all around climbing.  If the VSR is comparable in stiffness or marginally softer I think they'd be a perfect fit for me.

Pat Schafer wrote:

Okay, that's what I figured would be the case.  I've really been looking for something that would perform as well as my Five Ten HiAngle's that I previously had.  They gave me all the support I needed to stand on micro chips and we're still soft enough for all around climbing.  If the VSR is comparable in stiffness or marginally softer I think they'd be a perfect fit for me.

You're looking at a 1mm flexan support in the entire forefoot of the VSR compared to the drago which has absolutely no stiffening plastic under the toes. 

I've seen a distinct change in stiffness of split sole shoes jumping between 3.5mm and 4mm when resoling. You're getting only 3.5mm of xs grip 2 in the VSR with a split sole design, the hiangle is a full sole of 4mm.

Given all this I think the VSR could be exactly what you're looking for, I'd be interested to hear your thoughts compared to the drago if you get them. I'm debating whether to get another set of testarossas for y next sport shoe (have drago for steep bouldering/gym). 

I'm not sure where you guys are finding VSRs in a size 44 - Looking at Scarpa's website they still only offer up to a 42 (which is the size run from the initial release). 

anna.gutwin wrote: I'm not sure where you guys are finding VSRs in a size 44 - Looking at Scarpa's website they still only offer up to a 42 (which is the size run from the initial release). 

There are a few UK based sites offering 44s. But you're right that the Scarpa site goes up to 42 and none of the US based online stores have above a 42 that I can find.

When I lasted posted about the 44 size, scarpas site did have them up to a 44.  Strange that that would change so often and by so much

http://www.scarpa.net/instinct-vsr.html

Not their official .com site, but looks pretty legit

I have both. The VS were my go to shoe for a while but I ended up with a pair of the Booster S for steeper stuff. I liked the rubber and so when the VSR came out I got a pair. I personally wouldn't size any differently between the VS and VSR. I would say the VSR is slightly softer making it better for certain types of climbing. I still use the VS's for some climbing, but I spend far more time in the VSR's now. Really just depends on what I am doing that day.

Nick Drake wrote:

You're looking at a 1mm flexan support in the entire forefoot of the VSR compared to the drago which has absolutely no stiffening plastic under the toes. 

I've seen a distinct change in stiffness of split sole shoes jumping between 3.5mm and 4mm when resoling. You're getting only 3.5mm of xs grip 2 in the VSR with a split sole design, the hiangle is a full sole of 4mm.

Given all this I think the VSR could be exactly what you're looking for, I'd be interested to hear your thoughts compared to the drago if you get them. I'm debating whether to get another set of testarossas for y next sport shoe (have drago for steep bouldering/gym).

I just reordered a pair of HiAngle's and will likely be getting a pair of VSR'S from my home gym when I get back.  I would like to see how they compare against each other.  I find the drago to be amazing for volume climbing but they felt just too soft for the sharp tiny feet you find on some Devils Lake boulders.

1. I’m I haven’t tried the vsr, but I’ve worn the vs for the last year and just got them resoled.  I would highly the vs for bouldering and climbing outside. I’m 155 with a size 10 and they fit well.  With all the comments on the vsr, those might be my next shoe.  Good luck with your choice and I’d love to hear how it works out for you.

I have owned the VS, have a resoled VS with Grip2, had a VSR, Drago, Chimera, and Furia S.....

With that said the best shoe is by far the Furia S, at least for steep bouldering. Feels like a Dragon, but more comfortable.

The VSR to me was kinda weird.  Not a ton ofter than the VS, but it does have a softer rand rubber so the downturn didn't hold well. They flattened out quite a bit. My VS with Grip 2 didn't have that issue and feel identical. The VSR is supposedly a bit narrower in the top of the foot, but I didn't notice. I wouldn't get the VSR again unless I only wanted 1 pair of shoes and gym climbed. They do smear slightly better.

I use my Instincts basically in Yosemite and smaller edges. I have even used my Dragos there for really sharp stuff and been fine so I feel if you can't hold a micronub on them you gotta work on smearing/smedging. Otherwise I use my Drago for gym/warm-ups, Furia for overhang and steeps/sends, and Chimera for sport stuff. If I could choose 1 pair, however, it would be the Chimera. Best all around shoe on the market.  Stiffer in the forefoot than a Drago especially when tightened, still softer than an Instinct, but with an edge. Lots of pro are using them on Indian Creek splitters, El Cap granite, Lead World cups, and Spanish sport routes.

Karsten WalkerI use my Instincts basically in Yosemite and smaller edges. I have even used my Dragos there for really sharp stuff and been fine so I feel if you can't hold a micronub on them you gotta work on smearing/smedging.

I'm no expert, but climbing on the Quartzite at Devils Lake is a bit different since the rock itself has very little texture.  Mainly working off the small edges that protrude from it.  Seems more logical to me to have a slightly stiffer shoe to weight small edges than try to smear near texture less surface.

Pat Schafer wrote:

I'm no expert, but climbing on the Quartzite at Devils Lake is a bit different since the rock itself has very little texture.  Mainly working off the small edges that protrude from it.  Seems more logical to me to have a slightly stiffer shoe to weight small edges than try to smear near texture less surface.

DL climbs very similar my local sport crag (world wall at little si), it's a metamorphic serpentinite which also makes for small edges with very little texture (especially on the popular routes). The edging power with a little bit of sensitivity in the testarossas made a huge difference for me, climbing the same route with the dragos I end up pumped out of my mind. I just can't weight the foot as much in that soft of a shoe. 

On a lot of granite I actually really like the drago, it smedges very well.

If you're looking for more of an edging platform with some sensitivity did you also consider the mago?

+1 for VSR if you’re looking for a lower volume VS, I just bought them recently.
 I think “softer” may not be the correct term for comparison between the two, even though VS has XS Edge and VSR has XS Grip, they both are almost equally stiff. Loved the VS fit for the wide foot front and low volume heel I have, but there was too much dead space. VSR encloses my foot like a glove, and pretty much all air exits when fully put on. 
Compared to Drago, super stiff. I climbed in that repeatedly and just couldnt fit the shoe to my foot at any size, although I loved the softness. 
Chimera fit my foot with less dead space than the drago (lower volume), and I attribute some of that to laces vs. the drago’s single strap that created an air bubble over my foot. 
Right now I use Oracle for all around and VSR for comps