Best chimney pitches in the US?
|
Stem, squeeze, bridge galore! What are your favorite chimney routes (single pitches / specific pitches on multipitch climbs)? |
|
The Coke Bottle @ Granite Mountain |
|
|
|
^Flaring fun on Castleton!
P2 Honeymoon chimney - just scary enough to keep you honest. Green mountain pinnacle, flatiorns short but fun. I'd imagine Steck Salathe may come up? |
|
|
|
abe r wrote:^Flaring fun on Castleton! Honeymoon chimney for p1 offwidth/squeeze, and p2 chimney. Stellar chimney on a commanding tower! |
|
The Ear. Pitch 18 of the Salathe |
|
Original variation of East Buttress, Middle Cathedral. |
|
Steck Salathe, Yosemite Valley |
|
Corvus Chimney, Texas Canyon, California (5.9). |
|
John Wilder wrote: I did these 10+ years ago and, although fun, they were a bit flaring and filled with pine needles since all of the traffic took the new route. Maybe it's cleaned up since then? Have to second Honeymoon Chimney, as well as a short section on Tunnel Vision and a myriad of routes at Vedauwoo. |
|
Iron Messiah in Zion is pretty chimneytastic. |
|
Chimney Pitch of N Ridge on Steeple Peak in the Wind River Range. Feels like you chimney through the mountain to a nice head wall on the other side |
|
I remember reading in Desert Rock about a Jim Beyer route, something like Zen Warrior Ninja or something like that - after pitches of some heinous aid climbing, the true mental crux comes with a 50-ft, no-pro chimney pitch too wide to stem (as in, you're looking straight down the whole way). Anybody know the name of the climb I'm thinking about? |
|
I think my favorite one I have climbed was Crackerjack. First pitch is a boulder problem followed by easy face climbing with a small roof before the anchor on the first pitch. Pitch 2 starts with an offwidth crack that ends into a big cave. Once in the cave you start the chimney that is wide and gets smaller the higher you go until you wedge yourself through the end and pop out the top of it at the finish. |
|
Dan G0D5H411 wrote: It's been six years since I climbed them, don't remember any pine needles but definitely still flaring. A memorable couple of pitches at the least. |
|
abe r wrote:^Flaring fun on Castleton! Agreed, but it is on The Priest, not Castleton. |
|
I've been wanting to try this one: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105844248/the-spell |
|
Second and third pitches of 'Magnolia Thunderpussy' at Granite Mountain, AZ. |
|
Moab, the priest: Honeymoon chimneys |
|