Scarpa Ribelle Tech out of the box impressions

Haven’t used them and won’t for a while. But a few first impressions.

The Ribelle Tech is wider at the ball of the foot than the Rebel Ultra. I wear a 46 in the Ultra and a 45 or 45.5 in the Ribelle Tech. I think I’ll stay at 45.

The Ribelles flex significantly more than any ice boot I’ve used.

The Ribelle is a very very low top with virtually no ankle support. One set of lace eyelets are above my ankle, and they basically serve to just snug the neoprene-like gaiter around my ankle.

The Grivel G20 does work with the C2N Bail, though it’s a tight fit. This makes them work with the Ribelle. I actually have zero play at the toe of the Ribelle+C2N bail versus my Rebel Ultra+Wire bail that does wiggle ever so slightly. I seriously might use the C2N bail on boots with toe welts. Snuggest toe I’ve seen

A single size 46 Rebel Ultra weighs 925 grams. A single size 45 Ribelle Tech weighs 639 grams.

First impression out of the box: It’s a stiff insulated high top trail running shoe with a heel welt. My house backs up to some big easy gullies that will be my primary use for these.

How much flex is a significant amount of flex?

that guy named seb wrote: How much flex is a significant amount of flex?

Raf at The Alpine Start does a better job showing the difference than I will. Here’s the Rebel Carbon, Ribelle Tech, and Rebel Ultra. For reference, the Rebel Ultra is a pretty flexy boot in my opinion.

http://www.thealpinestart.com/2017/07/31/summer-2017-new-gear-awards/

Do you think you'd be able to run in these, or are they too stiff and bulky?

IMHO, you can run in them, but they are too stiff and bulky for that.  I got a pair a few weeks ago and used them at my local crag to start to get to know them.  I plan on using them this summer in the Canadian Rockies and I think they will be a perfect summer alpine boot. 

I agree. I wouldn’t want to actually do more than shuffle quickly. Not run

Now that a few of you have a summer season on these what's the verdict?  How does the fit compare to some of the other more commonly available boots (Charmoz, Zodiac Tech, LS Trango, etc)?  Thanks!

running in these boots is not great 

Have you tried the in cold weather? I'm wondering how warm they are. Looking to use them in the Colorado mountains this winter.

Not everyone agrees: see https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/mountain_boots/scarpa_ribelle_mountain_tech_od_boot-9971 .  Depends what one understands by "winter," especially how cold it is or isn't, and what type of climbing is involved.  In this regard, the above reviewer says, "In a UK context, winter is where the Ribelle Mountain Tech really stands out...if the route is going to be hard for me and particularly if it contains back to back pitches or significant ice climbing, then I will stick with a big winter boot - they'll feel more secure and make for warmer feet. However if it's a mountaineering style route with small technical sections but mostly moving together or easy ground, then here's where the Ribelles come in. If you're going out to solo some easier mountaneering routes and you'll be constantly moving, these are pretty much the perfect boot!"

Thanks for the replies. I guess the only way to know is try them.

I do plan to be on the move summiting peaks over the winter. No belaying.

Have you tried them Briggs?

Thanks,
Dave

rgold wrote: Not everyone agrees: see https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/mountain_boots/scarpa_ribelle_mountain_tech_od_boot-9971 .  Depends what one understands by "winter," especially how cold it is or isn't, and what type of climbing is involved.  In this regard, the above reviewer says, "In a UK context, winter is where the Ribelle Mountain Tech really stands out...if the route is going to be hard for me and particularly if it contains back to back pitches or significant ice climbing, then I will stick with a big winter boot - they'll feel more secure and make for warmer feet. However if it's a mountaineering style route with small technical sections but mostly moving together or easy ground, then here's where the Ribelles come in. If you're going out to solo some easier mountaneering routes and you'll be constantly moving, these are pretty much the perfect boot!"

Winter in Scotland is more around -5 rather than -20, a Scottish winter boot is generally suitable for tackling 4000+m peaks in the summer. The Ribelle mountain tech's are definitely not winter boots anywhere properly cold.

Think the Ribelles are worth the premium over the Zodiac Techs?  I'm looking for a replacement for the Charmoz and want to go lighter.  I have Nepal Evo Cubes if I want a warmer boot and most of the my winter mountain time is spent in AT boots.  Mostly looking for something for long single days in the Cascades in reasonable temps.  Thanks for the insights!

Brian Abram wrote:
The Ribelles flex significantly more than any ice boot I’ve used.....It’s a stiff insulated high top trail running shoe with a heel welt 

That's because they aren't an ice boot, just like you said it's a 3 season "boot" just like the Salomon X-Alpine Carbon is a "boot" (the laces stop at the same height as a trail runner).

Really the Ribelle OD's only have one other shoe in their category, the X-Alpine Carbon, not the Rebels or Trangos. Well...the Ribelle S OD (which we don't get in the states) is closer to the X-Alpine Carbon since it doesn't have insulation. But I think when the Ribelle OD is compared to more traditional 3 season boots a grain of salt needs to be taken into that comparison. 

Because...

It really just comes down to for the top guys like Ueli and Kilian lightness is more important. For the style of ascents they do because they are getting closer to running needs than boot needs. I'm interested to see what Sportiva is going to come out with to enter into this category that is really only the Ribelle and X-Alpine Carbon

NorCalNomad wrote:

That's because they aren't an ice boot, just like you said it's a 3 season "boot" just like the Salomon X-Alpine Carbon is a "boot" (the laces stop at the same height as a trail runner).

Really the Ribelle OD's only have one other shoe in their category, the X-Alpine Carbon, not the Rebels or Trangos. Well...the Ribelle S OD (which we don't get in the states) is closer to the X-Alpine Carbon since it doesn't have insulation. But I think when the Ribelle OD is compared to more traditional 3 season boots a grain of salt needs to be taken into that comparison. 

Because...

It really just comes down to for the top guys like Ueli and Kilian lightness is more important. For the style of ascents they do because they are getting closer to running needs than boot needs. I'm interested to see what Sportiva is going to come out with to enter into this category that is really only the Ribelle and X-Alpine Carbon

I have to disagree. The Ribelle Tech OD is much closer to an ice boot than to the Salomon X-Alps. Much stiffer soles and with the heel edge better crampon hold. Also they are a lot more insulated. No idea how Kilian was able to do the Colton-MacIntyre in the X-Alps but I don't think he did much leading and the ice probably wasn't too hard.

The Ribelle S OD are apparently slighly softer than the X-Alps but I haven't tried them yet.

While weight is important for moving fast so is the flex of the shoes/boots. For days with just very little frontpointing (no hard ice) but a long approach/descent from/to the valley I like my shoes to flex as much as possible so I take the X-Alps (as long as the crampon needs of the tour require them. otherwise I probably just take trailrunners).
For tours which  previously would have required me taking my stiff flat soled boots because I couldn't get away with the X-Alps I now have the Ribelle Tech and am very happy with them. The slight flex in combination with the rocker sole makes walking in them way better and climbing up to 80° neve or short bits of up to maybe AI3 ice is fine in them.
I also prefer the less ankle restriction for traverses and scabling.

With that being said I really really want a pair of Kilians overboots with the bolt-on crampons! Unfortunately, I don't think we will be able to get anything like that in the foreseeable future. Those in combination with the XA Alpine shoes and maybe the ability to switch the crampon toes between darts and irvis would be as close to perfect as it gets.

Briggs Lazalde wrote:

I have the rebel pro gtx...also a single boot that ueli steck helped design. I'm sure they both handle about the same temps equally..I'm okay in winter while moving below tree line...belaying I get too cold. About to pick up some acrux ars for winter and keep rebel pro gtxs for volcanoes in spring

Hey Briggs,

I read they are supposed to have more insulation than the Rebel Pro GTX. Everything I'm talking about is above treeline 12,000-14,000'.

It will definitely be 'properly cold' as that guy named seb mentioned.

Dave

I've had the Ribelle Tech since July and have used them quite a bit (guiding) in the Alps, Squamish/Joffre, and Cascades this summer and early fall. The Ribelle Tech is in the same category of boot as the Trango Cube. It's lighter and warmer, but just as with the Cube, it's not an ice boot. I found that my Petzl crampons with the strap on toe fit better on the wider toe box of the Ribelle than on Trangos, and I imagine this would be the case for Scarpa boots such as the Zodiac, which has a more low profile and narrow toe box. With the newer versions of Petzl Vasak and Sarkan crampons, there are two options for where the connecting bar fits in the toe plate, and the forward option makes the crampon more rigid, which helped with front pointing in the Ribelles. When I use the Irvis hybrid spikes (with the dyneema connector) the Ribelles have a lot of flex, and would suck to front point with for more than an easy pitch.

My feet stay plenty warm in the Ribelles when moving, and I have had them up to 14,700' breaking trail in boot deep snow on the Matterhorn. My feet were cold standing around teaching crevasse rescue on a rainy day above Squamish, and I wouldn't want to be wearing these in the winter belaying while ice climbing. They will wet out in heavy rain/wet snow, and can take some time to dry out because the internal gaiter can't be opened up like a boot with a tongue.

They seem to be holding up well, though the edge of the toe rand peels up quickly, just 1/16" on the very edge. The rand on the inside edge of the boot is real rubber and shows no wear, but the rand on the outside edge is a synthetic rubber and has some gouges in it from rocks. I wish they had put real rubber all around for durability at some weight cost.

These aren't good for running in, and are a completely different boot than the Soloman X Alpine, which really is a slightly stiff trail running show with a gaiter. The Ribelle is essentially a low top mountain boot, slightly softer and more sole rocker than the Trango Cube, and if you like having ankle support, this isn't the boot for you. 

Patrick Ormond wrote: I've had the Ribelle Tech since July and have used them quite a bit (guiding) in the Alps, Squamish/Joffre, and Cascades this summer and early fall. The Ribelle Tech is in the same category of boot as the Trango Cube. It's lighter and warmer, but just as with the Cube, it's not an ice boot. I found that my Petzl crampons with the strap on toe fit better on the wider toe box of the Ribelle than on Trangos, and I imagine this would be the case for Scarpa boots such as the Zodiac, which has a more low profile and narrow toe box. With the newer versions of Petzl Vasak and Sarkan crampons, there are two options for where the connecting bar fits in the toe plate, and the forward option makes the crampon more rigid, which helped with front pointing in the Ribelles. When I use the Irvis hybrid spikes (with the dyneema connector) the Ribelles have a lot of flex, and would suck to front point with for more than an easy pitch.

My feet stay plenty warm in the Ribelles when moving, and I have had them up to 14,700' breaking trail in boot deep snow on the Matterhorn. My feet were cold standing around teaching crevasse rescue on a rainy day above Squamish, and I wouldn't want to be wearing these in the winter belaying while ice climbing. They will wet out in heavy rain/wet snow, and can take some time to dry out because the internal gaiter can't be opened up like a boot with a tongue.

They seem to be holding up well, though the edge of the toe rand peels up quickly, just 1/16" on the very edge. The rand on the inside edge of the boot is real rubber and shows no wear, but the rand on the outside edge is a synthetic rubber and has some gouges in it from rocks. I wish they had put real rubber all around for durability at some weight cost.

These aren't good for running in, and are a completely different boot than the Soloman X Alpine, which really is a slightly stiff trail running show with a gaiter. The Ribelle is essentially a low top mountain boot, slightly softer and more sole rocker than the Trango Cube, and if you like having ankle support, this isn't the boot for you. 

Thanks Patrick. I tend to run cold, but it sounds like the may be great for a light more nimble boot to get to 12,000'-14,000' here in Colorado. As long as I keep moving.

What was the coldest you used them?

Dave

Dave, it was probably hovering around freezing on top of the M-horn, but with some good wind chill as well. My feet were plenty warm that day, and that was with crampons on. The Ribelles should be good in CO even in the winter if you're keeping moving.

No VB sock, I've never given those a good try. I bet it would up the warmth and keep the boots drier. But I think they'll be a 3 season boot for me and won't need the VB sock. 

How is the rubber on these? Anyone used them as well as the X-alpine?